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Old 07-20-2017, 01:16 PM   #1
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1968 24' Tradewind
Traverse City , Michigan
Join Date: Dec 2013
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During Polishing, Removing problem... tint?

Hey Gang, tackling the polish on a never before polished 1968 Tradewind. The clearcoat was in shambles towards the top, decent from the shoulders to the ground. Removed with Citristrip. Worked okay but left me with problem spots and took a long time. A long time. I switched to Rustoleum aircraft remover. Worked like a charm, wish I had started with that one.

Nuvite Polish, started F9. Little coarser than F7 because of what I thought was some brutal scratches and oxidizing. Now on CII.

I'm getting these "waves" of tint or haze. It doesn't polish off, it doesn't wipe off, nor change with mineral spirits. Maybe a burn to aluminum, but I doubt that because I worked hard on some scratches and didn't get the same appearance in those known areas of hard pressure.

A) What is it?
B) Can I do anything within reason to get rid of it?
C) Any suggestions on Cyclo alternatives because I'm already $500+ in on this job and would like to avoid the other $300 if possible for the S coat of polish.

Thanks for your time
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:41 PM   #2
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1967 17' Caravel
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Try working on one of those areas as if you were trying to remove a scratch and see what happens. I think you just need to polish more. Looking good...I'm doing the same with my '67 Caravel. Most messy miserable job so far especially in Central Texas summer heat.
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:09 PM   #3
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Agree with above. Including the miserable part.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:38 PM   #4
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Sacramento , Arizona
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These are buffing or zebra lines my friend Dennis at DC super shine explains this really well.

"There's basically 3 major reasons why you're leaving lines, first could be the products/pads you're using, Second experience and third the speed your buffing at. With that said you need to remember that on big surfaces, you'll never get 100% of the lines/marks out you'll drive yourself insane if you try. Also for some reason often on larger jobs the aluminum they use is made of different "blends" so one panel might be one grade and the other the mix will be a bit different and you'll get a difference end result VERY frustrating but it's all part of the Job. So make sure you're using a white untreated or flannel wheel with 480blf Blue from Menzerna for your finishing compound. 3000 rpm polishers will always leave more lines then using a 6000 rpm grinder. Here are some other reasons for getting lines when polishing, Could also be that you went too fast meaning, each stroke you moved your buffer up too much leaving sander marks behind. Also could be that your making too many side to side passed before putting more compound on, remember less product and more often gives a more even shine. So that's a few things to look at and see what you need to do differently. "
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:59 PM   #5
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To answer your other questions
One way to get rid rid of those lines would be a wool pad and some metal polish on a orbital buffer works most times.
As far as cyclo alternatives unfortunately there is no cheap alternative really. I polish for a living and use renegade products and buffing wheels. But there are many companies that offer great products but your gonna have a good bit invested to switch now.
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Old 07-22-2017, 11:38 AM   #6
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Looks great don't be so fussy. I would be extremely happy if I could get mine 1/2 that shinny! But it is satisfying, so enjoy yourself.
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:45 AM   #7
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1968 24' Tradewind
Traverse City , Michigan
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Follow up.

First thanks to those who responded. The simplest answer was indeed, yes, it is an improvement and I should calm it down and just enjoy it instead of always working on it. Polishing a 50 year old trailer is not a job for a perfectionist!

But.

More polish. I believe this is a big part. I saw some results with more polish. Also saw that I started to gum up my pad much quicker. Balance would be nice.

Higher RPMs. I read a lot about lower RPMs going into this. Some pros who recommend 800 or so. The jar of polish reads 1200-1600. I gave it a whirl (see what I did there) at a higher RPM and it just burned the polish and made some hard to remove clauses of black. I don't recommend the higher speeds.

Slowing down passes, Mixing patterns. All good things to continue when polishing. And time. Think how long it will take you and times it by 10.
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Old 07-24-2017, 07:26 AM   #8
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1968 24' Tradewind
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And a picture or two

Comparing before to current (most IIC complete)
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:11 AM   #9
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Wow, just wow! They sure do shine up nice!
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:03 PM   #10
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Sacramento , Arizona
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I use 6000 rpm grinder and buffing wheel for cut and color. For finishing it's 2100 rpm. I use rouge however not metal polish.
I can cut faster and leave less lines than a a typical buffer.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:51 PM   #11
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1967 17' Caravel
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Yep, there are some polishing issues here it seems. Unfortunately, I cannot put my finger on it, but it seems too much pressure might be the cause. Also, maybe too slow of a motion (not polisher speed). Try a small area, with conservative amount of cutting compound (followed by polishing compound) with a light pressure and steady motion. Continue to polish until all polish is gone and you seem to just be polishing dry. Lighter and lighter pressure as the compound "goes away". The latter stages (when you seem to be polishing dry) is where you achieve the evenest results (is evenest a word?). Good luck and report back.
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