Finally, got started ~

[garry]

Got in a few hrs stripping today and now have that down pat.
Using Aircraft striper I bought at Auto Zone $19 gal. I brush it on using a cheap throw away brush wait 15 min and then go over the area again with the brush, any clear coat that is not going to come off complety is very visable. I dip the brush in additional striper and swish it over that area and presto all clear coat is gone. I then use a plastic scraper (also from AZ) to scrape off the mess and then hose it down. Not a hard job at all. Where the clear coat was still in good condition I have a fairly good shine, at the areas where it is badly oxidized and the clear coat was gone it is still bad looking and I suspect it will take snading prior to polishing. My son is bringing a Harbor Freight buffer on Sat. I have the pads and will start to polishing for real. I did test the Cyclo using sweat shirts I bought at the thrift store for $1 each and they seem to be a very good for buffing.
For safety I use chem resistant gloves and saftey galsses. Should use a long sleeve shirt but its to hot and I haven't got any stuff on me yet.
Will be back on the stripping Thur evening.

Garry

[Safari Tim]

Sorry, guys. I got my G6 in today and tried it along with my new 3m buffing pad and was not very impressed.

It did seem to help a little on some scratches but overall I think the F7 does a better job with less damage to remove later.

It is nice to have though. So I am glad I have a small jar of it.

I do have some questions about compounding.

1. How many times do you have to go over an area?

2. How hard do you have to push against the trailer? Super hard where your sore later, or just moderately and let the machine do the work.

3. After compounding I am finding some areas are a nice reflective mirror image then move over a few inches and its not so clear. Will the final cyclo step fix this or do I need more compounding?

OK, 9 hours and counting.....

[53flyingcloud]

Hi Tim..
Just back from my long weekend break and, I spend all of it polishing as I could..
This is my take on the use of G6/F7..
Either one will work, depends on the condition of the area that you're working on.
I'm using a 1/2" drill motor w/the 'wool' pad for compounding..
While this seems to work best, I do find at times for the closer detail work, that either I have to do it by hand or use another machine(polisher/sander) that has a flatter rubberized backing.
With it's narrower edge, it allows me to get in closer to the rib edges..
As far as how much pressure to apply, I'm finding that's a judgement call..It really depends on how the compounding process is going. Sometimes I find myself going over an area more than others because of the end results that I'm looking to achive.

1. How many times do you have to go over an area?

That depends on the condition, naturally but..As long as I can get it down to a bright clear shine, I'll usually move on to the next area.

2. How hard do you have to push against the trailer? Super hard where your sore later, or just moderately and let the machine do the work.

I'm not as young as I used to be<grins>, So I tend to let the machine do the work as much as possible. Still, I'm finding new muscles each day..I'd say not real hard but more along the moderate..I try not to create any more swirl marks than necessary but, if I need to in order to clear the area..It's okay because, I know I can clean them up later.

3.After compounding I am finding some areas are a nice reflective mirror image then move over a few inches and its not so clear. Will the final cyclo step fix this or do I need more compounding?

The one thing I've found , so far, Tim..is that if it's not cleared up at this stage, it may not be any clearer at a later stage.
Now if you're talking about swirl marks, yes it will be but, the gray cloudy area should be, IMHO, cleaned up in the beginning stages.
I've not posted any pictures lately because...I've been working flat out..It's a slow process because of all the little compartment openings on this side..As of this morning, I've worked my way to the rear storeage area door.
Re-order some more polishing compound as the small jars were getting low..Going for one pounders now~!!

Hope this helps?
Keep up the good work`!
ciao

[garry]

Tim;
While I won't be able to do a good job compounding until I get the buffer I have found using the Clyco on a few test areas if you do not have the clear coat at "100% removal" you can't gat a bright shine it just stays slighty cloudy. When this happend I hit the area with the spray can Aircraft stripper wait a few and clean if off and presto the bad spot is gone.
Hope to be able to post pictures Sat.

Garry

[53flyingcloud]

Here's todays result.

Finished the compound polish on right rear panel, using G6 with 1/2" drill and,'wool pads'. Still need to get the Cyclo polisher on it.

[53flyingcloud]

This shows the entire bottom section about ready for the finish touch.

[53flyingcloud]

I've found that after using G6 that, if I switch to F7 with the wool pad on the drill, it cleans up very nicely

[53flyingcloud]

It's very important to "clean the panels" especially around the rivet heads..

The compartment doors, etc will be done later.

[53flyingcloud]

To keep myself clean, I wear rubber gloves..Wash often~!

It's worth mentioning that, there's alot of small areas that have to be done by hand..That is real easy..

Looks like the bumper is next...lol
This much in just a weeks time..Not too bad, considering 3 to 4 hours a day..(on the average).

[Safari Tim]

Here is my latest work.. The bottom portion.

[Safari Tim]

53FlyingCloud, yours is looking really good. I might have to hire you to fix mine up!

Keep up the good work.

9 hours and counting....

[garry]

Tim; looks as if you are getting the technique down pat. Looks darn good.

53 FlyingCloud ; Looking good !! I noticed you have an area of missing clear coat near the top and it is oxidized. I have the same thing and tried to clean it today without much luck.
I tried the 600/1500/2000 grit sand paper but couldn't seem to get the shine ??? You tried to shine one of the oxidized area yet ??

Also I understand the new AS are painted white down the center of the roof and it lowers the inside temp by up to 7 deg. !!
I am thinking of doing the paint but the older units roof have a bigger curve and you would see the edge of the panel where the paint is. 7deg is quite a good trade off.
I think I am begining to understand why they told me $3,000 to polish my AS.
Got in two hrs of stripping today and am 50% done with the stripping.



Garry

[Safari Tim]

Your right Garry,

I will definately be doing some more clearcoat removal.

That stuff is impossible to polish off. I have several spots that did not get as good an application of the bix as others did.

I actually removed the clearcoat last year to make the trailer look better and had no intention of polishing it at the time

Originally posted by garry
Tim;
While I won't be able to do a good job compounding until I get the buffer I have found using the Clyco on a few test areas if you do not have the clear coat at "100% removal" you can't gat a bright shine it just stays slighty cloudy. When this happend I hit the area with the spray can Aircraft stripper wait a few and clean if off and presto the bad spot is gone.
Hope to be able to post pictures Sat.

Garry

[53flyingcloud]

Safari Tim

Kewl~!
It's looking great~
I see that you're making progress as well..I doubt if you can afford my service..lmao Like garry said, I also can understand why they charge so much..It's too much WORK..~!! But, you can ask anything questions you want for "free"..
.

garry

To ans. your question..
No, I haven't gotten to that area yet. I do figure that will be happening real soon.
I'm surprised to hear that..I have a secret up my sleeves that, after I try it..if it works, I'll share it with you guys..

ciao

[53flyingcloud]

A series of pictures to tie it all together..With some hints for a successful polish job.
First, this shows the final results of the "PP" method.
This covers all the steps needed to get to this final stage.
btw, that's my camping neighbor George, who came over to admire the results.
I will try to outline the steps taken with pictures, to get this kind of results.

[53flyingcloud]

Proper tools to do the job and, the desire to make it happen~
I used two huge bags, one for the compound polisher/Cyclo polisher/1/2 drill, and..the other to contain the polish compound/wool bonnet, terry clothes, flannel clothes..etc

[53flyingcloud]

All of the polish attachments, polish, etc

[53flyingcloud]

This was the 1/2 drill used and, the wool bonnet..MUCH USED.

[53flyingcloud]

The wool bonnet used to look like this one, in the beginning..lol

[53flyingcloud]

As it was used for this last step polishing the panel and door..
Plse notice the white flannel and, just how "dirty" it is..

I kid you not, that's the actual finis "used" results of my polishing effort..