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Old 07-21-2011, 01:56 PM   #21
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MR-
Where have you found the best place to get the "wheels" for the wheel type polisher? We still haven't invested in a drum polisher, and currently using small wheels, can't find larger ones locally and wanted your advice on where to get them.

THANKS!

Tina
This is a good place for all the polishing needs.
Buffing Polishing Supplies Buffing Wheels Compound Polishing Aluminum Polishing Kit - Caswell Inc.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:52 PM   #22
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I ordered treated vented buffs from there last week - they are good looking
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Old 07-22-2011, 04:02 PM   #23
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Thanks Shacksman - we'll be sure to look that up! We've been buying at Sears, and I think we've bought them out here, they haven't had anything the last couple of trips .

Tina
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Old 07-23-2011, 05:16 PM   #24
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I will try the aluma brite again between cuts. I also used some 600 grit and 1000 grit wet sanding on the serious corrosion areas, hope to buff it out afterwards. So far the Rob method of polishing has been working well, and is not too time intensive.
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:48 PM   #25
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What will the aluma brite do to the glass windows? Anything need to be protected?
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Old 07-24-2011, 05:45 AM   #26
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What will the aluma brite do to the glass windows? Anything need to be protected?
The instructions for ours said to apply with a brush. We used a long handled car wash brush and just avoided the windows. No problems.

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Old 07-24-2011, 06:00 AM   #27
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can you post photos?

You need to be sure to rinse it of though-rally then do it again. I suggest you rinse a third time too, then seal the seams well.

I use a one gallon tank sprayer. Working from the bottom up. The glass is not effected. I cannot say what it does to the lights, for they are removed before this stage to make the entire job easier. Blue tape holds up very well to the moisture and if peeled off within 7 days leaves no glue behind.
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:01 AM   #28
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Between cuts is how my polish guy does it.
There's our real problem; we don't need a polishing product... we need a polishing guy!
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Old 07-24-2011, 07:20 AM   #29
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Brad, I have that guy just North of me. Unfortunately the last 10% must be done by me. My standards are just a little higher.
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:33 AM   #30
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Gojo

I used Golo hand cleaner to clean off the dirt and corrosion before gray bar.It smoothed and lubricated the surface somewhat.
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:08 AM   #31
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I found the aluma bright to be somewhat mild, it did nothing to the glass and did brighten up the skin. I covered my plexi window though.
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Old 07-24-2011, 04:48 PM   #32
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And where are you buying alums right?
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:40 PM   #33
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Aluma- nator came through a web site I found here..

Aluminator Aluminum Oxide Remover and Aluminum Brightener
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:49 PM   #34
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NAPA has the stuff. Freightliner has the stuff too. There are many brands of the same stuff.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:20 PM   #35
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Hi I just purchased a 1983 31' Diesel Motor home and I am in the process of trying to restore it a little better, I have a son-in-law who works for a company who has a fleet of trucks and they use an alum. cleaner called T.C. 310 and his drivers swear by the result.
I tried it with an electrical water pressure and the results were not very good, so tomorrow I am renting a 2600 psi washer in hopes that it will do the job, I will keep you advised of the results
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:59 PM   #36
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it will be 100% ineffective. You need to remove the clear coat first.
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:58 PM   #37
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Hi I just purchased a 1983 31' Diesel Motor home and I am in the process of trying to restore it a little better, I have a son-in-law who works for a company who has a fleet of trucks and they use an alum. cleaner called T.C. 310 and his drivers swear by the result.
I tried it with an electrical water pressure and the results were not very good, so tomorrow I am renting a 2600 psi washer in hopes that it will do the job, I will keep you advised of the results
Ken
If you are trying to remove the old clearcoat, you HAVE to use a stripper. Clearcoat has got to be one of the toughest things known to man. You cannot pressure wash it off, or "polish" it off, even with the most aggressive grade of Nuvite (F-10). Get hold of some "Removall". It will lift the clearcoat with ease, THEN use your pressure washer to blast off the residue.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:52 PM   #38
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kenjoe - When you've used the Removall to remove the clearcoat, if you want a shine you'll still have to use one of several methods discussed here (both products & tools) to remove your Moho's oxidation. Then you'll need to use other products & tools to achieve that mirror shine. Lots of time & work, but sooo worth it. Post photos as you progress.
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:16 AM   #39
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Thanks for the tip on clear coat removal, any product name would sure be helpful I am like a baby just starting to walk the info is over whelming
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:26 AM   #40
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I have been reading so much information about restoring it's hard to take it all in, so as I understand it I have to remove the clear coat 1st and then apply the TC310 alum. cleaner and then polish it to seal it.would appreciate any tips on restoration as well as what products seem to work the best
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