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Old 07-31-2013, 05:36 PM   #15
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68Twind, thank you for sharing your thoughts; I greatly appreciate any and all information anyone is willing to share. I was warned by someone not to stay on the rivets for too long as they could flaten out, so I always tried to move on/off quickly. I didn't get to the pink bar, I'm thinking I might try it on one skin to see how it does, and I'll keep in mind your warning too.

I think I ordered the Nuvite G-9; G-7; and "S", of course the "S" is being held back for the final. The Nuvite G-9 -- I didn't think cut the oxidation and burned in mess as quickly as the black rouge bar, but in the end did well. On a spot, we tried the G-7 after the G-9 and it felt a little lacking and I'm thinking that perhaps I should have also ordered the "C", but I'm not certain about that letter being correct.

I am waiting for DH to do his thing to the top of the trailer (where I can't reach, I'm short), so that I can get this polishing completed!! I feel as tho I'm chomping at the bit. What hasn't helped is all of this rain we've had, but I'm not really complaining -- it's much better than a drought as so much of our country is having.

When we were at the Good Guys car show in Columbus earlier this month, I bought some Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. I read on here to buy a good Carnauba wax -- has anyone had any experience with the Meguiar's Carnauba?

0557 -- Thanks for sharing. As soon as you mentioned the grey bar being too greasy, I thought, "Oh yes, that's it!". I remember being a little off-put by the grey and it was exactly that -- greasy.

Was your '92 Limited very oxidized? Had it been polished before? I seriously doubt our Bubble has ever been polished before.

Deb

Note: One thing I don't think I stated before, DH said last night he thinks the 1200 grit sandpaper is cleaning up the skins as far as pitting goes.
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:22 PM   #16
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Rake vs Spur

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Cruiser View Post
What I had thought was just confirmed.........my problems with polishing are operator error and/or lack of knowledge.

First, I didn't realize that I needed to "rake" the wool pads (when using Nuvite) over the "comb", which we have the same one you posted Top. We have it semi-permanently mounted on a work bench outside by where we are polishing and it is really handy -- I have been using it with the rouge bars. Can I use it with the wool pads too?

Secondly, I've not heard of an 8" treated, vented buffing wheel. We have been using 1200 and 1500 grit hook and loop for wet sanding. As Top said, it really takes the corrosion and roughness from that off as well as that burned-in tarp discoloration from a PO.

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Deb,
I think I may have confused you with how I worded my post.

The rake is used with the buffing wheels and compound bars-
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The spur is used with the wool polishing pads and Nuvite or the like.
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I had my son shoot a little video of some polishing that I did today on some filiform corrosion. I'll see if I can get it uploaded and post it on Abby gets all the attention.

The treated (stiff) and untreated (softer) vented buffing wheels are what I use. I know that Mr. Ranch uses them as well. I much prefer them over the spiral sewn or loose cotton wheels. They keep the surface much cooler and allow a greater amount of force to be applied than the non vented wheels. I buy mine from Caswellplating.com but they are sold by many polish vendors online and locally.
I would recommend you read "Polishing the Aluminum Falcon" by Darkspeed. The method he used is where I derived my hybrid method.
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:35 PM   #17
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I had a lot f filiform on this trailer, I managed to clean up quite a bit with various wet sanding levels, then went to black emery bar, which worked well but left scratches. So then i started grey bar which cleaned up some of the scratches. I am now at trying to get out the remaining scratches and call,it a day. My trailer is stored uncovered in the driveway, so I will be happy with a generally clean shine. It had come a long way from where it was when I found it, peeling, dull and dirty.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:02 PM   #18
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Do you mean cloudy like undercast or remaining surface oxidation? Are you raking the wheel periodically? It is possible to undercast the polish into the aluminum if the SF/min and/or application pressure are too great.

Okay, I'm using Jestco and until I read this thread I was pretty sure I burned through the alclad with the black bar in several small spots( I'm using the black magic bar). Major bummer

Using the Dewalt I used the loose sew buffs from Jesco, I tried the yellow treated airway but felt it was scratching too much. I keep the dewalt set at 3000 and use very little pressure. I used black , grey then white rouge. Everything was looking pretty good until I cycloed with S and there were these areas that just won't shine up, the areas are cloudy and seem to catch and hold the polish. Is this what undercutting is? I tried going over them them with the gray bar but no improvement. The areas are a solid hazy gray not a spotty oxidation.

So did I burn through? I really was too nervous about making the spots worse to really go after it. I was so disapointed I stopped polishing and moved onto windows .

If this is undercasting how do I get rid of it? I have both Jestco and nuvite systems, can do either....

This is what it looks like

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Here's it next to my hand to give you a sense of size

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Alansd Sorry to hijack! And I don't think I should be giving advice considering my problems above.... But I had no luck with the pink bar removing anything, i did an additional pass with the grey and followed it with the white.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:23 PM   #19
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Shelly,
I'm no expert but I have had luck on my '63 getting rid of those spots by using a wool buff on the grinder with F7 and making sure the buff is traveling across the direction that the rouge was. I slowed down the grinder to 2000rpm and on the bad ones it took 3 passes.

Then I went over it with the cyclo and F7
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:35 PM   #20
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Shelly,
I'm no expert but I have had luck on my '63 getting rid of those spots by using a wool buff on the grinder with F7 and making sure the buff is traveling across the direction that the rouge was. I slowed down the grinder to 2000rpm and on the bad ones it took 3 passes.

Then I went over it with the cyclo and F7
Thanks!
Then I have hope! Just to understand, if the rouge initially was scratching vertically then I should move the wool buff horizontally?
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:53 PM   #21
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Yes it was oxidized since the last complete polish back in 07 with Green cutting bar, and liquid heavy Metal Red, Green and Blue with a buffer. Never used the Nuvite.
Straight to Jestco Pink bars, and there was a lot of water spot burn in cloudy oxidation starting to bug me, so I tackled it during the month of June.
No two panels of aluminum are the same on some Airstreams.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:55 PM   #22
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step back 10 feet and those shadows disappear... To quote David Winick; "it's just a trailer" (I left a word out)
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:19 PM   #23
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Shelly,
If that is the worst flaw on the skin of your trailer, be very thankful! 90% of the people won't notice a few flaws here and there and of the 10% that do, only 1% would point it out. That 1% knows they aren't getting any cold drinks from your cooler, so don't sweat it!
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:41 PM   #24
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Thanks Top! It isn't the worst flaw by any means, but it is one i put there (as opposed to the PO)! Unfortunately it's at eye level by the door so I'm excited to hear I might be able to make it disappear! Thank you very much for your help
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:52 PM   #25
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Thanks!
Then I have hope! Just to understand, if the rouge initially was scratching vertically then I should move the wool buff horizontally?
You are almost on it. yes, the wheel worked rouge the vertically, the wool needs to push the F7 sideways. In other words, the top of the wool pad was doing the work in a sideways direction. I had a couple of spots that were very obvious where the sewn cotton wheel left vertical marks that were kinda white/cloudy. One area was a bad spot in the aluminum that actually has a pin hole with no evidence of an electrical short from the inside. Its almost like the wool 'moved' aluminum sideways onto the bad spot.

You milage may vary, it worked for me...once...and now that I have posted it...it will never work again.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:05 PM   #26
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You milage may vary, it worked for me...once...and now that I have posted it...it will never work again.

The good karma that you get for helping me will over come... it will work...it will work.... chant with me
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:05 AM   #27
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Shelly- those are the kind of cloudy spots I have as well. Also the scratches from the black and gray bars. I hope to get a little better look after the pink and more F7 ..but I will settle for the ten foot shine in any event. Or maybe a 20 foot....
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:41 PM   #28
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Shelly,
I'm no expert but I have had luck on my '63 getting rid of those spots by using a wool buff on the grinder with F7 and making sure the buff is traveling across the direction that the rouge was. I slowed down the grinder to 2000rpm and on the bad ones it took 3 passes.

Then I went over it with the cyclo and F7
I tried today with no success to get rid of one of the spots then I re-read this and it said you slowed the speed down to 2000?? I thought the wool buffs and nuvite were supposed to be used at no more than 1000 rpm? It may just be that the buff was brand new and the polish load wasn't great enough. It disappeared but then reappeared when I compounded with c. Polishing stinks.

Failing that, then what?
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