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Old 02-08-2003, 08:46 PM   #29
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1957 22' Flying Cloud
1971 31' Sovereign
1976 29' Ambassador
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My father was right-you learn something every day!
Today I refined my rouge technique by stepping up to a 6" tight stitched buff on my 3200 rpm drill.I'm next going to gang 2 buffs together).I switched to the white rouge stick instead of tripoli (brown).For those not familiar with buffing compounds,they are like grades of sandpaper-different amounts of abrasive for different results.For non ferrous metals like aluminum the 3 are (in order of cutting ability)tripoli,white and jewellers.The tripoli works great but leaves scratches which you then have to go over to remove with the white.Today I moved up to the white for my first cut and found it gave good results and a shine that can be easily brought to a 8-10 with minimum work on the Cyclo or a softer buff and jewellers.Maybe the Flitz would work as a final too just to reduce the swirls.What took me 4 hours before is down to an hour for the large lower endcap segment.One nore thing -the buff needs regular cleaning against a sharp edge to remove the caked up material you are taking off.At a certain point the buildup leaves scratches .
I"m still looking for the S.S.to try it out-18 feet to go!
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"If aluminum isn't magnetic- why am I so attracted to to it?"
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Old 02-08-2003, 10:31 PM   #30
 
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If you're going to use rouge sticks- the ones that are cheap and work great are from a company in Oregon called Sattex, and they have all the grades, and pads as well. www.sattex.com
Call them and ask for Karlene if you want to buy some quantity, or she'll tell you where to get it from locally.
The other cool trick I heard about and want to try is to take a cotton flap type wheel- like you use on a bench grinder, and space it properly on a hand grinder, and then use only the edge. Its supposed to leave no scratches.
I clean off my pads every 3-4 minutes- any more than that and you start making more problems than good.
LOVE THAT BLACK MUD, DON'T YA?
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Old 02-09-2003, 10:02 AM   #31
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Thumbs up

That's the technique I'm using -but's it's on a drill .No scratches when you use the finer rouges and clean often.
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"If aluminum isn't magnetic- why am I so attracted to to it?"
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Old 02-14-2003, 09:55 PM   #32
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TAKING NOTES!
Well my Wife just inherited her dads 59. We pick it up tomorrow and I see it for the first time ever and she hasn't seen it in 12-15 years.
That puts us pre clear coat according to what I have read so a big savings there. As far as my wife knows it has never been pollish since her dad owned it. He has had it since the late 60's before she was born. I have been showing her pictures of all the polished ones and she really likes it and does want to get a good shine out of the old girl.
Great information and I will be taking notes on what makes the job a little easier.
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Old 02-15-2003, 12:28 AM   #33
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1957 22' Flying Cloud
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Malibu , California
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Welcome to the "elbow grease club"!
Actually I'm of the opinion that having a clearcoat saxed me a lot of work since the metal was not oxidized.
Here's a helpful site for a company that does buffing and polishing supplies and has good advice.

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm
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Old 02-15-2003, 12:38 PM   #34
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How long to polish ????

Polishing an Airstream, when done properly, is very time consuming.

If you consume one beer per hour of polishing, your going to get awfully drunk. Best you buy the beer by the cases, or a very large keg.

On the other hand, the more beers you drink, the better the trailer looks. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

But when your all done, your not done!!! Now you have to wax it every 30 days, or if near salt water, every week. What this simply means, is even more beer.

Perhaps though, if you don't drink beer, you shouldn't polish your Airstream.


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Old 02-15-2003, 02:22 PM   #35
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Zero Beer Polish

Mine is a zero beer (or other ETOH) polish ....

Had to give it up a couple of years ago.

Both my brain, my liver, and my airstream are shiny-er for it!

(Nothing against those who still burn that fuel)

Dave
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