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easyride · 05-20-2008, 12:16 PM

I bought my polisher at Sears and it worked just fine,for a few bucks more you may want to get extended warranty,it case you have more stamina than me ,I was always hot before the buffer was. Dave

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 02:04 PM

Vernon, if you look closely inside Marcus' cooler you'll only see Shiner Bock and Negro Modelo! I think somebody must have already finished off all the Carta Blanca and Dos XX's.

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by easyride

I bought my polisher at Sears and it worked just fine,for a few bucks more you may want to get extended warranty,it case you have more stamina than me ,I was always hot before the buffer was. Dave

Dave, did you get the DeWalt polisher?

utee94 · 05-20-2008, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monocoque

Vernon, if you look closely inside Marcus' cooler you'll only see Shiner Bock and Negro Modelo! I think somebody must have already finished off all the Carta Blanca and Dos XX's.

Heh, I drank those first!

To be fair, there's Shiner Bock, Negra Modelo, and the everyday Modelo Especial in that cooler (as well as some bottled water my wife made me put in there).

I'm a fan of Carta Blanca, but my favorite Mexican beers are Bohemia and Pacifico Clara.

utee94 · 05-20-2008, 02:33 PM

To get back on topic, I know that some people on the Forums seem to have had some success with the Harbor Freight buffer.

Overlander62, on the other hand, thinks HF tools are a bunch of junk and strongly urges against their use.

Frank's Trailer Works · 05-20-2008, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monocoque

overlander62,

Thanks for all the great photos! Yahoo!

Please forgive my lack of experience here but when you say "wet sanded" with 320, 400, 600, then 1000 I assume you are referring to sandpaper. Any special brand or type? Do you use the papers available at the various hardware boxes? Looks like I should be able to start this weekend! What do you think about steel wool? Thanks again!

Wet sanding is both a type of paper and a technique. You might find some of those grits at the box stores, but the quality of the paper will be low and they will have very few of the grits. Go to a auto body supply store, they will have all the grits and some very high end paper too. The type I use is a 3M product and is black. I have seen the high end stuff that is gold too. so you fold a quarter sheet in half and dip it in a bowl of water for about 15 minutes. This gets it soft and will help it stick flat to the surface you are sanding. Soft strokes, let the paper do the work... when it stops moving easy, wash it off in the bowl, wipe the area clean and go at it some more. Once you feel you have removed the oxidation and scratches to the level you feel good about, go to the next grit. If the paper is not sliding freely, it has too much aluminum in it, rinse it off. Each grit is creating very fine scratches, so go in one direction if possible. Up and down is less noticable to the eye. The scratches will be getting finer and finer until by 1000 it will be a soft surface. The first pass if F7 will be almost mirror like right off. Stepping up through the grits is very important so do not jump too fast.
Yes, it is very labor intensive. Yes, it takes a long time. Yes, 00000 steel wool and mineral spirits is much faster, but it will leave you with fine scratches. Those scratches will not be easily seen by all us old guys with bad eyes. The problem with them is that they will act as oxide farms. It will incubate in there and in no time all your work will be for not.
I tried to take some photos of where steel wool was used, but the detail does not translate in the photos. It is my opinion that it should be avoided on aluminum. Others agree, some disagree. I suggest you use it, then you can regret what you did, and know why you regret it. On the other hand, if I am wrong, then you will be able to say, "see, 62 overlander, you were wrong."

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62overlander

....The scratches will be getting finer and finer until by 1000 it will be a soft surface. The first pass if F7 will be almost mirror like right off. Stepping up through the grits is very important so do not jump too fast....

....Yes, 00000 steel wool and mineral spirits is much faster, but it will leave you with fine scratches. Those scratches will not be easily seen by all us old guys with bad eyes. The problem with them is that they will act as oxide farms. It will incubate in there and in no time all your work will be for not....

62 overlander, thank-you for the comprehensive and detailed explanation.

First thing to do is to find an auto body supply store in this area. I have been planning to find one anyway to pick up some simple auto body repair tools for working small dents out of the skins and wraps. When I find one I'll also pick up some high-grade wet sandpaper.

When you say "the first pass of F7 will be almost mirror like right off" I take it that you mean the F7 is used only after the 1000 grade paper. Right? Earlier you also recommended using F9 so after the 1000 grade, then F9, then F7 etc...

I think you're right I will get some 00000 wool and try it on a inconspicuous area just as an experiment. But your reasoning makes good sense. I certainly don't want to encourage any more oxide farms. My farm is healthy enough as it is, thank-you.

Fyrzowt · 05-20-2008, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utee94

To get back on topic, I know that some people on the Forums seem to have had some success with the Harbor Freight buffer.

Overlander62, on the other hand, thinks HF tools are a bunch of junk and strongly urges against their use.

He's right, if you are in the polishing business or otherwise use it a lot, but...
I bought mine at HF and polished a 21' AS twice and it's still going strong. I have also had other incidental uses in the shop and loaned it to my brother in law for a car polish job.
I hope it runs for a long time, but I have gotten my $29 out of it already.

ckeysor · 05-20-2008, 04:30 PM

62 Overlander,

Thanks for following up with your knowledge. I am familar with wet sanding from racing sailboats. We actually only went to 600 grit to create micro scratches to reduce frition off the hull. With that said I could see why you would go on up the food chain.

One clarification. Are you suggesting that we should wet sand on heavy oxidation instead of 10+ rounds of F7 or F9? I have been using F9 and Rolite Pre-polish and it is taking forever.

Also, no wonder you all have such nice trailers when you notice the detail of the type of beer in a cooler! Very impressive.

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fyrzowt

He's right, if you are in the polishing business or otherwise use it a lot, but...
I bought mine at HF and polished a 21' AS twice and it's still going strong. I have also had other incidental uses in the shop and loaned it to my brother in law for a car polish job.
I hope it runs for a long time, but I have gotten my $29 out of it already.

I'm still having a difficult time biting off $199 for a Dewalt but I appreciate the value of good tools. They can make a huge difference...on the other hand $29 buck is tempting...just to get started.

I must say now with a little knowledge under my belt and with the help all the experience here I'm really looking forward to re-approaching those worm-signs armed with some sandpaper and power tools!

Frank's Trailer Works · 05-20-2008, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fyrzowt

He's right, if you are in the polishing business or otherwise use it a lot, but...
I bought mine at HF and polished a 21' AS twice and it's still going strong. I have also had other incidental uses in the shop and loaned it to my brother in law for a car polish job.
I hope it runs for a long time, but I have gotten my $29 out of it already.

!!!!! MY OPINION.... The place reffered to as Harbor Freight, it sucks, their tools suck, and so do all of their polishing supplies. I am trying hard to burn it up. I smell it coming... the smell of brakes coming from it now. As soon as it goes, I buy a Makita or Milwaulki, a real tool to do real work. Waste your money and enjoy the way it makes your carpal tunnel feel after 100 hours. also it is spinning at three times the speed it should be even in the slowest setting. Hey, it is a free country and you are free to piss your money into what ever wind you choose. Also I payed $14.97 for the whole kit.... still payed $14.96 too much. MY OPINION !!!!!

utee94 · 05-20-2008, 06:14 PM

I told you 62o had an opinion on it...

Personally, I've used Harbor Freight tools successfully for many years, but they're definitely lower quality than "real" tools. The air compressor I bought there has worked great for almost ten years.

On the other hand, I'm on my second brad nailer from there. Each one costs about $14.99, and they seem to be lasting about 3-4 years each. Still, I'm coming out ahead of the game since the least expensive "real" one I've seen costs around $60.

But let me be clear-- I've never used any buffers from there and cannot comment on the quality or the carpal-tunnel implications of using one.

samb · 05-20-2008, 06:22 PM

ON STEEL WOOL..........
I've heard that little bits of steel wool can become lodged around rivets and in seams and rust later causing red stains. Has anyone had this problem?

I have used steel wool in a small area on a different trailer and did not notice any rust, but since I have used bronze wool and got good results, not that I will ever try polishing my Safari. Another guy in Texas used aluminum wool and got very good results....... a blinding shine.
Just thought I would add some other ideas to keep everyone wondering what is best and hopefully report back to us.
Sam

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62overlander

...it is spinning at three times the speed it should be even in the slowest setting...

I hear ya!

Just to investigate I dropped by Sears on my way home to see what their brand name polisher was like. Well it's only $70 bucks but not variable with only two speeds.

To my way of thinking 62overlander is right. These other brands apparently don't have full-range variable speed control. I would rather pay extra for the full-range spin control. Especially, when going after worm-sign!

However, "just to get started" $29 buck might serve somebody's purpose. Now, if I could only put my finger on that purpose...?

Seriously, though, thanks to everybody who is contributing to this thread --no matter what your preference in polishers! Major karma to ya. All polishers are welcome to join the filiform-fiesta at my place!

Now...that Milwaulkee, on the otherhand, sitting there next to the Sears brand for $199 was mighty tempting. So far I haven't found a Dewalt anywhere in town. Gotta find that automotive repair supply shop soon...

Hey, where'd you find that whistling smilie?

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ckeysor

Also, no wonder you all have such nice trailers when you notice the detail of the type of beer in a cooler! Very impressive.

Chris, I admit I have zero experience, so far, working on airstreams but I do have a bit of experience, unfortunately, investigating the contents of ice chests especially the Mexican style coolers like the one in Marcus' photo!

Frank's Trailer Works · 05-20-2008, 07:09 PM

I am going tomorrow to buy a real polisher...

Sam, The key is making finer and finer scratches no mater what you use. That is it in a nut shell.

SafariSS · 05-20-2008, 07:11 PM

I love it, perfect line for a restoration...

“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...”

- Captain Jack Sparrow

Thats great!!

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 07:16 PM

Thanks SafariSS!

BTW I notice you posted about your experience with filiform corrosion in several of the other threads on this issue. Since you're near the coast do you mind sharing your experiences dealing with worm-sign and remedies if any on the Safari? --Cap'n Jack

Fyrzowt · 05-20-2008, 08:38 PM

We all have, and are entitled to our opinions, I don't begrudge them. But, my $29 HF polisher/buffer is variable speed and will go from a near standstill to whatever the rated speed is. There is no problem getting it slow enough.

If someone is otherwise inclined to try one, don't let the eroneous speed comment turn you away.

Mine has been working great - but may stop tomorrow. Who knows?

monocoque · 05-20-2008, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fyrzowt

We all have, and are entitled to our opinions, I don't begrudge them. But, my $29 HF polisher/buffer is variable speed and will go from a near standstill to whatever the rated speed is. There is no problem getting it slow enough.

If someone is otherwise inclined to try one, don't let the eroneous speed comment turn you away.

Mine has been working great - but may stop tomorrow. Who knows?

Wow! That's good to know. Spin control for us all, even on a budget, in the good fight against incipient worm-sign!