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Old 05-20-2008, 10:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94
I'll defiinitely consider working in trade. If I practice polishing on your trailers, then I'll be an expert at it by the time I finally get mine.

And I bet three or four people polishing at once can make it go a bit quicker than going solo!

Maybe we should all meet in Luling and have a polish party. And, of course, some BBQ...
You guys in Texas have all the fun....
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:17 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 62overlander
"persistence" it is what you have to have more of than the corrosion.
I spent 5 hours working the panel below my jalousie windows yesterday. Someone had used steel wool or maybe 80 grit sandpaper to clean up the area around the placards. The sanding had given the corrosion a good tooth to build from. This is what I did... wet sanded with 320, 400, 600, then 1000. I then used F9, then F7. Lots of work for one small panel, all due to someone being too aggressive and not finishing what they started. Not perfect, but much better.
Attachment 60674Attachment 60673
overlander62,

Thanks for all the great photos! Yahoo!

Please forgive my lack of experience here but when you say "wet sanded" with 320, 400, 600, then 1000 I assume you are referring to sandpaper. Any special brand or type? Do you use the papers available at the various hardware boxes? Looks like I should be able to start this weekend! What do you think about steel wool? Thanks again!
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:26 PM   #17
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filiform fiesta

Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94
I'll defiinitely consider working in trade. If I practice polishing on your trailers, then I'll be an expert at it by the time I finally get mine.

And I bet three or four people polishing at once can make it go a bit quicker than going solo!

Maybe we should all meet in Luling and have a polish party. And, of course, some BBQ...
There's plenty of filiform to go around on this trailer! But remember my shell is frame-less at the moment so we'll have to make the party in San Antonio! Come on over! We'll have a filiform polishing fiesta with fajitas, guacamole, salsa and cerveza! Yall come on over! ˇWelcome, Bienvenidos!
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:32 PM   #18
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Sure, just make sure you fill up one of these:



with plenty of these:



and we'll be good to go!
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:42 PM   #19
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It's a deal!

But don't forget to bring along your variable speed polishers! Looks like I definitely be getting one soon; my first weekend polishing was simply by hand.

I haven't found a dewalt variable speed polisher locally. What's your experience with other variable speed polishers? The dewalts are about $199.
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by monocoque
But remember my shell is frame-less at the moment so we'll have to make the party in San Antonio! Come on over! We'll have a filiform polishing fiesta with fajitas, guacamole, salsa and cerveza! Yall come on over! ˇWelcome, Bienvenidos!
Did I hear cervezas? Dos XX's por favor. Don't forget mine has new axles and wheels. When would be a good time for me to bring it?

I'm not cheap so I will bring the limes.
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:16 PM   #21
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I bought my polisher at Sears and it worked just fine,for a few bucks more you may want to get extended warranty,it case you have more stamina than me ,I was always hot before the buffer was. Dave
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:04 PM   #22
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Vernon, if you look closely inside Marcus' cooler you'll only see Shiner Bock and Negro Modelo! I think somebody must have already finished off all the Carta Blanca and Dos XX's.
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:12 PM   #23
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I bought my polisher at Sears and it worked just fine,for a few bucks more you may want to get extended warranty,it case you have more stamina than me ,I was always hot before the buffer was. Dave
Dave, did you get the DeWalt polisher?
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monocoque
Vernon, if you look closely inside Marcus' cooler you'll only see Shiner Bock and Negro Modelo! I think somebody must have already finished off all the Carta Blanca and Dos XX's.
Heh, I drank those first!

To be fair, there's Shiner Bock, Negra Modelo, and the everyday Modelo Especial in that cooler (as well as some bottled water my wife made me put in there).

I'm a fan of Carta Blanca, but my favorite Mexican beers are Bohemia and Pacifico Clara.
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:33 PM   #25
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To get back on topic, I know that some people on the Forums seem to have had some success with the Harbor Freight buffer.

Overlander62, on the other hand, thinks HF tools are a bunch of junk and strongly urges against their use.
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Old 05-20-2008, 03:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monocoque
overlander62,

Thanks for all the great photos! Yahoo!

Please forgive my lack of experience here but when you say "wet sanded" with 320, 400, 600, then 1000 I assume you are referring to sandpaper. Any special brand or type? Do you use the papers available at the various hardware boxes? Looks like I should be able to start this weekend! What do you think about steel wool? Thanks again!
Wet sanding is both a type of paper and a technique. You might find some of those grits at the box stores, but the quality of the paper will be low and they will have very few of the grits. Go to a auto body supply store, they will have all the grits and some very high end paper too. The type I use is a 3M product and is black. I have seen the high end stuff that is gold too. so you fold a quarter sheet in half and dip it in a bowl of water for about 15 minutes. This gets it soft and will help it stick flat to the surface you are sanding. Soft strokes, let the paper do the work... when it stops moving easy, wash it off in the bowl, wipe the area clean and go at it some more. Once you feel you have removed the oxidation and scratches to the level you feel good about, go to the next grit. If the paper is not sliding freely, it has too much aluminum in it, rinse it off. Each grit is creating very fine scratches, so go in one direction if possible. Up and down is less noticable to the eye. The scratches will be getting finer and finer until by 1000 it will be a soft surface. The first pass if F7 will be almost mirror like right off. Stepping up through the grits is very important so do not jump too fast.
Yes, it is very labor intensive. Yes, it takes a long time. Yes, 00000 steel wool and mineral spirits is much faster, but it will leave you with fine scratches. Those scratches will not be easily seen by all us old guys with bad eyes. The problem with them is that they will act as oxide farms. It will incubate in there and in no time all your work will be for not.
I tried to take some photos of where steel wool was used, but the detail does not translate in the photos. It is my opinion that it should be avoided on aluminum. Others agree, some disagree. I suggest you use it, then you can regret what you did, and know why you regret it. On the other hand, if I am wrong, then you will be able to say, "see, 62 overlander, you were wrong."
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:17 PM   #27
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oxide farming

Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
....The scratches will be getting finer and finer until by 1000 it will be a soft surface. The first pass if F7 will be almost mirror like right off. Stepping up through the grits is very important so do not jump too fast....

....Yes, 00000 steel wool and mineral spirits is much faster, but it will leave you with fine scratches. Those scratches will not be easily seen by all us old guys with bad eyes. The problem with them is that they will act as oxide farms. It will incubate in there and in no time all your work will be for not....
62 overlander, thank-you for the comprehensive and detailed explanation.

First thing to do is to find an auto body supply store in this area. I have been planning to find one anyway to pick up some simple auto body repair tools for working small dents out of the skins and wraps. When I find one I'll also pick up some high-grade wet sandpaper.

When you say "the first pass of F7 will be almost mirror like right off" I take it that you mean the F7 is used only after the 1000 grade paper. Right? Earlier you also recommended using F9 so after the 1000 grade, then F9, then F7 etc...

I think you're right I will get some 00000 wool and try it on a inconspicuous area just as an experiment. But your reasoning makes good sense. I certainly don't want to encourage any more oxide farms. My farm is healthy enough as it is, thank-you.
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Old 05-20-2008, 05:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94
To get back on topic, I know that some people on the Forums seem to have had some success with the Harbor Freight buffer.

Overlander62, on the other hand, thinks HF tools are a bunch of junk and strongly urges against their use.
He's right, if you are in the polishing business or otherwise use it a lot, but...
I bought mine at HF and polished a 21' AS twice and it's still going strong. I have also had other incidental uses in the shop and loaned it to my brother in law for a car polish job.
I hope it runs for a long time, but I have gotten my $29 out of it already.
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