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Old 04-24-2014, 06:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by putback View Post
Some things I learned on our '64. The remaining clear coat had a texture like shark skin, very grainy. Buffing with edge wheels or disc pads was hopeless even with very coarse bar compound. I learned here on the forums you have to remove the clear coat with stripper before you can do much of anything. I tried the most recommended stripper at that time, Removall 220. That made a serious difference, worked great and EASY, took off everything and did not harm the aluminum. 1 gal did the whole 22 ft. A similarity between yours and mine. I coated a section with removal and was called away for a day. When I returned the section had dried and was exactly as you describe yours and hard as concrete. A re app took care of it. Any chance someone started to strip yours?


Anything is possible......I really don't know a lot about the history of this trailer. I bought it from a friend who only owned it for about a year. He pulled it off a storage lot in Rapid City, SD, and the lot was sitting right near the alleged "concrete plant". Another member suggested in a prior post above that I should try the stripper again, but as was mentioned, it is hot here in Tucson already and the stripper dries fast. I need some shade or a late evening to really go at it and see if I have any luck. Thanks for your input.
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:25 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Melody Ranch View Post
Aluminum brightener..available at paint stores, .which is a form of muriatic acid. Will not ruin the skin and is probably what you should use.

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Originally Posted by Valacidor View Post
Try a little Lime Away in an inconspicuous spot, ive used it to remove concrete, grout, and mortar of of everything including aluminum window frames, fiberglass, auto paint and tile.
Another product is CLR, don't know if it hurts AL though.
TomJ

Thanks for both of these suggestions. I've not heard of Aluminum brightner, but will do some research.
I actually thought about Lime Away and I will take your suggestion and give it a try.

I tried WD-40, as earlier suggested but did not see any benefit with that.
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:26 PM   #17
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Did you try a pressure washer? Maybe with a low setting?
Cliff
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:53 PM   #18
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Just to give a different response than everyone else, I kinda dig it!

Of course, in real life I'd want to clean it up (as you do) ...but gosh, you wouldn't even need to lock that thing when you go camping - who'd think there'd be anything of value inside?
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:42 PM   #19
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Just to give a different response than everyone else, I kinda dig it!

Of course, in real life I'd want to clean it up (as you do) ...but gosh, you wouldn't even need to lock that thing when you go camping - who'd think there'd be anything of value inside?


There is a certain level of "beauty" to the thing...and it's about the same age as me and I'm a little beat up too. The interior is quite nice and makes up for the "blemishes" on the outside. So, yes, if it had to stay the way it is, I would still love it, just as a parent loves his/her homely child.'


Thanks for your perspective. I appreciate it.
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:07 AM   #20
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Aluminum brightener won't Touch this. I have used it many times. If wet sanding works,, continue and go up in grade as you progress. Work on only one section at a time and perfect your technique. Start with a grade of 500 or higher
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:51 AM   #21
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I wondered if the conc (or more likely, just portland cement) is wedded to the clear coat, if you can remove the clear coat the cement will come with it? Or, has the cement bonded in some ugly way with the aluminum? I was thinking Muriatic acid at first because it dissolves the cement, and maybe there is something else that would break the chemical bond. I found this Cement Remover

good luck
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:02 PM   #22
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Don't have any methods for you to try but I think it would be a good candidate for a professional paint job.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:27 PM   #23
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Aluminum brightener won't Touch this. I have used it many times. If wet sanding works,, continue and go up in grade as you progress. Work on only one section at a time and perfect your technique. Start with a grade of 500 or higher


After talking to someone local who has done a couple Airstream refinishing jobs and trying a bunch of different "magic potions", I am going to concur with your statement, ALANSD. The guy I spoke to did suggest that I try using Scotch Brite pads and see if they are aggressive enough. If not, then I will continue with the sand paper, which actually is working, although very labor intensive (I feel like I will just have one extra big step in this process before I can actually "polish"). I am bound and determined to bring this thing back to life and to not have to paint it. Stay tuned for more reports as I trudge the road of happy stripping. Thanks everyone for your research and suggestions. I appreciate it.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:29 PM   #24
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I wondered if the conc (or more likely, just portland cement) is wedded to the clear coat, if you can remove the clear coat the cement will come with it? Or, has the cement bonded in some ugly way with the aluminum? I was thinking Muriatic acid at first because it dissolves the cement, and maybe there is something else that would break the chemical bond. I found this Cement Remover

good luck


Thanks. Another person also suggested this stuff......I may try it!
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:31 PM   #25
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Don't have any methods for you to try but I think it would be a good candidate for a professional paint job.


Only after I have exhausted every other avenue!! I'm making progress with the sanding technique. It's good upper body exercise for me, too.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:51 PM   #26
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In a former life (25 years ago) I worked in a facility that made fuel rods for nuclear reactors. The rods were aluminum tubes that contained uranium inside. Think of a sausage where the the thin aluminum acted as the casing. The thickness of this casing was on the order of 0.050". These rods were cleaned in sequence using dip tanks of caustic (NaOH) and nitric acid. While hydrochloric will definitely etch the concrete, it might be a little aggressive on the aluminum. Nitric (pKa = -1.64) is a weaker acid than hydrochloric (pKa = -6.3). I believe anodizers clean with sulfuric (pKa = -3), which is somewhere between the two. I would research metal fabricators/cleaners as there is huge industry related to aluminum cleaning.
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Old 04-25-2014, 07:40 PM   #27
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Did you try a pressure washer? Maybe with a low setting?
Cliff
I like this idea. I hate the idea of running a polisher that would swirl concrete particles. Get them off before polishing -- preferably with fewer chemicals!
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Old 04-25-2014, 07:50 PM   #28
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In a former life (25 years ago) I worked in a facility that made fuel rods for nuclear reactors. The rods were aluminum tubes that contained uranium inside. Think of a sausage where the the thin aluminum acted as the casing. The thickness of this casing was on the order of 0.050". These rods were cleaned in sequence using dip tanks of caustic (NaOH) and nitric acid. While hydrochloric will definitely etch the concrete, it might be a little aggressive on the aluminum. Nitric (pKa = -1.64) is a weaker acid than hydrochloric (pKa = -6.3). I believe anodizers clean with sulfuric (pKa = -3), which is somewhere between the two. I would research metal fabricators/cleaners as there is huge industry related to aluminum cleaning.
Isn't Aluminum Nitrate a passivation technique -- translation -- a PITA to polish off?
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