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Old 07-26-2011, 09:47 AM   #43
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I have some pictures of my 83 I have done a little work on the front but that is about all I have done been reading for the last few days,
Having problems on insert image any help would be appreciated
thanks
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:09 PM   #44
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kJOE- there are tons of pages of info here on polishing and the stripping with Removall.
A clearcoated trailer will look a whole lot shinier just after being stripped with no polishing done at all, unless it has some corrosion which requires more attention.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:42 PM   #45
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Thanks for the tip ,any idea where this can be purchased this product and any ideas on the Removall product some are talking about
RemovALL 220 can be purchased through Vintage Trailer Supply. It is great stuff to work with. The more aggressive products will burn your skin on contact, and aren't so great on the lungs either.

If, prior to beginning this process, your clearcoat is generally intact over most of the trailer, you will be amazed at how shiny and bright your trailer will look after stripping it. If this is the case, I don't think you will gain much by using an acid wash, since most of the aluminum (that has been protected by the clearcoat for all these years) will be free of oxidation.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:33 AM   #46
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aircraft stripper

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Thanks for the tip ,any idea where this can be purchased this product and any ideas on the Removall product some are talking about
The aircraft stripper can be found at Autozone.I used a mask with two filters and rubber gloves.I did a 28 ft. in 2 days with 2 coats.I left it on about 20 min.Do it in sections.check my thread"gutting the 65" I think I have some pics there.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:15 AM   #47
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you want the strongest most nuclear stuff possible. Aircraft stripper works for me.
Frank,
I too tried aircraft stripper when removing the clearcoat on my trailer and I am not a fan. While the citrus based products may take an extra application or two, you can remove them with a pressure washer without the fear of chemical burns and a horrible environmental disaster. I used VTS's RemovAll with good success, however I think a more widely available product, Citristrip, may be just as effective (although I cannot be positive since I started with RemovAll and finished with Citristrip -Welcome to CitriStrip.com). Have you ever tried this stuff???
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:35 AM   #48
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For me, the less applications, the easier it is for my client's wallet. Everyone has their comfort level, for me it is about getting it done efficiently and quickly. I have tried Citrus Strip and was not happy with the results, but glad it worked for you.
I have actually tried just about every stripper on the market. Currently, I am using Allpro Marine Stripper. I buy it at a place that supplies industrial boat yards. I have been told it has the highest levels of methylene chloride of any brand.
I want to add that if the clear coat was done by a third party vendor, there was a product, popular in the early 60's and 70's called etching clear coat. This type of clear coat is very difficult to remove. It leaves the surface, well, etched. The polishing of aluminum once removed is also more of a challenge.
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:45 PM   #49
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When you say etched are you referring to the squiggly little spots that appear after the clearcoat comes off? My 66 has a lot of those near the top, and they all look alike. Corrosion or etch or the same thing..just curious.
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:16 PM   #50
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the squiggles are filiform corrosion. It is caused by a small hole in the clear coat. Under that hole a crystal of aluminum oxide forms. The next time moisture hits the crystal, a second one forms. This keeps repeating until they build a trail under the clear coat that looks like a worm trail. This form of corrosion is very difficult to get rid of. Standard polishing does not take care of it. I have found very fine grits of wet/dry sandpaper are the only solution. It is not always 100% effective.

Etching paint does just as it implies. It etches the surface leaving a frosted surface.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:52 AM   #51
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Thanks, I figured that.. I have been doing the sanding and getting it to look better, but it will always be there to some extent. Luckily most of it is high up and I am not. ( tall that is)

Ever see the ALSA paints? wonder if their metal paints would be of any use. You'd probably have to fill the small crevices and then paint. Not considering that myself though some painted trailers look good from distance.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:18 PM   #52
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you want the strongest most nuclear stuff possible. Aircraft stripper works for me.
I think I lead you in the wrong direction this T.C. 310 I was told it would just remove all the dirt tar and oxid. and then I would have to polish it, so with that in mind, do you know of any product I could use prior to polishing that might help.
I ran across this web page by Orison Marketing claiming to remove oxide and make the alluminum brighter, do you think that would work for me?, as I am getting along in years I just want a product that will make my unit a little brighter ust to let you know where I am coming from.
I saw your unit and you did a great job but I am not looking for that kind of results may 20 or 30 years ago
Thanks
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Old 07-30-2011, 04:05 PM   #53
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If it is stripped already of clearcoat, that is the same product I used to brighten mine. If clearcoated it does nothing for you.
Start at the bottom, spray it on then move up brushing it as you go. Hose off when you feel it has been on long enough, I waited a few minutes. It will noticeably brighten up the finish.
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Old 07-30-2011, 06:50 PM   #54
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I used a professional hand held polisher by Dewalt. I borrowed one,then I bought a used one at a pawn shop. My 1960 had 50 years of oxidation that had to be removed. I bought three double sided removable polishing pads, Nuvite 9 and Nuvite 7. The moral of this story is a little Nuvite goes a very long way and A lot of Nuvite does not work. Technique, Technique, Technique. I watched one of the forum members show me how to use it and he cut through the oxidation immediately. It was my turn and no such luck. Once you get the technique it goes pretty smooth, but it is time consuming. Persistance, time and technique.

Check out this youtube (karate kid)

‪Karate Kid Lesson 1 (Wax on Wax off)‬‏ - YouTube

Here is a pic of the polisher




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Old 08-01-2011, 09:02 PM   #55
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it will be 100% ineffective. You need to remove the clear coat first.
Well 62overlander you were dead right no matter how long I left that acid on, the power washer which by the way was a 4000psi did nothing to the finish not sure which way to go now, I do not want to take the clear cote off, but make it a little brighter what do you think of that alum.brite it sounds as if that might do what I am looking for, what do you think
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:47 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
I used a professional hand held polisher by Dewalt. I borrowed one,then I bought a used one at a pawn shop. My 1960 had 50 years of oxidation that had to be removed. I bought three double sided removable polishing pads, Nuvite 9 and Nuvite 7. The moral of this story is a little Nuvite goes a very long way and A lot of Nuvite does not work. Technique, Technique, Technique. I watched one of the forum members show me how to use it and he cut through the oxidation immediately. It was my turn and no such luck. Once you get the technique it goes pretty smooth, but it is time consuming. Persistance, time and technique.

Check out this youtube (karate kid)

‪Karate Kid Lesson 1 (Wax on Wax off)‬‏ - YouTube

Here is a pic of the polisher




Brian
What do you use to get rid of the circular marks left by that tool?
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