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Old 09-09-2003, 03:25 PM   #1
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Thumbs up Finally, got started ~

The Cyclo is hard to beat..

Here a sample of the lower panel of the door..
(just finished it today, minus the last stage polishing..as I'm still awaiting the shipment of my last polishing paste.
I'm using 'Nuvite' for this project..
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Old 09-09-2003, 03:29 PM   #2
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Here's another shot..

From another angle..

This gives a good side comparison of the before and, what it used to look like.

ciao
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Old 09-09-2003, 03:34 PM   #3
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Nice job on that door. Looking foward to seeing the rest of it.
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Old 09-09-2003, 03:44 PM   #4
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Thumbs up Looks Good!

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Old 09-09-2003, 08:41 PM   #5
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Kudos!!

...ours is new and it doesn't shine like that!

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Old 09-09-2003, 09:08 PM   #6
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Me too....

I just started today as well. I finally picked up a 1/2" drill to do the compounding. I used nuvite F7.

This is just once over with the compounder and F7....

Here's one pic...
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:09 PM   #7
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Here's another to show the before and after a little bit...
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:22 PM   #8
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Re: Finally, got started ~

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 53FlyingCloud
[B]The Cyclo is hard to beat.. [QUOTE]

Are you just using the cyclo and nuvite? Your not compounding first?

I tried my cyclo and nuvite C with the sweatshirt material and it did nothing on my trailer. The drill and wool bonet with F7 seems to be getting me somewhere.

But I have learned the different sections react different to the polishing. The side of the trailer looked good after one pass with the compunder. The end cap however, had take three passes and only looks about half as good as the side does.

What nuvite are you useing?

Looks great BTW.
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:26 PM   #9
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Thumbs up Neat Safari Tim

Looking nice~

Thanks Shari and, KIMILI..

I see that you started your's with F7 w/compounding.

Interesting,
Of course, it depends on the condition of your surface.

I wasted a whole day (?) trying several different grades of polish for compounding, then I tried G6 which took it right down to the clean surface. Followed this step with compounding with C.

At which point, I polished with the Cyclo, using F7.
Since I didn't have the final polish compound S, I'm just waiting for it to arrive to finish the area.

What are your plans for protection of the area after you're finished polishing??

Thanks to all for sharing and looking at the work in-progress.

This is gonna take a huge effort to complete in time..(Here that means before Winter get here...lol)
ciao
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Old 09-09-2003, 09:42 PM   #10
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Re: Neat Safari Tim

Originally posted by 53FlyingCloud
Looking nice~

>I see that you started your's with F7 w/compounding.

>Interesting,
>Of course, it depends on the condition of your surface.

Well, I don't really know what I am doing. That's for sure. But I figured to start with the least abrasive polish that I could so that would make less work to get the swirls out with the cyclo.

I figure I will go from F7 to cyclo with S. But I don't really know. I have a small jar of C to mess with if I need to.

>What are your plans for protection of the area after you're >finished polishing??

I have not really though that far ahead. I assumed I would just re-cyclo with S once a year or every other year.

>This is gonna take a huge effort to complete in time..(Here that >means before Winter get here...lol)

Good luck with your shedule. I am lucky enough with mild winters in CA so I can polish right on thorugh it. ;-)
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Old 09-09-2003, 10:38 PM   #11
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Lightbulb I read you..

Safari Tim

Talk about being 'lucky'...
Quote:
Good luck with your shedule. I am lucky enough with mild winters in CA so I can polish right on thorugh it. ;-)
My schedule was tight from the word get-go..
We normally keep the "Silver Turtle" at our place in Va Beach..
But, since we hosted a "Buddy Rally" here last weekend, I thought the least we could do was bring our unit back to NE for that. And, while here, I'd take advantage of the ease of working on it while it was here. Our plans are to attend one more rally in NE before returning to Va Beach, VA., late Oct...(if all goes well).

I did like you, at first..Tried to "baby" it as far as scratches goes but, then I saw this long scratch line on the lower portion of the door panel and, figured that the only real way to work it out was to get 'rough' with it. G6 polish compound will do this.(with some work)
While doing that, I noticed that it also clean out those sutle gray, fog discolorations rather nicely~!~!
It certainly left the swirls marking that so many talk about.. You know? Those literally disappeared once you hit it with the C polishing compound..
Then I brought out the Cyclo and, hit it with the F7 compound to make it really shine. If I had the S polish compound on hand, I just wonder how much more shine one could get in it..lol
BTW, once I did it really well with the F7, I then moved the cloth over the heads of the Cyclo to a fresh, clean area and, redid it..

I had this couple from LA., walk up to me at the campsite and, ask if I had just replaced the door panel...lmao...
They asked for and, got a tour inside..I needed a break..
Another little tip, wait for the skin temp to get above 60 degrees before starting any polishing. I'm not sure if that an issue with you, seeing that you're in CA..(you lucky dog)...lol
I also don't plan to do anything if that area is in direct sunlight..

My thoughts on protection was to use "Glass Wax" but, my supplier bottom out on me..So, I'm still open for suggestions in that area..

Good luck to you..~

ciao
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Old 09-09-2003, 10:48 PM   #12
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Scratches....

Are you saying the G6 compounding will remove scratches?

I have just noticed of course, several scratches. One is someones initials!!

I don't really know how to handle that. Today was just my first real test since I picked up a new drill.

It's working out better than I expected.

I don't want a perfect job because then the slightest thing like a bird poop on it would p**S me off ;-)
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Old 09-09-2003, 11:03 PM   #13
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Lightbulb You gotta try it~

Safari Tim

Yeppers~ It really will remove the scratch but, it may take 4 or more passes..Just depends on the level of the depth that your scratch marks.. Don't worry abt the swirls marks it leaves as they are cleaned up real nicely by compound polish using the C polish, followed by Cyclo with the F7...then S polish..

Note..just for proper edification..
"Compounding polish" always refers to using the hand drill.
"Cyclo polishing" speaks for itself..
I know it's mott the point but, someone else may be reading this and, not understand what we're talking about..

I understand in the very worse cases, some have used 400 grit 3M sandpaper first to work the scratch marks out..(This was in some cases, followed by 600 grit 3M sandpaper.) Again, this depends on the condition of your skin and, the level of polish shine you want..

I hear you about bird poop..YUCK, don't even wanta think about that yet...lol

ciao
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Old 09-10-2003, 06:23 AM   #14
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So Vern,

I see you're using campground electricity to shine your unit. Looks nice. Are you going to get it done before you have the cork floor done?

You know, it's got to be very embarrassing to drive down the road with partially pollished rig. I mean really Vern, once you start you have to finish it, and that's a pretty big trailer you got there. I'm sorry that I can't help you, real busy this weekend.

BTW

Thanks again for hosting the rally. Had a great time.
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Old 09-10-2003, 07:32 AM   #15
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*barge*

which rally(s) are you guys going to in the next month? maybe I'll see you at one.....
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Old 09-10-2003, 01:04 PM   #16
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Talking Just a few more..

I'd say this was about 4 hours work..Finis the top section of the door and,
the panel next to the door..


BTW, Mark..I'm glad you enjoyed yourself..
That's what it's all about..
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Old 09-10-2003, 01:08 PM   #17
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It really goes fast..

This section is almost finis..In that, I still need to do the final polish step..

All together, not a bad day's work..

Had to stop early as I'm meeting some 'out of state' friends for dinner..
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Old 09-10-2003, 01:12 PM   #18
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Rivet Just another shot of same section.

I can't wait to get this moving on the road.....lol

That section under the door's window is a long, long trailer. It hold the name of the PO..I forgot to strip that~!!
Oh well...more minor details..
ciao
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Old 09-10-2003, 09:47 PM   #19
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Question How much remains

Safari Tim

You're awfully quiet there...

How has the new drill combination been working for you?

looking to see more pictures..

ciao
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Old 09-10-2003, 10:05 PM   #20
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I contiuned on with the back end panel I originally tested with. I compounded with F7. It has only brought out a decent shine, not a clear mirror finish. Not nearly as clear as one of the side panels.

So, I guess I will just have to go over it a couple of times.

I also tried cycloing S over the side that I tested the F7 on and I find the cyclo harder and less results than th e compounding with F7.

I am still working the bugs out of my technique. I also have a generic backing plate and pad that is started to distort its shape. Having a problem finding a 3M stuff locally.

It's kinda nice/fun seeing the shine come thorugh as I compound. Makes me want to keep working on it so thats good.

Will try and post more pictures soon.

Love the drill. I went with a 1/2" Milwalkee. It has a great feature I didn't know about when I got it. A trigger lock!
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Old 09-11-2003, 11:46 AM   #21
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Question Why?

Safari Tim

Okay, I grant you that, "learning by trial and error" works. But, why beat yourself to pieces when I suggested a alt.??

Give it a try..
  • 1. Compound polish with G6...This means the entire panel that your working on..Don't switch to anything else until that panel is done..
    2. Compound polish with C
    3. Switch over to F7 with the Cyclo polisher and, do the entire panel.
    4.Cyclo polish with S, to finis the job.
BTW, in between the polish stages, be real sure you clean everything with a nice soft flannel cloth..CLEAN the rivet heads in between each step, etc..
You can end up with something like this...(Just did it this morning and, this was with not even using the S polish yet..)
I called "Perfect Polish" and they said that order was scheduled for delivery today...I'll do the final stage with the S polish when I get my hands on it..
As always, good luck~!!
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Old 09-11-2003, 03:30 PM   #22
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Thanks for your input. I don't doubt you either.

I just don't have any G6 and *the boss* keeps seeing receipts for "all that polishing stuff".

Between the tools and polish I have about $500 invested so far. And I still have three mouths to feed

I'm just trying to work with what I got for now. I may have to order a real backing plate and 3M pad from perfect polish anyway so I might get some G6 to try out.

I'll try and get some pic's tonight if I get some time to polish polish polish......
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:07 PM   #23
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Got a about 2.5 hours in tonight. Makes it about 3.5 hours total so far.

I contiuned to compound with F7 and had somewhat of a revelation. I sure everyone else already knows this

I found that if you move the compounder VERY slowly it works much better.

Anyway, I got a pretty good shine with swirls as to be expected. I may experiment some tomorrow and compound with C over the spots I just did. Looks really good a couple of feet away.

Do most people compound then cyclo and finish all the way each segment as they go? Or do they compound the whole trailer then go back and cyclo? Just curious.

Here are some pictures I promised.
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:09 PM   #24
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Here's another....
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:10 PM   #25
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One more...
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:25 PM   #26
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Thumbs up Really NICE~

Safari Tim

That looks nice~!
Likewise....I hear you about the others...
It's about the same amount here as well..But, the way I look at it, the Cyclo is an investment toward the care of the A/S..It will always be a part of the inventory. lol

As far as the steps toward polishing the unit..I've combined what's been recommended with, the condition of the aluminum skin.

You might want to try a small can of G6 first, just to see how it will work for you. I'd give Tom a call..(tell him you want a sample..lol)

Again, I hear you about the cost..The stuff is expensive~

Have you done any research yet on what to use to "preserve" the polish surface once your finis??

In reply to your question..I'd just do a sectional piece at a time..completely, before moving on to the next section..Like that upper panel you've started on..
In my case, the only reason why I moved on was the lack of S polishing compound and, time~
BTW, I did get my package from 'PerfectPolish' today, just haven't had a chance to open it yet..First thing in the morning...
I don't know about you but, at times I have trouble remembering what's been done. lol
Again, continue good luck~(it's a lot of work but...)

ciao
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:34 PM   #27
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Any tricks to cycloing?

I have the sweatshirt material and rubber bonets suggested by perfect polish. I tried it a little and found the the weight and movement of the cyclo is much more difficult than the compounding portion.

Do you move the cyclo up/down or left/right or does it matter? Do you push down hard or let the weight of the machine do the work?

I tested a little with it with C and S and did not see much improvement but I may have been moving it too fast.

Any cycloing tips will help!
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Old 09-11-2003, 09:42 PM   #28
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Tim ~ You may want to check out a Vintage Rally for some polishing tips. Usually someone will be demonstrating or would be happy to help you on your own trailer if you bring it. If a rally isn't feasible, contact a VAC member in your area, there are lots of folks in No. Calif...any volunteers? We'd love to show you what works for us...but we're a bit too far for a demo! Unless you have a trip to Denver planned...

Another idea, have you checked out the Swift Polishing Video? It can also be found on the Perfect Polish site. We found it to be very helpful, even though they demonstrate on an airplane. It helps to see "live action" polishing rather than relying on only words...

Good luck, what you've done so far looks good!

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Old 09-11-2003, 11:00 PM   #29
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Thumbs up All too true..

Safari Tim...

InsideOut (Shari) made a excellent point abt the video..

Concerning the movement of the Cyclo polisher:

I usually try to move from left to right and, then after several passes(depending on the results) switch the move to down and up. I'll rotate back to the sideway to try to smooth it out.
It also has alot to do with how I feel..As you know this lil puppy is heavy and, I find that, I'll switch position due to fatigue.. The other trick is, not to use too much polish at one time.
The amount of pressure really depends on which stage of polishing your at. In any event, I've never used any really hard pressure.
In comparison with the compounding polisher, I use very little pressure when using the Cyclo polisher. The trick is: To get as nice as finish as possible plus, I want to be able to watch for any changes in the appearances of the shine..
It's been stressed in all the reading materials to use the amount of polish sparingly. For lack of better wording, a dab or two about 1/2 the size of a MM works. I hit the machine on it first to smear it around then, switch on the polisher. BTW, you hit right on the head, slower speed is better. I have to admit, at times, I find myself speeding it up and, it just depends where you are at in the polishing process.
Again, Shari's suggestion is an excellent one..

ciao
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Old 09-12-2003, 05:57 AM   #30
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Just one question Polishers......

How are you going to do the area around the A-I-R-S-T-R-E-A-M letters

I am having a hard time getting *4* coats of paint off of my gas bottles. I may try "Aircraft Stripper", but am afraid of the toxicity of the stuff. Tractor Supply has what looks like a 7 gallon container of glass beads for $29. I may go that route instead.
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Old 09-12-2003, 06:26 AM   #31
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Lightbulb Good question

I may have to do that by hand..As the letters are not coming off..
ciao
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:22 AM   #32
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Thanks for the ideas.

I did get to go to the silver trailer gathering at Calistoga, CA this year. That is where I saw a demo on the compounding. I did not stay long enough to see the cyclo demo though.

It did get me excited enough and enough confidence to give it a try.

I am getting more comfortable with the techniques as I go. Just like everything else with this trailer I had to learn a new trade

I picked up a real backing plate and a 3M wool compounding pad today. I also ordered an adapter and pad cleaner from perfect polish. So I'm sure this will help speed things along.

I had been using a cheapo rubber backing plate and cheap wool pad. The backing plate is already deforming from use. So I new I had to get the real one. I finally found it at an automotive type paint store.

I am just a questioning kind of guy. I ask about every aspect of things until I understand them. I hope I'm not bugging everyone too much....

My wife says that I like talking the airstream more than actually using it!

Full cyclo ahead ....
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Old 09-12-2003, 08:02 PM   #33
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Cool If I may

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Quote:
I just don't have any G6 and *the boss* keeps seeing receipts for "all that polishing stuff".
If I may suggest :

Let your wife feel really important by giving her..her own account and, then...you can control your own spending spree...lol

After a few days of using the craftman polisher/sander, I decided to take it back and, exchange it for a 1/2 drill..My order from "PP" came in..The new attachments required the use of 1/2 drill.
The nice thing abt this whole transaction was; I got to keep the tool bag from the previous tool, plus the drill being on sales..they gave me another 10% discount..Craftman's model 900 drill is really neat too..I can't wait to try it out in the morning..~
Will post some pictures of that in the near future..
Finally got the S polishing compound as well..We'll see what that does to the overall finis..
That's about it..Polishing time gonna be rough what with two 12hour shift back to back..Gotta keep moving...lmao

As for cost:
All of the tools bought will go into the overall care and, maintenance of this unit..Well worth the efforts.
Keep up the good work Tim..
ciao
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Old 09-12-2003, 08:51 PM   #34
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I don't think I need the G6 yet.

My problem was wrong technique and I bet the new 3M pad will make a difference. I won't be able to try it though until next week when the adapter comes in from perfectpolish.

BTW the perfectpolish website suggests, compounding with F7, cycloing with F7 then the final step cycloing with S.

Of course they do say it all depends on the condition of the metal. So who knows.

But I am satisfied so far with my results.

I have one side that is always in the Sun after work. So I plan on starting that side tomorrow, since I can work in the morning on Saturdays.

Hopefully post some more pics tomorrow night...
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Old 09-12-2003, 10:16 PM   #35
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I Love G6

I don't think I could polish without G6!! ....

It is designed to start coarse and break down during the process.

F7 remains medium coarse through out the polishing.

I have had many fussy spots (Milky being the worst) wacked and shined by G6!

Get some G6 ... you won't be sorry!

Add another weapon to the mechanical and chemical attack on your trailer!!

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Old 09-14-2003, 07:06 PM   #36
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I got started polishing today and read this post cover to cover several times before starting.
I've got three things figured out.

1. Once started you can't go back.
2. Type of polish or makes no difference unless you do an absolut "perfect" strip job.
3. I'm to stuborn to learn from others and trying to do it with the things I already own instead of starting out with all the right tools.

After doing the top front panel about 4,000 times I realized you can't polish enough to remove the clearcoat.
After striping the door I polished the top half with Southern Shine and the bottom half with M.A.A.S couldn't tell the difference. I can read my t-shirt logo looking into the door. Will have to start over the top front panel. Looks like crap and all scratched up. Will have to wet sand paper before trying to polish that area again.
Door took around 2 hrs start to finish. Striped it with Aircraft stripper twice before starting to polish.

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Old 09-14-2003, 10:38 PM   #37
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Talking Cool Garry, Join the polishing club!

I have been experimenting polishing on my trailer. I found that these guys are right. I broke down and ordered some Nuvite G6.

Saturday morning I ran into some really tough spots on my main door. I think there was a small amount of clear coat left. Man is that impossible to polish off. I polished for about 2.5 hours on the top 6 inches of my door.

I will hopefully by Tuesday be able to start a new with my new 3M compounding wool pad and G6 in hand!

Can't wait.

Good luck to all who attempt this!!
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Old 09-15-2003, 02:30 PM   #38
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Did I read this correctly?

Garry

Quote:
After striping the door I polished the top half with Southern Shine and the bottom half with M.A.A.S couldn't tell the difference. I can read my t-shirt logo looking into the door. Will have to start over the top front panel. Looks like crap and all scratched up. Will have to wet sand paper before trying to polish that area again.
Note: I added the colors for edification purpose..

Does this mean that the "top panel" that, you referred to is the one that you cleaned with SS? Or, is it that, it looks like crap for some other reason?

Could you clear this up for me? Confused because you also said,
Quote:
couldn't tell the difference
ciao
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:43 PM   #39
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Sorry for the
The top front panel is next to the front window and it was scratched (by me) really bad. A tarp was over the front a long time ago and where the duct tape held the tarp left a discoleration and some scratching from the cover movement I made it worse using a scrub pad.
On the entrance door I striped and used SS on the top half and M.S.S.A. on the bottom half of the door. They both look good but don't have the deep shine I want. I will p/u up the 3M pads in the AM but won't have the HF buffer until Sat. I was using a Clyco on the door.
Today I used 600 - 1500 then 2000 grit wet dry sand paper and the scratches on the front panel are all but gone only the deeeper ones remain and you can barley see them.
Tomorrow it's back to striping.
MSSA is a paste polish I found at WalMart some time back when my wife was having problems cleaning some aluminum. Works good and less than $3 tube. I plan to do the Trailer Trash method starting Sat. using SS but will test the MSSA futher since I only have two of the SS.


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Old 09-15-2003, 09:46 PM   #40
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You guys are making me so jealous, my AS was polished by the PO, but now it's looking pretty foggy compared to how well yours are shining up. I'm definitly getting more excited about re-polishing it after seeing these results! Keep up the good work (big thumbs up)!
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Old 09-16-2003, 04:52 PM   #41
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Got in a few hrs stripping today and now have that down pat.
Using Aircraft striper I bought at Auto Zone $19 gal. I brush it on using a cheap throw away brush wait 15 min and then go over the area again with the brush, any clear coat that is not going to come off complety is very visable. I dip the brush in additional striper and swish it over that area and presto all clear coat is gone. I then use a plastic scraper (also from AZ) to scrape off the mess and then hose it down. Not a hard job at all. Where the clear coat was still in good condition I have a fairly good shine, at the areas where it is badly oxidized and the clear coat was gone it is still bad looking and I suspect it will take snading prior to polishing. My son is bringing a Harbor Freight buffer on Sat. I have the pads and will start to polishing for real. I did test the Cyclo using sweat shirts I bought at the thrift store for $1 each and they seem to be a very good for buffing.
For safety I use chem resistant gloves and saftey galsses. Should use a long sleeve shirt but its to hot and I haven't got any stuff on me yet.
Will be back on the stripping Thur evening.

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Old 09-16-2003, 06:42 PM   #42
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Not impressed with G6

Sorry, guys. I got my G6 in today and tried it along with my new 3m buffing pad and was not very impressed.

It did seem to help a little on some scratches but overall I think the F7 does a better job with less damage to remove later.

It is nice to have though. So I am glad I have a small jar of it.

I do have some questions about compounding.

1. How many times do you have to go over an area?

2. How hard do you have to push against the trailer? Super hard where your sore later, or just moderately and let the machine do the work.

3. After compounding I am finding some areas are a nice reflective mirror image then move over a few inches and its not so clear. Will the final cyclo step fix this or do I need more compounding?

OK, 9 hours and counting.....
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Old 09-17-2003, 12:13 AM   #43
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Lightbulb There seems to be no real ans..

Hi Tim..
Just back from my long weekend break and, I spend all of it polishing as I could..
This is my take on the use of G6/F7..
Either one will work, depends on the condition of the area that you're working on.
I'm using a 1/2" drill motor w/the 'wool' pad for compounding..
While this seems to work best, I do find at times for the closer detail work, that either I have to do it by hand or use another machine(polisher/sander) that has a flatter rubberized backing.
With it's narrower edge, it allows me to get in closer to the rib edges..
As far as how much pressure to apply, I'm finding that's a judgement call..It really depends on how the compounding process is going. Sometimes I find myself going over an area more than others because of the end results that I'm looking to achive.
Quote:
1. How many times do you have to go over an area?
That depends on the condition, naturally but..As long as I can get it down to a bright clear shine, I'll usually move on to the next area.
Quote:
2. How hard do you have to push against the trailer? Super hard where your sore later, or just moderately and let the machine do the work.
I'm not as young as I used to be<grins>, So I tend to let the machine do the work as much as possible. Still, I'm finding new muscles each day..I'd say not real hard but more along the moderate..I try not to create any more swirl marks than necessary but, if I need to in order to clear the area..It's okay because, I know I can clean them up later.
Quote:
3.After compounding I am finding some areas are a nice reflective mirror image then move over a few inches and its not so clear. Will the final cyclo step fix this or do I need more compounding?
The one thing I've found , so far, Tim..is that if it's not cleared up at this stage, it may not be any clearer at a later stage.
Now if you're talking about swirl marks, yes it will be but, the gray cloudy area should be, IMHO, cleaned up in the beginning stages.
I've not posted any pictures lately because...I've been working flat out..It's a slow process because of all the little compartment openings on this side..As of this morning, I've worked my way to the rear storeage area door.
Re-order some more polishing compound as the small jars were getting low..Going for one pounders now~!!

Hope this helps?
Keep up the good work`!
ciao
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Old 09-17-2003, 10:58 AM   #44
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Tim;
While I won't be able to do a good job compounding until I get the buffer I have found using the Clyco on a few test areas if you do not have the clear coat at "100% removal" you can't gat a bright shine it just stays slighty cloudy. When this happend I hit the area with the spray can Aircraft stripper wait a few and clean if off and presto the bad spot is gone.
Hope to be able to post pictures Sat.

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Old 09-17-2003, 03:19 PM   #45
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Update: 9/17/2k3

Here's todays result.

Finished the compound polish on right rear panel, using G6 with 1/2" drill and,'wool pads'. Still need to get the Cyclo polisher on it.
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Old 09-17-2003, 03:23 PM   #46
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Another angle shot

This shows the entire bottom section about ready for the finish touch.
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Old 09-17-2003, 03:26 PM   #47
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Talking Yet another shot

I've found that after using G6 that, if I switch to F7 with the wool pad on the drill, it cleans up very nicely
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Old 09-17-2003, 03:29 PM   #48
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Lightbulb One thought..

It's very important to "clean the panels" especially around the rivet heads..

The compartment doors, etc will be done later.
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Old 09-17-2003, 03:31 PM   #49
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Thumbs up Another cleaning chore is:

To keep myself clean, I wear rubber gloves..Wash often~!

It's worth mentioning that, there's alot of small areas that have to be done by hand..That is real easy..

Looks like the bumper is next...lol
This much in just a weeks time..Not too bad, considering 3 to 4 hours a day..(on the average).
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Old 09-17-2003, 05:26 PM   #50
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Show and tell time...

Here is my latest work.. The bottom portion.
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