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Old 08-09-2010, 07:07 AM   #1
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loislane's Avatar
2014 23' International
Saint louis , Missouri
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 103
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Help with removing corrosion

Hi - this is my first post to this forum. We have a 2008 Int'l and we're already seeing corrosion. Our local dealer told us to try Corrosion X but it doesn't seem to remove it. I'm attaching photos here. Can anyone tell me how to remove this?

Thanks, Loislane
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:25 AM   #2
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2006 19' International CCD
Olathe , Kansas
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,222
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Hi neighbor! I have an 06 with the same issues. I also have a small amount on the rivets. I bought corrosionx and not much help. I bought biosheild and it seemed to turn it grey (killed it ?) but my tail lights are bad! I'm thinking of ordering new ones? I've searched on here (tons of threads) but it's more "I have it" than this is how to fix it, or I got blurry eyed reading ALL of the posts! I've waxed it keep it clean and left biosheild on the areas that have corrosion but will work on her before I store it for the winter and I hope to remove it all. I will post any success.
Are you going to Branson for the Midwest rally in October? I'm going to try and make it.

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Old 08-09-2010, 08:31 AM   #3
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,716
Corrosion X nor Boeshield will remove this corrosion. It's purpose is to protect from further corrosion in this case, and protect other exposed areas from developing it.

It looks like you also have corrosion on the lower edge of the end cap(s), and this is typical and common. The metal panels and fittings have a manufacturer-applied clear finish, ironically to keep the aluminum shiny and new looking. At the edges moisture will seep in and the process starts.

We have had good luck applying Corrosion X or Boeshield about once a month, in a small quantity (I use a Q-tip), on the exposed edges, particularly the end caps and metal fittings, and it seems to have stopped progression of the corrosion.

Do not grind off the present corrosion unless you have discovered a process to apply new finish, as it only will make it appear worse. A few have carefully used a pencil eraser to rub it off, and then applied clear automotive finish with a touch-up applicator. The Airstream Store sells one. Just do not be aggressive with it.

My approach is to treat it regularly with Corrosion X with a Q-tip, keep the trailer clean and away from a salt (corrosive) environment, and "waxed" with a modern poly finish.
It looks nice and shiny, and seems to be preserved. A greater concern is water leaks, inspect regularly, as they can and will destroy your wood subfloor without you knowing it.

Regular monthly inspection and maintenance is the key to a healthy trailer.

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Old 08-09-2010, 09:06 AM   #4
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HI LOIS and welcome to the forums...

the decay on grab handles, tail light castings, UNcoated wheels or other metal bits...

is not exactly the same issue as filiform CREEP under the alcoa clearcoat.

still slathering parts with inhibitors PRIOR to the corrosion helps.

it's often faster to REPLACE rotting parts than repair them,

but for those wanting to clean, smooth and coat the casting, handles and tail lights, RC did a very nice job

see posts # 489 and 493 below...

basically this is accomplished by masking OFF the skin and sanding, smoothing...

then spraying with primer/inhibitor, silver paint and a coat of wax/sealant.

the hinges and handles can't be removed easily to DO this work,

but the tail light casting can be taken OFF to redo.

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:47 AM   #5
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2006 25' Safari SS SE
Eden , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 22
We have a 2006 Safari that we purchased new and have the same problems. It is strange as my husbands parents had a 1969 Airstream that they had for 30 years and never had these issues.
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