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Old 05-21-2008, 07:26 PM   #57
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BTW I also purchased a few bunches of the 0000 steel wool that was inconspicuously sitting there. I felt a wee bit guilty doing so. I'm sure it will lead to even worse addictions.
If nothing else, it's handy for cleaning glass without scratching, as well as other hard surfaces.
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:54 PM   #58
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electro-negativity

Okay I listened to a bit of the VAP episode 20, The Shiniest Airstream on the Planet!, to investigate a little further the subtle mysteries of silicon carbide and aluminum oxide sandpapers. Here's the report.

Apparently silicon carbide based sandpapers are not recommended as the "electro-negativity" of the silicon carbide is different from aluminum metal and therefore supposedly has a corrosive effect on it.

Luckily, aluminum oxide based sandpapers were specifically mentioned during the broadcast and referred to as the better alternative. The aluminum oxide paper is apparently the same material as the aluminum only in an oxide condition. The 3M brand aluminum oxide paper was specifically mentioned as an example.

Thanks 62overlander for pointing out sandpaper as a tool and this information on the VAP!
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Old 05-22-2008, 05:42 AM   #59
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you might want to listen to episode 19 also. I deals with polishing also... Actually I recommend listening to all of them. I have listened to every episode at least four times now and learn something extremely important every time. I don't think Tim realizes what a valuable tool he has created. He was saying that the earlier shows will soon not be available, due to some kind of not enough server space or band width or some kind of not enough of something. Please let Tim know how much you appreciate what he, Rob, and Colin do. The shows really gets rocking around episode 50 when a special guest appears on the show, Antsy of the Trailer park Troubadours are good too
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:49 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by 62overlander
you might want to listen to episode 19 also. I deals with polishing also... Actually I recommend listening to all of them. I have listened to every episode at least four times now and learn something extremely important every time. I don't think Tim realizes what a valuable tool he has created. He was saying that the earlier shows will soon not be available, due to some kind of not enough server space or band width or some kind of not enough of something. Please let Tim know how much you appreciate what he, Rob, and Colin do. The shows really gets rocking around episode 50 when a special guest appears on the show, Antsy of the Trailer park Troubadours are good too
I was listening to episodes 19 and 20 last night as a matter of fact, lots of good information in there. Tim, Rob, and Colin do a great job.
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Old 05-22-2008, 10:42 AM   #61
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Well Monocoque,

I have an 05 model and have had some filiform issues, mainly on the cast items such as taillights and entry door handle. I have had some where the skins (segments) overlap. My rig being under warranty they would take the segements off if I pressed the issue however not wanting to mess with the original buck rivited design I handled each area different according to the area. I had most skin filiform on the beltline or the "equator" of the body. The factory suggested a body molding that goes on the Classic line of trailers. They sanded very lightly and put a clearcoat on the affected areas, and proceeded to put the beltline on.

The bummer is out in the middle of a segment where say a rock hits it. The filiform will worm out from that. Obviously all newer rigs they are not really cabable of being polished without sick work as the aluminum is brushed. So I reguarly browse and treat the any noticed areas with GM clearcoat touch up. I am not sure how these newer rigs will look in 15 years....

I have enjoyed all of your threads and discussion....
Thanks! It's good to hear that airstream addresses these issues under warrant given the nature of this form of corrosion. I wonder what kind of sandpaper or abrasive they are using? I suppose it's not a trade secret and a call to Ohio and a conversation with the right person would reveal their technique.
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:19 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by monocoque
Thanks! It's good to hear that airstream addresses these issues under warrant given the nature of this form of corrosion. I wonder what kind of sandpaper or abrasive they are using? I suppose it's not a trade secret and a call to Ohio and a conversation with the right person would reveal their technique.
I bet they drill off the panel and olympic a new one on. Much faster than sanding or buffing to removing the corrosion. As demonstrated in other threads, some out there feel olympics are okay to use in that situation. I have been told they replace panels this way all the time at Jackson Center. Find it hard to believe myself, but have been told it is true.
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:08 AM   #63
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Folks - seems like we lost topic on wax as protectant - any opinions?
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:22 AM   #64
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Yes, wax.
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:36 AM   #65
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any particular type, etc. . . .
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Old 05-23-2008, 11:42 AM   #66
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any particular type, etc. . . .
I'm just messin with ya...
Here are a couple of threads for your reading pleasure.
Dave

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eam-23641.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...wax-41296.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441/wax-16052.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...wax-12203.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441/glass-wax-329.html
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:01 PM   #67
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episodes 19 and 20

As mentioned above the VAP had to take off the old episodes due to storage space. Tim was gracious enough to provide a link for the 19th and 20th episodes since they were discussed on this forum.

Kind of makes me want to contribute to his cause.

Here you go...

Use these two links for 19 and 20.


http://www.podtrac.com/pts/redirect....ts/vap0019.mp3


http://www.podtrac.com/pts/redirect....ts/vap0020.mp3

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Old 05-23-2008, 09:49 PM   #68
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Air & Vap

Thank-you's to Tim for providing the link and Chris for posting them! As many have been saying understanding the knowledge from these key episodes is essential to tackling the form of heavy corrosion this thread was hopefully meant to address.

BTW I now have one of those "yellow" variable speed polishers and armed with the information I have recently gleaned from this AIR forum and from the VAP I'll be working on the trailer this weekend. Photos to follow...!
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:44 PM   #69
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320, 400, 600, 1000, F7

Following the advise gleaned from the discussion above I tackled a pocket of filiform corrosion on a curbside panel just forward of the door. This particular panel isn't the worst area of corrosion on the trailer but it's fairly representative of the extent of the corrosion.

I started using 3M aluminum oxide Imperial wetordry sandpaper. I placed the four grades of sandpaper, 320, 400, 600 and 1000, in a 5 gallon bucket filled with fresh water. I finished with Nuvite grade F7 compound for heavy oxidation. The results were amazing in my opinion.

Starting with the third photo you can see the beginning point. Note the worm like corrosion deeply embedded in the skin. The fourth photo shows the results of wet sanding a small area with 320 grade paper. The fifth a cross section, left to right, of the results of wet sanding in stages leading gradually from 1000 on the left to 320 on the far right. The sixth photo shows a close-up of the whole area finished with 1000 grade paper. The seventh is the results after compounding the area with grade F7 compound. Note the corrosion surrounding the compounded area. And the eighth is an even larger section finished with sanding and F7.
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:47 AM   #70
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Right on Captain Jack, That is looking sweet. I know it is labor intensive, but the results are very worth the effort. Be glad you have a shortie and not a big girl like me. A few extra feet can make a huge difference. I am lucky thought, for I do not have the file-form to contend with. Here is a close up of what salt air, aluminum, and no maintenance gives you.
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Those are deep pits of oxidation. I am going to estimate them to be 1/32" deep. I did all the things you described, twice... I will just live with it.
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