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Old 06-08-2008, 10:26 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by ckeysor View Post
OK, I have been promissing picture so my oxidation and the current status. I spend the weekend sanding all over and have some pics.

The upper left is the difference showing the front cone and the side. The front cone on the upper right had bad filoform also, but I sanded it down. Note that although my aluminum still looks pretty and reflective, it is not al-clad and will not mirror.

Middle left, I am re-doing my stripe also. Having it painted on this time, as I am never peeling it again. I found a good process to strip the tape that wasn't degraded on the forums, but anything that was degraded from the sun wouldn't come off easily. On one of the trips to the body shop supply store I found an "erasure" type of attachment for the drill that erased it right off. I will post the name and pics for that on another forum. Middle right and lower are both aluminum trims that have substantial filorom. The electric cover has been sanded an looks good. The wheel well trim is real bad, also.
Chris, Wow! Looks great! Keep up the good work. And you certainly do have a case of filiform there. Thanks for posting the pictures of both before and after. The after photos are especially nice. Are you still using the power sander? I'd like to try one. Also your work around those rivets looks great. How are you working in so close, next to the rivets?

I'd also like to see more photos of other really bad cases of filiform corrosion. Maybe others on the forum have cases worse than what we've been seeing here on this thread so far? Don't by shy! We'd love to see it.

BTW here's my work from today on the front corner roadside panel using only the 340 grade wetordry sandpaper by hand.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:01 AM   #142
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I am just about ready to start on my 96 AS, 30Ft roof line. When applying the Removal do I need to protect areas with caulking or the rivets?
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:11 AM   #143
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I am just about ready to start on my 96 AS, 30Ft roof line. When applying the Removal do I need to protect areas with caulking or the rivets?

Hello Easyriser! Good question. Concerning caulking I don't know exactly because my roofline had zero clearcoat remaining after years of exposure to the sun. So I didn't apply stripper to the roof. I did brush the stripper around the windows and caulking and didn't worry about doing so. I used lots of water for the cleanup. Concerning the rivets I just brushed the stripper on without regard for the rivets. Maybe some of the others who follow this thread will share their experiences with this question! Especially those with later year model trailers. Your '96 may have different issues than my '75?
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:01 PM   #144
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Same panel as seen in post 141 but after hand sanding with 400 and 600 grade wetordry sandpaper. I'm not sure if the difference between the sandpaper grades is evident in the photos but it's definitely distinguishable in person. Next up, grade 1000, then the polish.
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SECRET WEAPON for hand sanding. A small sponge to wrap the paper around makes a big difference for nice and even wet sanding. I didn't like the sanding blocks. Sometimes it takes me a while to catch on!
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:10 PM   #145
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Here are a few close ups. This is after 400 grade wetordry sanding. Nice the light uneven streaks that happens with bare hands.
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This is after 600 grade wetordry sanding AND using the sponge with the paper. Much nicer and even finish. No streaks. What you see are shadows.
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And here notice the before-and-after-sanding degree of the filiform corrosion. But hey, never fear, this trailer will shine once again! Filiform: be gone!
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:21 PM   #146
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Progress!
Thanks for sharing.
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:22 PM   #147
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Next up, grade 1000, then the polish.
There's also 2000 grit, may save you a bit of effort in the polish stage. FWIW.
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:52 PM   #148
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Todd, I think you will be happy if you were to start up on top. The mess will all run down hill and make the parts you have done look bad. You are doing a fine job though. Maybe 100 or so more hours and you will be half done.
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Old 06-22-2008, 08:37 PM   #149
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There's also 2000 grit, may save you a bit of effort in the polish stage. FWIW.
Dave, thanks. Next time I'll pick up some 2000. It sure seems like the polish is labor intensive and the paper much quicker.

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Todd, I think you will be happy if you were to start up on top. The mess will all run down hill and make the parts you have done look bad. You are doing a fine job though. Maybe 100 or so more hours and you will be half done.
Frank, I started down low just to experiment. Now five panels later... But you're right I should be on top. However, since the shell is precariously balanced on cinder blocks I'm thinkin' I could easily end up SHELL SURFING down the hill at the end of the driveway if I crawl up there and start polishing!

I'm trying to picture that! Hmmmm....sounds like fun...
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:45 PM   #150
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filiform background data

I have a client who is in aircraft mechanics school. So I was lucky to get a peak into one of the repair manuals. Amazing what one finds looking in the right place.

The following is excerpted from the Department of Transportation, Federal Aviations Administration, Advisory Circular, outlining Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices --Aircraft Inspection and Repair.

"6.16. FILIFORM CORROSION. Filiform corrosion is a special form of oxygen concentration cell which occurs on metal surfaces having an organic coating system. It is recognized by its characteristic worm-like trace of corrosion products beneath the paint film. Polyurethane finishes are especially susceptiable to filiform corrosion. Filiform occurs when the relative humidity of the air is between 78 and 90 percent and the surface is slightly acidic. This corrosion usually attacks steel and aluminum surfaces. The traces never cross on steel, but they will cross under one another on aluminum which makes the damage deeper and more severe for aluminum. If the corrosion is not removed, the area treated, and a protective finish applied, the corrosion can lead to inter-granular corrosion, especially around fasteners and at the seams. Filiform corrosion can be removed using glass bead blasting equipment or sanding. Filiform corrosion can be prevented by storing aircraft in an environment with a relative humidity below 70 percent, using coating systems having a low rate of diffusion for oxygen and water vapors, and by washing the aircraft to remove the acidic contaminates from the surface."
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:59 PM   #151
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Yep. While you are looking, look in AC 43.13-1B/2A Chapter 4
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Old 06-24-2008, 01:13 PM   #152
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Wow! The magician's magic book! Kip, I was hoping you might be proud I had happened on this manual. Looks like this client won't getting his copy back! That or I'll be getting a copy for myself.
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Old 06-24-2008, 01:46 PM   #153
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Here's the electronic version

http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2004.pdf
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Old 07-05-2008, 06:34 AM   #154
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Hey Todd, Soon you will be done with all that wet sanding and you will move on to compounding. Then when you finish that, this will be you...
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And then, it will look something like this....
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