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Old 10-21-2011, 09:30 AM   #1
ELKAY12
 
1974 25' Tradewind
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Polish??

thinking about polishing my 1974 31ft Sovereign / any tips / i have looked up vintage trailer supply and it looks like they have all the stuff i would need / just looking a few helpful suggestion that might help me go ahead and start this project / i have also looked at all the other post listed on this / looks like a lot of work but worth it
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:56 AM   #2
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looks like a lot of work but worth it
It is!

Also check out the Perfect Polish website. Lots of good info there...

Shari
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:06 AM   #3
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order i think i should go using nuvite

1st - strip (Removall 220)
2nd - polish (Nuvite F7)
3rd - polish (Nuvite C)
4th - polish (Nuvite S)

?? is there anywhere out there to get a deal on one of these cyclone polishers
vintage trailer supply says theres are the lowest price polisher 350 and polisher with kit 450
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:18 PM   #4
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Keep a lookout on Ebay and maybe even Amazon. Check with KeyAir, who has an Airstream 345 motorhome. Noticed in his posts here that he bought the Cyclone Polisher used. Thinking it was on Ebay, but wouldn't swear to it. Maybe even try Craigslist for the Cyclone. Was told yesterday that I shouldn't used a rotating polisher, as it would leave 'swirl' marks, that either the Cyclone or a Random Orbital polisher is the only way to go. Found a Random Orbital at Harbor Freight for $20. I'll be there when they open tomorrow, lol
Thanks, Derek
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:44 PM   #5
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?? is there anywhere out there to get a deal on one of these cyclone polishers
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Keep a lookout on Ebay and maybe even Amazon. ...he bought the Cyclone Polisher used. ...Maybe even try Craigslist for the Cyclone.
Search both Craig's List & eBay...but it's a CYCLO Model 5 polisher, not cyclone...they can also be found with the Craftsman label. There are several on eBay right now...some new and a couple of used ones.

We've also found them in a pawn shop here in town that specializes in really old tools. Twice, we've found them there for only $100. Them get the rest of the parts from the Perfect Polish or VTS websites.

Shari
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:12 PM   #6
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Hi Everyone

After doing a few of Polish jobs I would suggest not using the Cyclo polisher. Using a speed wheel has proven time and time again to be an easier approach to all the stages using Nuvite. We have used this product many times and love it.

If your Coach is really Tarnished try starting with F9 moving to G6 and then C and S stages. Just a thought if it is really rough. Have fun watching the transformation and don't forget to share the results with a picture...
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:19 PM   #7
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What's a speed wheel?
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:10 PM   #8
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What's F9 and G6? That sounds like a BINGO game.

What's a C and S stage?
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
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What's F9 and G6? That sounds like a BINGO game.

What's a C and S stage?
Grades of Nuvite polish...check out the Perfect Polish link in Post #2.

BTW, the Cyclo polisher is only used for the final stages of polishing to get the swirls out and achieve that 'mirror finish'. An oxidized trailer needs to be compounded first to remove the oxidation & scratches. Using a Cyclo Polisher to do that is not effective.

Shari

<on edit> The Perfect Polish website link in Post #2 seems to be down at the moment...check out these VTS Polishing Advice or Perfect Polish Quick Guide instead, same basic information.
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:53 PM   #10
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What's a speed wheel?

This guy sands first, then used an airway wheel on edge. Which way is better?



I read where one guy here used a black bar and an airway wheel. His trailer looked nice. I don't want to polish. I want to strip the clearcoat and remove the oxidation at the top location. Which is the best method? What RMP buffer?
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock View Post
What's a speed wheel?

This guy sands first, then used an airway wheel on edge. Which way is better?



I read where one guy here used a black bar and an airway wheel. His trailer looked nice. I don't want to polish. I want to strip the clearcoat and remove the oxidation at the top location. Which is the best method? What RMP buffer?
That is like what I did.. 3000rpm dewalt buffer with 10" airway treated wheels black bar / white bar

http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworking-polishers-dw849.aspx


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Old 10-26-2011, 05:51 PM   #12
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That is like what I did.. 3000rpm dewalt buffer with 10" airway treated wheels black bar / white bar

DWP849 7" / 9" Variable Speed Polisher | DEWALT Tools
You might be my guy!

Did you do a post on how you did it?

Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:53 PM   #13
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Anybody do the 400 and 600 grit sanding?
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:53 PM   #14
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You might be my guy!

Did you do a post on how you did it?

Thanks!

Yes...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...con-81822.html


.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:55 PM   #15
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Anybody do the 400 and 600 grit sanding?

Yep had to do that on the endcaps as they were seriously corroded

Took a looooong time to polish out where I had sanded

but It was much faster than trying to polish out the corrosion.

Used a dewalt random orbital sander and hook and loop sanding discs
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:11 PM   #16
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I see you bought three 3# bars of black and white compound. Did you use them all up?

Thanks for the answer on the sanding!
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:20 PM   #17
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I see you bought three 3# bars of black and white compound. Did you use them all up?

Thanks for the answer on the sanding!
I used all the black, infact if you have a really bad spot if you touch the black bar to the back side of the wheel as it is spinning it will work through the scratch really quickly.

The white I had a little left but Im sure I will use it doing touchups.

I have an unopened NuviteS for when everything is done Im going to try out.

I did not post it but I had to reorder a 10" airway wheel as I wore the others down to the cardboard center hub.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:27 PM   #18
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Do yourself a favor and buy a few of these at Lowes and use a fresh one everyday


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Old 10-26-2011, 06:43 PM   #19
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FYI.... I strongly suggest that you do not sand your Alclad Aluminum Skin before polishing!!! However if you must I would start with 500 grit...750 grit... 1000 grit and then 1500 grit. It you uses dark grey bar you can skip the 1500 grit if you start with red bar then uses the 1500 grit. I find that the 1500 grit with red bar gets the best result! I find that the grey bar tends to leave strange groves that will not get taken out!
If you can get away with 750 grit to start with then go that way rather than 500 grit!

I am also finding that green bar seams to work on brand new Alclad the red bar seams to be too aggressive and I am getting a better result with the green.

One last note that seams to always be missing from polishing post is to clean...clean...clean... between each step! The cleaner you can get the aluminum (get the black off) the better the end result is!

Hope that helps... Good luck... and happy shinning!
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:46 PM   #20
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I used all the black, infact if you have a really bad spot if you touch the black bar to the back side of the wheel as it is spinning it will work through the scratch really quickly.
What the . . . ? Did you hold the bar in your teeth? You held that 3,000 rpm polisher with a 10" wheel with one hand, balanced on a rib, and fed it stick on the fly? Holy cow!

I'm impressed!

:-)
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