You will need the swaetshirt material. The bonnets are just an underlying component of the buffer heads. They are too harsh of a material to be used polishing on their own. Even if they were they would load up with residue very quickly. The sweatshirt material is an essential part of the cyclo technique. You will need to change the sweatshirt material under the heads very frequently, maybe only able to polish a couple of square feet or so before having to reposition it to a fresh spot under the heads.
BTW, You can wash them, just try and do it when the wife is not around!!
The bonnets ARE used in the polishing process .... The terry bonnets are use for the coarser grades of polish G-6 and F-7
They are NOT "too harsh" and are the best for the coarser grades
to do the dirty work ....
I use the sweat shirt material ONLY to remove the black grudge
that it stirred up by the polishing ... the sweatshirt material causes less preasure on the surface and therefore is much less effective on tough areas ...
I use the wool bonnets with the higher grades (Less and no cut)
C and S ... again using sweatshirt only to remove the polish ....
For the finish polish S ... I use the terry foam bonnet and again sweat shirt material to remove any residue ...
Perfect Polish has detailed instructions on their site .... on the polishing process and how to wrap the SS material on the Cyclo.
I disagree. The heavy cutting is done with the compounding polisher, not the cyclo. The cyclo is not meant for the harsher grades of polish. I have heard you say you only use the cyclo which makes me wonder how you are managing it. The PerfectPolish site recommends the compounding step first for almost all skins. The quality of shine will not be as great if the compounding step is skipped.
My 74 had a ever so slight mill finish and some filiform corrosion, I would probably still be at work if I didn't compound it first.
That with all the different trailers- ages conditions, care from previous owners, and exposure to various elements- you have to rely on more than one polish, or one system. You also need to be unafraid to break out the wet 'n' dry sand paper, and I have NEVER seen a trailer that didn't have ANY scratches, and wet sanding is the best way, in my worthless opinion, to remove them. A late 60's early 70's trailer that was protected most of its life by clear coat, is not nearly the same challenge as a 40's or 50's trailer from the desert.
People who are engaging in this venture of polishing their own trailer and try to follow a "one system fits all" approach will be in for a very time consuming and difficult surprise, or will create more difficult work by compounding with too coarse a grit and make it harder to remove more scratches than what were necessary to obtain a good foundation of the skin to be polished.
I'd make a recommendation for a starting polish and pads to get the first steps out of the way- but it would probably fall on deaf ears.
Really glad my system takes only 8-12 hours to get a decent shine and prep for the final polish... Life's too short...
I'm just starting a polish job, have polished one section using nuvite f and s with compounding and cyclo. Will try using cyclo with foam pads instead of compounding this weekend. May need different nuvite to get same results with cyclo. Cyclo is easier to handle!
What foam pads are being used with what? How many pads do you go thru?
whereabouts in Troy are you? I work in Troy and am getting ready to polish our 30' I'd like to compare notes on your trailer. Private message (PM at bottom of window) me if you don't mind.
hey if you and jason are going to swap methods i also work in troy at big beaver and 75 i would love to tag along and mooch information i haven't started polishing yet but it is my winter project any info would be great.
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