InsideOut (Shari) made a excellent point abt the video..
Concerning the movement of the Cyclo polisher:
I usually try to move from left to right and, then after several passes(depending on the results) switch the move to down and up. I'll rotate back to the sideway to try to smooth it out.
It also has alot to do with how I feel..As you know this lil puppy is heavy and, I find that, I'll switch position due to fatigue.. The other trick is, not to use too much polish at one time.
The amount of pressure really depends on which stage of polishing your at. In any event, I've never used any really hard pressure.
In comparison with the compounding polisher, I use very little pressure when using the Cyclo polisher. The trick is: To get as nice as finish as possible plus, I want to be able to watch for any changes in the appearances of the shine..
It's been stressed in all the reading materials to use the amount of polish sparingly. For lack of better wording, a dab or two about 1/2 the size of a MM works. I hit the machine on it first to smear it around then, switch on the polisher. BTW, you hit right on the head, slower speed is better. I have to admit, at times, I find myself speeding it up and, it just depends where you are at in the polishing process.
Again, Shari's suggestion is an excellent one..
How are you going to do the area around the A-I-R-S-T-R-E-A-M letters
I am having a hard time getting *4* coats of paint off of my gas bottles. I may try "Aircraft Stripper", but am afraid of the toxicity of the stuff. Tractor Supply has what looks like a 7 gallon container of glass beads for $29. I may go that route instead.
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CP 9 miles off Exit 399, I75.
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce! Air # 283
I did get to go to the silver trailer gathering at Calistoga, CA this year. That is where I saw a demo on the compounding. I did not stay long enough to see the cyclo demo though.
It did get me excited enough and enough confidence to give it a try.
I am getting more comfortable with the techniques as I go. Just like everything else with this trailer I had to learn a new trade
I picked up a real backing plate and a 3M wool compounding pad today. I also ordered an adapter and pad cleaner from perfect polish. So I'm sure this will help speed things along.
I had been using a cheapo rubber backing plate and cheap wool pad. The backing plate is already deforming from use. So I new I had to get the real one. I finally found it at an automotive type paint store.
I am just a questioning kind of guy. I ask about every aspect of things until I understand them. I hope I'm not bugging everyone too much....
My wife says that I like talking the airstream more than actually using it!
I just don't have any G6 and *the boss* keeps seeing receipts for "all that polishing stuff".
If I may suggest :
Let your wife feel really important by giving her..her own account and, then...you can control your own spending spree...lol
After a few days of using the craftman polisher/sander, I decided to take it back and, exchange it for a 1/2 drill..My order from "PP" came in..The new attachments required the use of 1/2 drill.
The nice thing abt this whole transaction was; I got to keep the tool bag from the previous tool, plus the drill being on sales..they gave me another 10% discount..Craftman's model 900 drill is really neat too..I can't wait to try it out in the morning..~
Will post some pictures of that in the near future..
Finally got the S polishing compound as well..We'll see what that does to the overall finis..
That's about it..Polishing time gonna be rough what with two 12hour shift back to back..Gotta keep moving...lmao
As for cost:
All of the tools bought will go into the overall care and, maintenance of this unit..Well worth the efforts.
Keep up the good work Tim..
ciao
My problem was wrong technique and I bet the new 3M pad will make a difference. I won't be able to try it though until next week when the adapter comes in from perfectpolish.
BTW the perfectpolish website suggests, compounding with F7, cycloing with F7 then the final step cycloing with S.
Of course they do say it all depends on the condition of the metal. So who knows.
But I am satisfied so far with my results.
I have one side that is always in the Sun after work. So I plan on starting that side tomorrow, since I can work in the morning on Saturdays.
I got started polishing today and read this post cover to cover several times before starting.
I've got three things figured out.
1. Once started you can't go back.
2. Type of polish or makes no difference unless you do an absolut "perfect" strip job.
3. I'm to stuborn to learn from others and trying to do it with the things I already own instead of starting out with all the right tools.
After doing the top front panel about 4,000 times I realized you can't polish enough to remove the clearcoat.
After striping the door I polished the top half with Southern Shine and the bottom half with M.A.A.S couldn't tell the difference. I can read my t-shirt logo looking into the door. Will have to start over the top front panel. Looks like crap and all scratched up. Will have to wet sand paper before trying to polish that area again.
Door took around 2 hrs start to finish. Striped it with Aircraft stripper twice before starting to polish.
I have been experimenting polishing on my trailer. I found that these guys are right. I broke down and ordered some Nuvite G6.
Saturday morning I ran into some really tough spots on my main door. I think there was a small amount of clear coat left. Man is that impossible to polish off. I polished for about 2.5 hours on the top 6 inches of my door.
I will hopefully by Tuesday be able to start a new with my new 3M compounding wool pad and G6 in hand!
After striping the door I polished the top half with Southern Shine and the bottom half with M.A.A.S couldn't tell the difference. I can read my t-shirt logo looking into the door. Will have to start over the top front panel. Looks like crap and all scratched up. Will have to wet sand paper before trying to polish that area again.
Note: I added the colors for edification purpose..
Does this mean that the "top panel" that, you referred to is the one that you cleaned with SS? Or, is it that, it looks like crap for some other reason?
Could you clear this up for me? Confused because you also said,
Sorry for the
The top front panel is next to the front window and it was scratched (by me) really bad. A tarp was over the front a long time ago and where the duct tape held the tarp left a discoleration and some scratching from the cover movement I made it worse using a scrub pad.
On the entrance door I striped and used SS on the top half and M.S.S.A. on the bottom half of the door. They both look good but don't have the deep shine I want. I will p/u up the 3M pads in the AM but won't have the HF buffer until Sat. I was using a Clyco on the door.
Today I used 600 - 1500 then 2000 grit wet dry sand paper and the scratches on the front panel are all but gone only the deeeper ones remain and you can barley see them.
Tomorrow it's back to striping.
MSSA is a paste polish I found at WalMart some time back when my wife was having problems cleaning some aluminum. Works good and less than $3 tube. I plan to do the Trailer Trash method starting Sat. using SS but will test the MSSA futher since I only have two of the SS.
You guys are making me so jealous, my AS was polished by the PO, but now it's looking pretty foggy compared to how well yours are shining up. I'm definitly getting more excited about re-polishing it after seeing these results! Keep up the good work (big thumbs up)!
Got in a few hrs stripping today and now have that down pat.
Using Aircraft striper I bought at Auto Zone $19 gal. I brush it on using a cheap throw away brush wait 15 min and then go over the area again with the brush, any clear coat that is not going to come off complety is very visable. I dip the brush in additional striper and swish it over that area and presto all clear coat is gone. I then use a plastic scraper (also from AZ) to scrape off the mess and then hose it down. Not a hard job at all. Where the clear coat was still in good condition I have a fairly good shine, at the areas where it is badly oxidized and the clear coat was gone it is still bad looking and I suspect it will take snading prior to polishing. My son is bringing a Harbor Freight buffer on Sat. I have the pads and will start to polishing for real. I did test the Cyclo using sweat shirts I bought at the thrift store for $1 each and they seem to be a very good for buffing.
For safety I use chem resistant gloves and saftey galsses. Should use a long sleeve shirt but its to hot and I haven't got any stuff on me yet.
Will be back on the stripping Thur evening.
Sorry, guys. I got my G6 in today and tried it along with my new 3m buffing pad and was not very impressed.
It did seem to help a little on some scratches but overall I think the F7 does a better job with less damage to remove later.
It is nice to have though. So I am glad I have a small jar of it.
I do have some questions about compounding.
1. How many times do you have to go over an area?
2. How hard do you have to push against the trailer? Super hard where your sore later, or just moderately and let the machine do the work.
3. After compounding I am finding some areas are a nice reflective mirror image then move over a few inches and its not so clear. Will the final cyclo step fix this or do I need more compounding?
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All too true..
Good question
If I may
Cool Garry, Join the polishing club!
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