Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-12-2013, 10:49 AM   #1
New Member
 
2007 28' Safari
Milwaukee , Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
Unhappy corrosion on aluminum exterior

on some of the edges between sheets of aluminum i have a white corrosion starting which i would like to remove without damaging the surface below which is the normal satin finish. i have a 2007 28' safari. I understand that a clear krylon spray after removal of the corrosion is proper. I would love some recommendations on the best way to remove the corrosion.
__________________

__________________
bobgariepy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 11:36 AM   #2
3 Rivet Member
 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
Merkel , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 139
While I am relatively new at this myself, I think the the recommended treatments are Boeshield T-9, which was developed by Boeing, and Corrosion X Aviation, among others. These are supposed to help remove corrosion and protect the trailer. Seems like there may be others available that I can't recall but someone else will chime in with more information. The first of these is available from the Airstream store and maybe both are. Amazon also may have one or both. Good luck in the treatment and welcome to the forum.
__________________

__________________
afneill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 12:19 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,716
Unless the corrosion is especially hideous and up into the rivets, it may be best to control it rather than remove it. Depending upon its presence near salt water or winter road salt, you may want to treat it monthly after each wash, or annually.

I have found CorrosionX and Boeshield T-9 to be effective, getting into the corrosion up under the clear coat finish where it spreads, displacing moisture, and preventing it from spreading.

Boeshield leaves a paraffin wax film after it dries, and it a heck of a mess to get off the panels. Don't spray it on, wipe in on with rag very sparingly, let it soak awhile, then go back and lightly wipe off the excess. I use a Q-tip dipped in a cap of it to run along all the cut edges and rivets, then wipe in on the fittings.

For me, I like CorrosionX on the body shell because it works well and is less messy. I like Boeshield T-9 to spray all steel components under the trailer because it leaves the paraffin wax coating, while its solvents carry into the crevices.

It you must remove the corrosion, do as little damage to the surrounding clear coat as possible. Tape it off for protection and recoating. Do not use Dremel or other power tools which are too aggressive for this small job on thin aluminum, rub it off carefully with small handheld tool or abrasive.

The reason for the filiform corrosion is the panels are clear coated by Alcoa company, then cut and drilled by Airstream to assemble the trailer. Every cut and drilled edge is unprotected metal, moisture and salt will start the corrosion then follow it up under the clear coat like little white worms.

As things are, it is up to us as owners to regularly treat these cut/drilled (rivets) edges to prevent it. This treatment should be applied as soon as we bring the Airstream home, then regularly as part of a maintenance schedule that would be dependent on your location/use near corrosive environments (coast or salted roads).

doug k
__________________
dkottum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 06:35 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
2010 27' FB Classic
N/A , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,717
dkottum,

I have not used either product on the rivets or on the outside aluminum of my trailer. I have used T9 in the trunk drawer and on the exposed frame and it does a nice job.
Are you saying that you use Boeshield T9 on each rivet with a Q tip and then use Corrosion X sprayed on the entire Aluminum body of the trailer?
Also do you wipe it all off then wash and wax or not just leaving the coating of Corrosion X as a protective barrier to the elements too or do you wax over it?
__________________
Bluto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 07:00 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,716
My words always betray me, Bluto, sorry.

I use only CorrosionX (Q-tip or rag) on the shell, and only Boeshield (spray) under the trailer. Then wipe off excess from the shell. Only the cut edges/rivet holes, not the panel surfaces, need protection with these products, unless there are scratches.

It seems to stand up to weather and washings. I wax over everything on the shell to protect the clear coat after corrosion treatment.

Airstream Service Center and Store seems to like the wax products from "Glare". Apparently it has some glass element in it that resists ultraviolet light. That would be good, so I bought some and put it on last fall.

doug k
__________________
dkottum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2013, 11:40 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
2010 27' FB Classic
N/A , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,717
Doug,

It was good of you to explain.
It sounds like a good plan of attack and it will be part of my yearly routine.
Thanks!
__________________
Bluto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2013, 09:51 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
Larry C's Avatar
 
1996 34' Excella
Elberta , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 745
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluto View Post
Doug,

It was good of you to explain.
It sounds like a good plan of attack and it will be part of my yearly routine.
Thanks!
Corrosion X is an excellent product, and widely used in the marine industry here in Lower Alabama. It seems a bit expensive, but a can of it lasts for a long time. I've used it on our Airstreams, and am pleased.
For whatever it's worth.
Larry
__________________
Old age is coming at a really bad time!

1996 34' Excella 1000, interior totally redone, 2003 Dodge/Cummins HO, U.S. Gear exhaust brake, Diablo tuner, 115 gallon aux fuel, Bedslide, Airsafe/Reese Dual Cam, and a bunch of other stuff
Larry C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2013, 02:26 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
2010 27' FB Classic
N/A , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry C View Post
Corrosion X is an excellent product, and widely used in the marine industry here in Lower Alabama. It seems a bit expensive, but a can of it lasts for a long time. I've used it on our Airstreams, and am pleased.
For whatever it's worth.
Larry
I'll get some during my next buying spree.
__________________
Bluto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 06:31 PM   #9
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobgariepy View Post
on some of the edges between sheets of aluminum i have a white corrosion starting which i would like to remove without damaging the surface below which is the normal satin finish. i have a 2007 28' safari. I understand that a clear krylon spray after removal of the corrosion is proper. I would love some recommendations on the best way to remove the corrosion.

Posts 1339 to the end....

It's a "War & Peace" thread but well worth checking out.

FWIW....I don't use the X stuff or Boeing shield, to me it looks werse than the filiform, others have there own methods.

Bob
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 05:11 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,716
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Posts 1339 to the end....

It's a "War & Peace" thread but well worth checking out.

FWIW....I don't use the X stuff or Boeing shield, to me it looks werse than the filiform, others have there own methods.

Bob
Hi Bob, I've had good luck with CorrosionX and Boeshield without a mess, or filiform on the new trailer.

What product were you using before you needed your corrosion repair?

doug
__________________
dkottum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 07:07 PM   #11
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
Prevention...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Hi Bob, I've had good luck with CorrosionX and Boeshield without a mess, or filiform on the new trailer.

What product were you using before you needed your corrosion repair?

doug
Just what works for me...

Our trailer needed filiform repair right from the dealer.
After repairing/sealing
I started with Walberize, then X and beo.
I settled on Griot's paint Sealer once once a year, applied/removed with Porter Cable orbital, much easier/faster and lasts longer than any of the others. Easy touch-up with Griot's spray wax. SFSG



Bob
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2013, 02:59 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
2010 27' FB Classic
N/A , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,717
Those of you that are using the Corrosion X, what formula is the best for our application on rivets, edges of sheets, etc,?
I see it comes in an Aviation formula, regular X (red label), and HD (blue label).
__________________
Bluto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2013, 12:54 AM   #13
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,716
I have been using the Aviation formula, because like most aircraft, it is aluminum panels riveted to an aluminum frame.

Stopped corrosion from spreading on my 2007 Airstream and has prevented any on the 2012.

doug k
__________________
dkottum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2013, 09:58 AM   #14
Rivet Master
 
Larry C's Avatar
 
1996 34' Excella
Elberta , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 745
I've used the regular for years, and it's worked fine. It also is great for battery terminals, and the 7 prong connectors
Good luck
__________________

__________________
Old age is coming at a really bad time!

1996 34' Excella 1000, interior totally redone, 2003 Dodge/Cummins HO, U.S. Gear exhaust brake, Diablo tuner, 115 gallon aux fuel, Bedslide, Airsafe/Reese Dual Cam, and a bunch of other stuff
Larry C is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.