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Old 04-22-2010, 03:20 PM   #1
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Ok To Use Buffer With Walbernize?

Although I am not sure it is the end all/be all of waxes, I am going to go the official Airstream route on my first go round of waxing my 1999 Safari. I'm tempted to use my normal Mothers Liquid wax that I like a lot (I know everyone has their fav). But I want to be on official Airstream Fanboy and use the Wally wax.

My question is, can I apply it with my Porter Cable buffer as I do the Mothers on my other vehicles and my SOB? Once you apply wax with a buffer I don't think you would ever want to go back. Also, is it ok to use any type of (I guess mild) polishing compound? Or just stick with the Walbernize? I want to be careful to protect the 90% of the clearcoat/plasticoat that is still in good shape. BTW I would plan on using a mild polishing pad, nothing aggressive.

Thanks
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:09 PM   #2
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soyboy

points 2 consider...

1. WHICH w'bern product?

2. old style plastikote or new style alcoa clear coat?

plastikote is SOFT.

clearcoat is HARD.

w'bern has mild abrasives IN the product and cleaning agents along with the wax/sealant.

i would not use EITHER w'bern with a PC and then only with a NON abrasive (wax) pad.
___________

you've seen some of the threads on these issues and product choices?

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:13 PM   #3
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Walbernize is about as easy-on/easy-off as you are ever going to find - it looks great - no reason to even think about a buffer. The only issue with Walbernize is its longevity - you will want to apply it at least a couple of times each season.

You may want to consider another product, at least for the front end - Rejex is not a wax - but has a very deep lustre which looks just as good as Walbernize - but its real bonus is the ease of taking bugs off - I'm not going to say you just rinse them off - but removing them is a heck of a lot easier than any other product. Also - it is longer lasting than Walbernize.

RejeX: Nothing Sticks but the Shine!



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Old 04-22-2010, 06:32 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. 2Air, oh yeah I've read the threads, but like I was saying in my post I thought I would start with the "official" wax and see how it does. I'm not sure about you answer (look at your post) are you saying it is ok to buff with a non-agressive pad? I have a number of different types of Lake Country pads for the PC, from very mild to wild. I guess I will do it by hand, no big deal if it goes on / off easy. but for a '99 built in '98 with the old style plasticoat (or what ever it is) what would you recommend? BTW I got the RV Super Seal as I believe that was the one that was recommended for the old style finish.

I have read about the RejeX before, perhaps I'll check it out, could have used in on my old Jayco, that was like dragging a billboard down the highway!
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:24 PM   #5
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LEAST abrasive pad (wax/sealant grade) if applying with a DA

according to the w/bern website...

permaguard or cleaner/polish/glaze can be applied with a buffer.

superseal instructions do not mention using a buffer.

this stuff is very watery (solventy) , it's basically a wipe on/off soup.

the foam pad would need to be saturated with liquid

and would be likely fly off the pad unless rpm is very slow.

again plastikote is SOFT. and at 10+ years, it's OLD.

any spray on vinyl/trim finish product might do as much good.

otoh, have at it, take pics and showntell.

cheers
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:23 PM   #6
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Thanks 2air. Sounds like I will stick with hand application!
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:52 PM   #7
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I am glad that you asked this question. I use a Porter Cable and a product called "Zaino" on my car. I have been getting stunning results with this combo, and have been considering using it on the Airstream. I am going to try the Walbernize I bought though, its actually cheaper. I was under the impression that an orbital buffer like the PC would be totally safe to use on ANY metal surface. I can see a standard buffer being a no-no, but a PC is an orbital buffer, has a very soft touch, and the whole point is that the surface is in constant passive motion and doesnt generate the heat that a standard buffer would. It sort of leads me to believe that the posters here are not familiar with the PC. I am, and have used it for years. I am going to test this as I do not believe that it will harm the coating. I think reasonable care should still apply, but being familiar with the PC I dont see how you could hurt the coating unless you really tried to deliberately harm it. In my experience using the PC I finish in way less time, and I am more likely to finish the job . The wax tends to be more evenly distributed, and you can easily do multiple coats in a day. In addition, you can buff to a super glossy shine with out having to worry about burning clearcoat and paint. I have used this tool on the Gelcoat of my boat numerous times with stunning results. Is this clear coat really that sensitive?
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:38 PM   #8
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Tropic:

Oh yeah, I am familiar with Zaino, most folks consider it the best in the business. I have flirted with using it for a number of years! I don't think it is worth the cost thought unless you are putting it on a vehicle/trailer that has a really nice finish. But maybe I am wrong about that.....way did you get me thinking about spending the bucks on it again, I had put it out of my mind!

I use the PC on my SOB and it works great in the fiberglass sides. It just makes such quick work of it I can do in in no time, same with the car and truck. Plus I have the velcro head and can switch pads and easily move from compound to wax each. That said, I do want to be careful with the plasticoat. I think with your newer trailer with the Alcoa finish you should be in good shape using a buffer. I do worry a bit about the older finish on mine. I might give it a try up on the end caps where it is pealing anyway.

I would love to here how the trailer turns out with the Zaino.
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TropicGuy View Post
I am glad that you asked this question. I use a Porter Cable and a product called "Zaino" on my car. I have been getting stunning results with this combo, and have been considering using it on the Airstream...
hi 'guy

the question soyboy asked doesn't apply 2 your trailer.

07s have CLEARCOAT not plastikote.

the CLEARCOAT can be made beautiful just like an AUTO finish.

so if you like the Z' products, yes use them on the stream.

w'bern has ABRASIVES in it, mild as they are it can HAZE or add fine scratches 2 the clearcoat.

your unit can be treated by...

1. washing to remove surface stuff...
2. clay or solvents to remove BONDED contaminants...
3. polish/glaze for any spots with fine scratches...
4. then protected with ANY QUALITY wax or sealant.

there are other useful thread on these issues (also read the links inside) here....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eam-23641.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ize-31480.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...lse-21353.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...oat-18760.html

these threads also deal specifically with the da issue and speciality auto wax/polish for the stream...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...wax-32816.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...tch-37735.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eam-23641.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...its-36047.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ing-35952.html

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:57 PM   #10
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soyboy...

the easiest method for using the pink soup (w'bern) is this....

1. cut a cotton diaper into 4 quarters...
2. shake the bottle...
3. pour 4-6 oz in a shallow plastic basin
4. soak 1 section of diaper, squeeze JUST enough 2 not drip.
5. mop the stream surface with the wet cloth....
6. GENTLY working any areas with crud stuck to the plastikote
7. REload the diaper as needed and continue.
8. stop after about 25 sq feet (5 ft wide panels)...
9. wipe OFF the dried residue with cotton or microfiber
10. use a NEW quarter of diaper and REpour the dish as needed.
_________

a microfiber towel cut in quarters might be ok, but a sponge applicator will get DIRTY on surface and become abrasive.

by disposing of the 'applicator' occasionally, the abrasive/crud is avoided.

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:08 PM   #11
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Awesome info 2air, much appreciated!
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