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Old 06-18-2011, 03:49 PM   #1
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
Del Gurney's Avatar
1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 349
Door Hinges look tired

I've an '05 25' Safari. It's in pretty good shape except the bloody door hinges and the handle to the right of entry have lost the clear coat and look shabby. (oxidized).
Know how to strip, polish and coat.
Don't know if / how to remove inner door frame/for-head bumper to access fasteners with out damaging something.
Anyone done this before...advice??
Thank you

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Old 08-16-2011, 03:01 PM   #2
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billiards's Avatar
2005 25' Safari
rochester , Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 58
door hinges/clean up

surie wish we could get some help on cleaning of oxid. d/hinges...have tried several cleaners ..none work..

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Old 08-17-2011, 03:49 PM   #3
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
Del Gurney's Avatar
1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 349
They'll have to come off and be sanded down to like 1200 grit then put on a polishing wheel and hands hurt thinking about it. In my youth on fancy yachts I did this all the's a project.

I just want to know how to remove them.
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:56 AM   #4
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2004 16' International CCD
Arcata , California
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Images: 5
I want to tackle the same problem. I was thinking of taping off the surrounding area and working on it in place. But a buffing wheel sounds a whole lot easier and I can see myself busting through the tape. It's a year later from the original post. Any new readers know how to get the door hinges off? Jamie
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:25 AM   #5
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Pics might help, but if your hinges are like mine, you'll find plastic chrome strips on the back of the trailer side of the hinge, held on with double sided tape.

Strip them off and you'll see large phillips screw heads. Remove the screws and the hinge comes off the trailer. HOWEVER, I believe the nuts will fall inside the wall. There is an aluminum strip on the inside of the AS to the wall side of the door. If you remove it, I believe you have access to the inside of the wall there. I have heard others say you have to use a small hole saw to access the nuts under the strip. I'd look under here first before removing the screws.

I think you have to remove the inner door skins to get to the nuts for the door side of the hinge.

I would buff/sand them in place. Fabricate WOOD shields for the AS skin out of luan or other THIN solid material and tape them in place. That should protect the skin, even if you get unwieldy with the power tools. I would try a dremmel buffer wheel for the really tight spots.

Not an easy job, any way you look at it. I haven't done it yet, but I have been studying up and trying to muster the initiative. I'll bet it'll 4 - 5 hours each, minimum, just to prep them.

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:38 PM   #6
"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
Del Gurney's Avatar
1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale , Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 349
Thanks Turtle and dnzfOg: I still am awaiting a way to really remove them with out polishing "in place" as I believe the oxidation will "work" it's way from under the hinges and I hate doing a 1/2 arse job.
On my TT it is obvious that I'll have to get to the nuts from the inside and it could be a nightmare if I make a mistake.
I had a PM from someone who did prep. and coat while they were left in place and it looked pretty good .... but still the chance of damaging the body panels if I "burn through" wood or plastic protective material will always be worry som.
And yes, the prep will involve at least a few hours for each hinge (assuming I punch out and replace the connecting pin).
Mine can not be the only TT with this problem so I await the advise of a professional who can tell me how to get the hinges off with out damaging the interior "mouse fur".
Cheers I'll post pics next time I can.

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