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Old 03-16-2008, 07:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman

while a/s may recommend the walb' products for older trailers,
they DO NOT for newer than 99.
Hmmmm...I have a 2002 trailer and Airstream recommended Walburnizer to me. I have been using it for years with no problems.
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Old 03-16-2008, 08:40 PM   #30
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where is that beat the horse dead emoticon?

Quote:
Originally Posted by yukionna
... Airstream recommended Walburnizer to me....
is that a person, place or thing?

what is in your owners manual?

and what is noted on their website?

Airstream, Inc :: FAQ

see misc q/a above...

my point is YOU can decide what is a more official recommendation...

-their own printed materials, the owners manual, website and warranty boss...

-or what someone at the dealership or answering a phone suggests?

really i'm happy u like walb', i'd be glad to send you my 2 quarts!

cheers
2air'
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Old 03-16-2008, 10:52 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
where is that beat the horse dead emoticon?
Don't need it...its already there -- to err is human!
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:23 AM   #32
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Is Walbnerize the best?

2air and others,

Airstream updated their advice to effectively rule out the Walbernize Cleaner Polish & Glaze with its abrasive. Good move.

I'm sure there are many good non-abrasive auto waxes, including Walbernize RV Superseal. Even for older plasticoats, I think that products other than Walbernize RV Superseal would be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
now i've got 2 questions for YOU vintageRV...

-do you stock any version of the older plasticoat finish?

-and if so WHO MAKES IT?

cheers
We don't carry the older plasticoat finish, but I know a lot of our customers are curious about it. I don't know who makes it but a few years ago you could buy it from Airstream dealers. Might still be true.

Even the recoaters who do it all the time will the Airstream-provided product only warranty their work for one or two years. It's a problem and more work needs to be done on it.

When you say "older," by the way, there are a few different formulas through the years. My experience is that the 1970s plasticoat was probably the best in terms of longevity. But from what I was told those older lacquer coats would not be approved today because of the chemicals used in them. I know of at least one re-coater who makes his own homebrew in a barrel in his shop. But I don't know if I'd recomend that!

We've been experimenting a little with a new product that might work over time, but haven't been able to test it on a trailer over time, yet. I'm probably going to use my own 1956 Caravanner as an experiment starting this fall after I polish it to a high shine.
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:48 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
where is that beat the horse dead emoticon?




cheers
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Old 03-17-2008, 10:04 AM   #34
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Walbernize

Walbernize Super Seal, is as popular today as it ever was.

We sell 300 to 400 quarts, every year.

Andy
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Old 03-17-2008, 11:53 AM   #35
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As part of pre delivery prep our local dealer uses Walbernize Super Seal on every trailer he sells. The biggest concern I have regarding waxing the trailer is the abrasives that many popular waxes have in them. I'm no authority on waxes and I'm sure there are some good ones out there, you aren't going to hurt the Alcoa finish with Super Seal.

Jack
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Old 03-17-2008, 03:18 PM   #36
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a quality automotive wax/sealant will have ZERO or near zero abrasives...

i've found NO written/printed recommendation from alcoa or a/s related to using walb products for the modern clearcoated skin.

the notation in post #28 is from a factory employee who posts here.

again DIRECTLY from the a/s owners manual...
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After cleaning and drying, a good grade of nonabrasive automotive paste or liquid wax will increase the life of the finish,
especially in coastal areas where the finish is exposed to salt air or in polluted industrial areas.

It will also protect the shell from minor scratches and make subsequent cleaning easier.

It is important to remove sap, gum, resin, asphalt, etc. as soon as possible after they appear by washing and waxing.
Sunlight and time will bake-harden these materials making them almost impossible to remove without heavy buffing.
If a substance is found on the coating that cannot be removed by normal washing procedures,
Airstream recommends using DX 330 Acryli-Clean made by PPG Industries.
Follow all directions and warnings on the product container.
Acryli-Clean should be used by trained personnel only, using the proper equipment under controlled conditions.
Use the Acryli-Clean as sparingly as possible to remove glue, tar, and other similar substance.
Rinse with cool water immediately after use.

To keep your trailer looking new, paint the “A’ frame, LPG tanks, and rear frame periodically.
The Limited option includes gold plated medallions. Use mild soap and water on a soft cotton cloth to clean.
Gold is a soft metal and will scratch,
If that doesn’t not work, use a mild metal polish such as PEAK METAL POLISH applying lightly with a clean soft cotton cloth.

It is recommended that the caulking and sealant used in external seams and joints such as end shell segments
and around window frames, light bezels, beltline and rub rail molding, etc. be checked regularly.
If this material has dried out and become cracked or checked, or if a portion has fallen out,
it should be replaced with fresh material to prevent possible rain leaks.
Caulking and sealing material is available from your Airstream dealer.
Precautions should be taken to prevent excessive sealant from getting on the coated surfaces.
Remove excessive sealant before it cures using DX 330 Acryli-Clean made by PPG Industries as explained above...

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NOWHERE do they include the term walbernize...

it is a cleaner, POLISH, and glaze, NOT a wax.

it does and will produce fine lines, swirl marks IN the alcoa clearcoat.

for a 'one-product-does-a-little-of-everything-but-nothing-very-good' it fits some owners needs.

i looked closely at your st louis dealer prep'd units at the rv show last week...

THEY ALL LOOKED LIKE CRAP. indoors, clean, dressed for the party and every one of them covered with fine scratches...

they also had corrosion ('08) on many of the aluminum bits, so walb' doesn't seem to help with that issue either...

any long exchange on these cosmetics, becomes like tires, oil, religion and so on. along with some sales pitches.

IF ya wanna wax a new unit go back and read the 'how to' in post #26 it's a good showntell too!

or scan some of these...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/481374-post8.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ing-35952.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...its-36047.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eam-23641.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...wax-32816.html

but hey, the horse is dead, so who cares how ya dress it...

cheers
2air'

Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageRV
... My experience is that the 1970s plasticoat was probably the best in terms of longevity. But from what I was told those older lacquer coats would not be approved today because of the chemicals used in them...
this seems to be true, steve and it's good to see a friendly vendor with products folks want, posting here...

i really like the adverts in a/s life from you guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by doorgunner
enjoy the beating
YEAH! that's the one 'gunner, now where is that 'poke it with a stick emoticon?
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:43 PM   #37
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Here's a silly question, maybe. I just got my '03 22' International Airstream and want to clean it. Do people get up on top of their units when washing and polishing? With ladders? Where is it safe to put your weight when on top? Are there people who will do this for you in Northern California? Thanx!
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefle View Post
Here's a silly question, maybe. I just got my '03 22' International Airstream and want to clean it. Do people get up on top of their units when washing and polishing? With ladders? Where is it safe to put your weight when on top?...
hi stephani and welcome to the forums...

VERY COOL that u'd find a relevant thread to post your question/s into...
__________

one CAN get topside with ladders,

and providing your weight is KEPT OFF the end caps...

one can navigate round ON THE RIVET LINES (that's where the ribs are)

just stay OFF the end caps.

washing means soap/suds and SLICKERINESS, so again be careful

it' might b best to wash/dry via a ladder and long handle...

then AFTER DRY attempt climbing as needed.

here's a picture of some of the process (see ~ posts #182-188)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f396...tml#post405596

Quote:
Originally Posted by stefle View Post
...Are there people who will do this for you in Northern California?...i
well SURE there r...

and they're called illegal a....assistants, yeah assistants!



seriously, many detail shops will DO a trailer,

in fact some MOBILE detailers will come 2 the trayla...

but wherez the fun in that?
_________

with a 7-8 year old stream it's a really good idea to INSPECT the sealants on the top...

around EVERYTHING that's got a hole/cut out or other reason 4 a pile of goop.

these sealants WILL eventually need to be replaced to stave off leaks.

and i'm SURE u can find some really good threads on THAT TOPIC too..

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:55 PM   #39
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I wash my roof with a long telescoping brush (Walmart, Target etc.) which attaches to the hose. I stand on a ladder and can reach across the roof. I do not attempt to dry the roof, only the sides of the trailer.

Occasionally it builds up dirt deposits which won't come off with the telescoping brush. I get on roof and clean it by hand. I usually time that job with other jobs which take me on the roof. Such as replacing the roof vent covers, AC shroud, skylight, sealants, etc. When on roof do not step on the end caps.

With that treatment, the roof looks decent when viewed from second story window. My main point of cleaning the roof is to keep dirt deposits from running down the side of the trailer in dew or light rain. Also living in a hot climate I want the roof to be as clean and white as possible.
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:35 PM   #40
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Washing with a ladder, long handle brush... and a flamingo

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
hi stephani and welcome to the forums...

VERY COOL that u'd find a relevant thread to post your question/s into...
__________

one CAN get topside with ladders,

and providing your weight is KEPT OFF the end caps...

one can navigate round ON THE RIVET LINES (that's where the ribs are)

just stay OFF the end caps.

washing means soap/suds and SLICKERINESS, so again be careful

it' might b best to wash/dry via a ladder and long handle...

then AFTER DRY attempt climbing as needed.

here's a picture of some of the process (see ~ posts #182-188)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f396...tml#post405596



well SURE there r...

and they're called illegal a....assistants, yeah assistants!



seriously, many detail shops will DO a trailer,

in fact some MOBILE detailers will come 2 the trayla...

but wherez the fun in that?
_________

with a 7-8 year old stream it's a really good idea to INSPECT the sealants on the top...

around EVERYTHING that's got a hole/cut out or other reason 4 a pile of goop.

these sealants WILL eventually need to be replaced to stave off leaks.

and i'm SURE u can find some really good threads on THAT TOPIC too..

cheers
2air'
Hi Stephani,

Ditto what 2air' said...

Especially about using a ladder and long handle (brush).

Of course, an overseeing flamingo couldn't hurt!

More here: Wash, wax and treat
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