Hi, the attached pics show my 64 Sovereign, I have been compounding with F9 to date and am nearing the point where I will be working on the topmost panel which runs the full length of the trailer. Ultimately, there will be an aircon. unit, and solar panels on top, along with the replacement roof vents. What I am wondering is whether or not it would be a more economical exercise to replace the entire top panel as opposed to polishing the corrosion out. There would be well over 300 rivets to replace in addition to the panel itself. It is not visible from ground level, and would be even less so once the accessories are fitted. Has anyone traded these options off against each other with a result? Thanks for any help.
Pete.
Hello Pete -- It's quite amazing taking this feat on in New Zealand. More power to you!
Another thing to consider is the current practice of painting the top panel white. White reflects more of the spectrum and absorbs less heat. Members here have done this to older units. Although mine has it I can't tell you the last time I saw it -- nobody can tell if done properly. I don't know if you can see any of this corroded panel if you stand off to the side. A painted top would be easier to maintain with the various items penetrating the roof.
If you decide to go the white route, Kool-Seal makes white "elastometic roof coating" you can apply with a roller. It helps keep the trailer cool, will fill in the spots of corrosion, and deadens sound of rain on the roof. (the last part is important to me, we get rain here that sounds like God has ordered up another 40 day monsoon).
There would be well over 300 rivets to replace in addition to the panel itself. It is not visible from ground level, and would be even less so once the accessories are fitted.
Aside from the large scale of this task -- if you are reasonably weather-tight I would try to avoid replacing the panel. Getting this all sealed again without leaks (okay, they all leak) -- without more leaks ... you know what I mean.
Hi, the attached pics show my 64 Sovereign, I have been compounding with F9 to date and am nearing the point where I will be working on the topmost panel which runs the full length of the trailer. Ultimately, there will be an aircon. unit, and solar panels on top, along with the replacement roof vents. What I am wondering is whether or not it would be a more economical exercise to replace the entire top panel as opposed to polishing the corrosion out. There would be well over 300 rivets to replace in addition to the panel itself. It is not visible from ground level, and would be even less so once the accessories are fitted. Has anyone traded these options off against each other with a result? Thanks for any help.
Pete.
Help fight obesity, try polishing an Airstream!
Pete,
I was (am still) struggling with the same issue. My roof panel is almost as bad as yours.
The sides up to this panel came out great, but the actual roof panel is an eyesore when viewed from straight above, and close up....which brings me to the realization that it really does not matter much, appearance wise.
But just knowing it's up there und ugly bothers me enough to where I have included it in the "things to still do" list. I have decided to paint it white. Only I think I am going to use automotive paint and aluminum primer, instead of the elastomeric material. I have seen this material age on the white trailers, and it seems to age into a greyish yellow with a streaky appearance.
My trailer got pounded by Texas summer rains during a trip in July, relentless for almost 2 weeks. I discovered some leaks around the roof vents. Despite the fact that I double and triple sealed everything with the recommended materials. Now I am glad the panel isn't painted yet. I will have to work on it and remove roof vents to reseal etc. My point is that you might want to make double sure that your roof is waterproof, before investing work into the panel that has all the holes for vents etc.
Thankyou all for your response and helpful and constructive advice. The painting option is starting to sound rather appealling. Preparation-wise (for the paint) would the corrosion have to be removed anyway? Any etching coat? As for the waterproofing, the inside is completely gutted to the frame, I am planning on resealing everything from the inside as per existing, it sounds as though it may not be enough. I would really like to be able to have a waterproof trailer, especially in the condition it has been stripped back to, it seems like an opportunity to correct any design faults, any other ideas or points to look out for regarding waterproofing the shell?
Pete
Thankyou all for your response and helpful and constructive advice. The painting option is starting to sound rather appealling. Preparation-wise (for the paint) would the corrosion have to be removed anyway? Any etching coat? As for the waterproofing, the inside is completely gutted to the frame, I am planning on resealing everything from the inside as per existing, it sounds as though it may not be enough. I would really like to be able to have a waterproof trailer, especially in the condition it has been stripped back to, it seems like an opportunity to correct any design faults, any other ideas or points to look out for regarding waterproofing the shell?
Pete
Hello Pete,
Keep in mind that your trailer is 45yrs old, and that it is very long. It has flexed and twisted for many years, being towed down the road. It might have been abused or stored improperly, who knows.
To reallt get this waterproofed, you will have to do a fair amount of investigating,a nd remove ll the window rames etc in order to be successful. Merely seaming all the seals from the inside does not guarantee a drip free environment. Ask me how I know...been there, done that, am getting dripped on. In my case it seems to be the 3 roof vent openings that cause the trouble, and the front window frame. I must have missed a microscopin spot on teh front window, and how on earth the vents can leak, I don't know. I used gobs of sealant, and made sure everything was level and clean. Well, now I get to do it again. The large rectangular front vent is the worst offender. Might be the only one, and the water might travel to the fantastic vents and drip down. I will have to reseal all three, though, to be sure. The front window should be easy, i will seal it better from the outside without removing it. But to be sure, you might consider removing the windows, or at the very least resealing them all very carefully, while the inner skin is off. Also the lower rivet line where it meets the belly pan. Take a very close look at that and seal it as much as you can from the inside. I used a brushable seam sealer formulated for aluminum, from auto body shop supply.
If you decide to go the white route, Kool-Seal makes white "elastometic roof coating" you can apply with a roller. It helps keep the trailer cool, will fill in the spots of corrosion, and deadens sound of rain on the roof. (the last part is important to me, we get rain here that sounds like God has ordered up another 40 day monsoon).
Can anybody out there testify that this stuff makes any noticible difference in keeping an Airstream cooler in the summer sun?
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I have my own opinion. Don't confuse me with the facts.
Can anybody out there testify that this stuff makes any noticible difference in keeping an Airstream cooler in the summer sun?
Yes. It was a marked improvement on our Argosy,We used it one weekend without the stuff, and the following weekend with the stuff, weekend #2 was about 5 degrees cooler inside. Both weekends hot and sunny. It should make a bigger difference when painting white where it used to be silver.
Can anybody out there testify that this stuff makes any noticible difference in keeping an Airstream cooler in the summer sun?
Therre is a comparison test somewhere in the belly of the forums, done by InlandRV,I believe, on which paint color stays coolest. Relentless searching might reveal this test.
Yikes, now I'm really worried, well, concerned enough to have a coffee and a bit of a ponder at least. I thought replacing the vents anew might have bypassed any problems around that area, but clearly, even with due diligence, it sounds as though I will have to be extra careful. There are some obvious sites for leaks around the bottom of the windows that I can see will need attention. I find it hard to believe that it was never expected to leak at all with that sort of method of construction, the way the laps of some of the sheets are running. Did they ever not leak? I guess all I can do is take all your helpful advice and do my best and test it with a high pressure water blaster before lining the interior. Phew! what a mission!
Pete
If you use the Kool-Seal, I didn't do anything but make sure the surface was clean and dry. If you are going to use regular (automotive-type) paint, the aluminum will need to be prepped. Where the area you are considering treating is located, I would not worry about filling in area of corrosion, unless there are holes in the roof. It doesn't look like there are from your photos.
Yikes, now I'm really worried, well, concerned enough to have a coffee and a bit of a ponder at least. I thought replacing the vents anew might have bypassed any problems around that area, but clearly, even with due diligence, it sounds as though I will have to be extra careful. There are some obvious sites for leaks around the bottom of the windows that I can see will need attention. I find it hard to believe that it was never expected to leak at all with that sort of method of construction, the way the laps of some of the sheets are running. Did they ever not leak? I guess all I can do is take all your helpful advice and do my best and test it with a high pressure water blaster before lining the interior. Phew! what a mission!
Pete
I am not sure if high pressure is necessary. High volume rain was more like when I experienced the leaks. Lots of water or less standing on the roof panel and running down the sides.
High pressure/low volume might not work too well for this purpose. I have never seen a leak when I take the trailer to a coin car wash with the high pressure hose.
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