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Old 07-29-2008, 04:29 PM   #169
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Hi Todd,

No, not trying to keep the pictures under wraps, I've just been tied up with family stuff since returning from the recovery mission, which took two days out of my vacation that I had originally planned on spending with my 10-month-old!

I'm working on getting the pictures up and will try to get some close ups of the skin. There's not any terribly heavy corrosion or oxidation, in fact all-in-all the exterior looks to be in good shape. A quick hand-polish to even up the finish on all panels would probably give the rig a nice, even, natural patina. Frank would say "perfect" at that point and leave it at that.

On the other hand, I can't get past the beautiful shine of a polished rig, so I will likely engage in the Extreme Folly of attempting to polish to a mirror shine.

I've thought a lot about products, tools, and techniques, but haven't yet come to any definitive conclusions on what I plan to use. Luckily, I have intrepid souls like you and Frank, as well as the pros like Rob, to guide me on this path.
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:44 PM   #170
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Ahh...EXTREME FOLLY...now you're talking my language! Of course you have already shown the way in so many ways! I'm pretty sure you'll be polishing like the experts quite soon. BTW it's great seeing "1963 26' Overlander" listed in your profile.
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:13 PM   #171
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Nuvite "Inspected" my polishing work

I'm just back from the airshow in Oshkosh, Wi and spent some time talking to the Nuvite folks. I told them about my polishing troubles and they offered to come take a look at the trailer to see first hand what and how I was doing. I did have one small area polished to a "final" degree for them to see and they thought that it looked very good. Here is what they had to say about the areas that don't look so good, and I add they they were very specific to add that these instructions are only for the the "newer" trailers with the satin aluminum fishish:

1. Use F9, two or three passes should remove the satin finish and get
down to a resonable shine. Use plenty of polish.
2. If you have heavy corrosion, wet sand then use the F9.
3. Follow up with F7 on the cyclo then S.

Of course, all of us know that the Nuvite website says to use the product sparingly and never wet sand. And some of us also know that F9 alone isn't doing the job. I think that those of us who are trying to polish one of the newer trailers must use a different process. The Nuvite folks were great, very helpful and happy to spend 30 minutes looking over my trailer.
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Old 07-31-2008, 08:01 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monocoque View Post
Ahh...EXTREME FOLLY...now you're talking my language! Of course you have already shown the way in so many ways! I'm pretty sure you'll be polishing like the experts quite soon. BTW it's great seeing "1963 26' Overlander" listed in your profile.
Thanks amigo, it felt great to make the change in the profile!

I'm very much looking forward to seeing you put frame and shell together. You've come a long way.

-Marcus
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:04 PM   #173
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Originally Posted by musketeer View Post
If you have heavy corrosion, wet sand then use the F9.
Thanks for the report from Nuvite. Interesting that they confirm our experience here using wet sanding for heavy corrosion! Please do post a few photos of your work if you get a chance!
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Old 02-04-2009, 12:23 PM   #174
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Wow! After Reading This Thread: Time for Death Certificate

My 72 Tradewind is under cover but right by the beach..... Which is where I need it.

Tragically.....that location will be a death sentence for old "Nancy". (Yes, named after Nancy Reagan....)

It's difficult to watch the slow demise as the worm corrosion takes the upper
hand... All I can do, it seems, is to keep it washed. Damn.... very sad. Waxing has not helped at all but perhaps actually accelerated the process.

The "Land Yacht" plates on each side were refabricated by a previous owner
and the corrosion at that contact point is horrendous. I think I will drill the rivets and remove them to try to save the skin.
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Old 02-05-2009, 02:32 PM   #175
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Yes ,If you have it on the beach it is just wash,wash to keep the salt off.Better invest in the Nuvite,and polisher.Then you can use the wax.Good luck,Dave
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Old 02-06-2009, 10:32 PM   #176
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Hi,

How do the remove the pits without damaging the rest of the panel?
Included are a few pics of my first panel.

I polished the bottles, they were easy.
Pic included.

I've been using Nuvite 7, 5, Met-All, I have S for the final polish.

I have a compound polisher, wool pads, and the Cyclo from VTS.

Also the roof is white with little bumps all over it.
I have washed it.
Sides are in good shape.

Who sales the aluminum oxide sandpaper?
Tried Advance Auto, Auto zone, Lowe's & H Depot.
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Old 02-07-2009, 06:14 AM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yochanan View Post
My 72 Tradewind is under cover but right by the beach..... Which is where I need it.

Tragically.....that location will be a death sentence for old "Nancy". (Yes, named after Nancy Reagan....)

It's difficult to watch the slow demise as the worm corrosion takes the upper
hand... All I can do, it seems, is to keep it washed. Damn.... very sad. Waxing has not helped at all but perhaps actually accelerated the process.

The "Land Yacht" plates on each side were refabricated by a previous owner
and the corrosion at that contact point is horrendous. I think I will drill the rivets and remove them to try to save the skin.
Your comment re the Land Yacht plates gives me an idea. How about a "sacrificial anode"? This is a piece of softer more reactive metal. You fasten it onto the metal you want to save and it corrodes instead.

I believe outboard motor trim tabs are made of magnesium alloy for this reason. They dissolve and save the aluminum motor.

Have heard that zinc will do the same for a steel car.

Maybe that's what happened to the original Land Yacht plates??

If there are any metalurgists in the crowd maybe they will chip in here??
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Old 02-07-2009, 06:26 AM   #178
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Here is a Wikipedia entry on sacrificial anodes.

Sacrificial anode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It says they work best on objects immersed in water or soil and do not work on objects exposed to air.

This site refers to pipelines (in the air) being protected by BURIED anodes. So maybe the thing to do would be to bury your anodes and connect to the trailer by a wire.

sacrificial anode: Definition from Answers.com

Here is more of an engineering site with details of anode materials, efficiency etc.

Sacrificial anodes
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:59 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverwanabe View Post
Hi,

How do the remove the pits without damaging the rest of the panel?
Included are a few pics of my first panel.

I polished the bottles, they were easy.
Pic included.

I've been using Nuvite 7, 5, Met-All, I have S for the final polish.

I have a compound polisher, wool pads, and the Cyclo from VTS.

Also the roof is white with little bumps all over it.
I have washed it.
Sides are in good shape.

Who sales the aluminum oxide sandpaper?
Tried Advance Auto, Auto zone, Lowe's & H Depot.
I found the aluminum oxide at an auto body supply store. That is my understanding that is the only place it is sold.
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:33 AM   #180
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1971 23' Safari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank's Trailer Works View Post
I buy mine at a local auto parts store, I suggest you check them for some. There must be an auto body supply house near you. Here is a site I found just by doing a goggle search that has the good stuff...Car Abrasives, SUNGOLD WET OR DRY SHEETS The sun gold brand is very good quality and it comes in many grits.
Sorry to bump this thread but thought to add some info as it was pointed out that silicone sandpaper should not be used on aluminum but rather wet/dry sandpaper that is aluminum oxide based. It turns out that the Sungold branded wet paper is silicone, not aluminum oxide based. To make matters worse, the 3M wetordry sand paper aluminum oxide based papers only go up to 800 grit. 1000 grit + is only silicone based.
Part numbers for the aluminum oxide 3m sheets are:
32040=320 (aluminum oxide)
32038=400 (aluminum oxide)
32036=600 (aluminum oxide)
32035=800 (aluminum oxide)
I've ordered Nuvite F7 as previously recommended but now think to order a 1 lb. jar of F9 as well since it seems that I can not get wet/dry sandpaper that is any higher than 800 grit.
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