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Old 05-27-2008, 09:06 AM   #99
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Just don't get too close. My approach is to get the base done all the way around. The sanding really helps with that and it is physical less demanding. Still I don't think I'm getting all the AlO2. The scratches, pitting, and dings preclude the ultimate mirror effect. Some of the pitting does work out with the G but likly goes all the way through the clad. I think it will look pretty good in a few years. It is after all a camper. I rebuilt it with the idea of going to less developed areas, so the skin will continue to accumulate experience. I will paint the top white.


I ordered an adhesive solvent that reportedly works on silicon. We will see.
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:07 AM   #100
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I want to know how you guys can get that much done in so little time. It took me 20 hours to do just the amount you are showing in that photo Over59... Can you come over and play?
Are you coming to the VAC East Coast?
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:59 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by Over59
Just don't get too close. My approach is to get the base done all the way around. The sanding really helps with that and it is physical less demanding. Still I don't think I'm getting all the AlO2. The scratches, pitting, and dings preclude the ultimate mirror effect. Some of the pitting does work out with the G but likly goes all the way through the clad. I think it will look pretty good in a few years. It is after all a camper. I rebuilt it with the idea of going to less developed areas, so the skin will continue to accumulate experience. I will paint the top white.


I ordered an adhesive solvent that reportedly works on silicon. We will see.
Over59 are you using a power sander with the sandpaper?
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:12 PM   #102
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Over59 are you using a power sander with the sandpaper?
Yes I am. A small quarter sheet finishing sander with lots of water. I am using it to get off the heavy stuff and white spots that the polisher doesn't touch. I am not getting all the pits and dings out as I think they are deepr than the clad.

Caution: Just because I didn't get shocked doesn't mean you won't end up dead.
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:16 PM   #103
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Caution: Just because I didn't get shocked doesn't mean you won't end up dead.
Do you think that a Pneumatic Dual Action Orbital Sander (DA) might be a safer option? (The ones like to paint and body people use) They are pretty cheap.
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:07 PM   #104
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Do you think that a Pneumatic Dual Action Orbital Sander (DA) might be a safer option? (The ones like to paint and body people use) They are pretty cheap.
I like cheap. I'll have to check that out. May even have sticky paper disks.
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:16 PM   #105
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Do you think that a Pneumatic Dual Action Orbital Sander (DA) might be a safer option? (The ones like to paint and body people use) They are pretty cheap.
Would you need a pretty hefty compressor with a high air volume capability for that? My compressor is fine for nail guns and other applications that only use a short burst of air, but for continous air volume applications I don't know how it would handle it...
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Old 05-27-2008, 02:55 PM   #106
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Would you need a pretty hefty compressor with a high air volume capability for that? My compressor is fine for nail guns and other applications that only use a short burst of air, but for continous air volume applications I don't know how it would handle it...
That is a valid point considering that the DA's use 4-10 CFM (depending on model) with some as high as 17CFM. You would need a fairly large compressor, or larger tank, or take more beverage breaks while it catches up.

Air is a lot safer than AC power however.
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:07 PM   #107
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Yup, agree with you on that one!

I'm not sure what the flow rating on my compressor/tank is. It could probably handle 4 cfm, but I'm guessing 17 cfm is way out of its league.
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:18 PM   #108
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The more I dig the deeper I get...
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:46 PM   #109
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sanding block method

I tried using the rubber sanding block but find I am instead preferring to tackle the deep filiform type of corrosion by hand-sanding. With the rubber block I'm not able to isolate the deep threads of the corrosion as easily. Much more sensitivity to the metal without the block. The block, however, does a good job overall and seems to leave a more uniform finish. Probably I'll put the finishing touches, after hand-sanding, using the sanding block.

I also experimented with using the 320 grade sandpaper on highly oxidized areas with no filiform corrosion. The sandpaper cuts the heavy oxidation quickly which seemed very much like taking off a layer of thick mud. I can definitely see how the compounds vs. the sandpaper would take much longer and possibly many more "cuts" to remove a heavy oxidation. The sandpaper works quickly but then perhaps the overall time is lost in working up through the various grades of paper to remove the heavy abrasions.

I got a pound of F9 compound in today. Am interested to see how deeply this cuts the heavy corrosion vs. oxidation.
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:07 PM   #110
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Do you think that a Pneumatic Dual Action Orbital Sander (DA) might be a safer option? (The ones like to paint and body people use) They are pretty cheap.
I am not going go on a harbor freight jag here, promise, but the cheap sanders will make wide circles, the expensive ones will make small circles. Sanding through the grits is designed to get finer and finer scratches. If your sander makes big circles, it will take more work to make them smaller. Saving a few bucks, even 100 of them will cost you in time and effort. Better tools get better results, but that is purely my personal opinion. You know another cool thing about buying a really good tool? You can someday pass it on to your grandchildren.
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:27 PM   #111
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I am not going go on a harbor freight jag here, promise, but the cheap sanders will make wide circles, the expensive ones will make small circles. Sanding through the grits is designed to get finer and finer scratches. If your sander makes big circles, it will take more work to make them smaller. Saving a few bucks, even 100 of them will cost you in time and effort. Better tools get better results, but that is purely my personal opinion. You know another cool thing about buying a really good tool? You can someday pass it on to your grandchildren.
I did not mention Harbor Freight or Northern as I am in the retail hardware business myself. We sell them also. I just mentioned the pneumatic sanders as they are generally cheaper than electric and if you are standing in a pool of water I would think they would be safer. IMHO.
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:49 PM   #112
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Do you sell Bosch? That is the best line of tools out there in my not humble opinion. I love harbor freight, if you do not believe me, check my blog. I wrote an entire entry dedicated just to the proper care of their complete line of tools.
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