Heavy Oxidation

[monocoque]

Originally Posted by SafariSS

Well Monocoque,

I have an 05 model and have had some filiform issues, mainly on the cast items such as taillights and entry door handle. I have had some where the skins (segments) overlap. My rig being under warranty they would take the segements off if I pressed the issue however not wanting to mess with the original buck rivited design I handled each area different according to the area. I had most skin filiform on the beltline or the "equator" of the body. The factory suggested a body molding that goes on the Classic line of trailers. They sanded very lightly and put a clearcoat on the affected areas, and proceeded to put the beltline on.

The bummer is out in the middle of a segment where say a rock hits it. The filiform will worm out from that. Obviously all newer rigs they are not really cabable of being polished without sick work as the aluminum is brushed. So I reguarly browse and treat the any noticed areas with GM clearcoat touch up. I am not sure how these newer rigs will look in 15 years....

I have enjoyed all of your threads and discussion....

Thanks! It's good to hear that airstream addresses these issues under warrant given the nature of this form of corrosion. I wonder what kind of sandpaper or abrasive they are using? I suppose it's not a trade secret and a call to Ohio and a conversation with the right person would reveal their technique.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

Originally Posted by monocoque

Thanks! It's good to hear that airstream addresses these issues under warrant given the nature of this form of corrosion. I wonder what kind of sandpaper or abrasive they are using? I suppose it's not a trade secret and a call to Ohio and a conversation with the right person would reveal their technique.

I bet they drill off the panel and olympic a new one on. Much faster than sanding or buffing to removing the corrosion. As demonstrated in other threads, some out there feel olympics are okay to use in that situation. I have been told they replace panels this way all the time at Jackson Center. Find it hard to believe myself, but have been told it is true.

[nunya001]

Folks - seems like we lost topic on wax as protectant - any opinions?

[Fyrzowt]

Yes, wax.

[nunya001]

any particular type, etc. . . .

[Fyrzowt]

any particular type, etc. . . .

I'm just messin with ya...
Here are a couple of threads for your reading pleasure.
Dave

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eam-23641.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...wax-41296.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441/wax-16052.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...wax-12203.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441/glass-wax-329.html

[ckeysor]

As mentioned above the VAP had to take off the old episodes due to storage space. Tim was gracious enough to provide a link for the 19th and 20th episodes since they were discussed on this forum.

Kind of makes me want to contribute to his cause.

Here you go...

Use these two links for 19 and 20.


http://www.podtrac.com/pts/redirect....ts/vap0019.mp3


http://www.podtrac.com/pts/redirect....ts/vap0020.mp3

[monocoque]

Thank-you's to Tim for providing the link and Chris for posting them! As many have been saying understanding the knowledge from these key episodes is essential to tackling the form of heavy corrosion this thread was hopefully meant to address.

BTW I now have one of those "yellow" variable speed polishers and armed with the information I have recently gleaned from this AIR forum and from the VAP I'll be working on the trailer this weekend. Photos to follow...!

[monocoque]

Following the advise gleaned from the discussion above I tackled a pocket of filiform corrosion on a curbside panel just forward of the door. This particular panel isn't the worst area of corrosion on the trailer but it's fairly representative of the extent of the corrosion.

I started using 3M aluminum oxide Imperial wetordry sandpaper. I placed the four grades of sandpaper, 320, 400, 600 and 1000, in a 5 gallon bucket filled with fresh water. I finished with Nuvite grade F7 compound for heavy oxidation. The results were amazing in my opinion.

Starting with the third photo you can see the beginning point. Note the worm like corrosion deeply embedded in the skin. The fourth photo shows the results of wet sanding a small area with 320 grade paper. The fifth a cross section, left to right, of the results of wet sanding in stages leading gradually from 1000 on the left to 320 on the far right. The sixth photo shows a close-up of the whole area finished with 1000 grade paper. The seventh is the results after compounding the area with grade F7 compound. Note the corrosion surrounding the compounded area. And the eighth is an even larger section finished with sanding and F7.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

Right on Captain Jack, That is looking sweet. I know it is labor intensive, but the results are very worth the effort. Be glad you have a shortie and not a big girl like me. A few extra feet can make a huge difference. I am lucky thought, for I do not have the file-form to contend with. Here is a close up of what salt air, aluminum, and no maintenance gives you.

Those are deep pits of oxidation. I am going to estimate them to be 1/32" deep. I did all the things you described, twice... I will just live with it.

[ckeysor]

I have been following this. The dread of going over sections 12+ times with F9 was really wearing me down.

I will try some the same procedure today on mine. Thanks for the great summaries.

[Frank's Trailer Works]

Originally Posted by ckeysor

I have been following this. The dread of going over sections 12+ times with F9 was really wearing me down.

I will try some the same procedure today on mine. Thanks for the great summaries.

I know any aluminum CAN BE polished, but I think yours is going to be very hard due to the alloy.

[Over59]

Originally Posted by Fyrzowt

We all have, and are entitled to our opinions, I don't begrudge them. But, my $29 HF polisher/buffer is variable speed and will go from a near standstill to whatever the rated speed is. There is no problem getting it slow enough.

If someone is otherwise inclined to try one, don't let the eroneous speed comment turn you away.

Mine has been working great - but may stop tomorrow. Who knows?

Saved omoney on one of those from HF and it burned up in the first 100 hours. The Dewalt is much more comfortable to use and leave no question that it's up to the job. Hardly warms up.

Polishing an old AS is like building a good marriage. Lots of work, lots of being wrong when you're sure you were right, more work, patiences, MONEY, committment, taking care of the big picture, attention to details, and the joy of it all. Of course the AS won't give you ongoing coaching or a warm hug .

[muddy_hollow]

Originally Posted by Over59

Saved omoney on one of those from HF and it burned up in the first 100 hours. The Dewalt is much more comfortable to use and leave no question that it's up to the job. Hardly warms up.
:

I bought one of those variable speed polishers from HF when I first started. I wasn't sure I wanted to do the whole thing.... well about half way through the entire job the HF died. Sent it back and HF said it would be 3 months!!!! for a replacement. Told them to stick it and went to my local tools supply and bought the dewalt. Great product no issues.

To Over59s point about polishing like a marriage, I have to say that the airstream project can be like another wife..... and the first wife can get very jealous when you spent to much time with your Aluminum love

Doug

[Frank's Trailer Works]

I was walking past a pawn shop friday, downtown Baltimore and in the window was a Makita polisher/ compounder. It had a brand new wool bonnet on it and the price tag said $35... it is mine now. Talk about a good deal.

[monocoque]

Originally Posted by 62overlander

Right on Captain Jack, That is looking sweet. I know it is labor intensive, but the results are very worth the effort. Be glad you have a shortie and not a big girl like me. A few extra feet can make a huge difference. I am lucky thought, for I do not have the file-form to contend with. Here is a close up of what salt air, aluminum, and no maintenance gives you.
Those are deep pits of oxidation. I am going to estimate them to be 1/32" deep. I did all the things you described, twice... I will just live with it.

Thanks! The rewards are worth it to me! Especially, when there is a dramatic difference like this. Although I now have a slight sunburn from working in the sun which was partial payment!

Shortie? This Ambassador is a 29 footer! That's a lot of polishing. Although the side panels don't have such deep pockets of filiform just sporadic. This is at the very least what seems like a whole summer project. And I still don't have the new frame and axles back under her! Those will be here soon.

It's difficult to see from your photo but that looks a lot like filiform corrosion to me?

These photos were taken after dark which gives a better impression of the overall general oxidation but not the filiform. The second photo, also taken after dark with the flash, reveals what happened when I didn't use the 320 grade to completely remove the corrosion.

Note the remaining pitting in the area just above the rivet line and inside the polished area. As I mentioned this was just a beginning experiment and I didn't want to overdo things the first time. Now I'll go back with the 320 in those areas and work back up through the grades. Lesson learned: keep working with the coarsest grade until 100% of the corrosion is gone.

[utee94]

Todd,

Thanks for taking the time to post your experiments on this, it's great information. Karma to you, and good luck on the continued work.

It's hot out there, be careful. I'll think about you sweating your arse off while I'm out at the lake today!


-Marcus

[monocoque]

Originally Posted by ckeysor

I have been following this. The dread of going over sections 12+ times with F9 was really wearing me down.

I will try some the same procedure today on mine. Thanks for the great summaries.

Chris, at least on this aluminum the 3M paper described above takes it right out the first time. Take some pictures of what you've got and post em here. I'd like to see what you're dealing with there. If you use the sandpaper post before and after shots of your work. Good luck!

[monocoque]

Over59, muddy hollow, 62overlander, Marcus:

As mentioned I settled for the yellow model after considering all the options as well as my wallet. 62O you got lucky brother!

BTW 3M makes a great velco backing plate that matches the wool compounding pad. I found all these at the local south-side auto body and paint supply shop. The pad gets dirty quickly and after only a few passes so I'll probably purchase a few more pads to wash, dry and rotate.

Marcus, thanks! Be careful el sol is definitely full strength now! It'll getcha whether you're working on your trailer in the driveway or your boat on the lake. I'm thinking early morning and late afternoon is the better time for polishing.

[ckeysor]

Originally Posted by 62overlander

I know any aluminum CAN BE polished, but I think yours is going to be very hard due to the alloy.

From what I understand from reading and personal experience is that any alumninum can be polished just not to a mirror shine. 62O is that your meaning????

I have a good chunk of my trailer cleaned, compounded and polished to a deep hye. Which is perfectly fine with me. Actually my wife is an architect and prefers a satin finish over even the shine I currently have.

PS.