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Old 02-15-2009, 03:53 PM   #1
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Cleaning Window Frames

I finished restoring my Airstream trailer last year so I went and bought two Boles-Aero trailers from the 50s to restore. I like the wood work inside them better than the Airsteams. Anyway, I want to take all the windows out, replace broken glass, and replace all the window seals so I will have no water leaks. I have completed the door windows so far and used 0000 steel wool to clean up the window frames. This was a lot of work and there is some scraching of the aluminum I don't like. Has anyone used a product called Sharkhide Aluminum Cleaner and their polish? Does it work? Is there a better way to clean and polish window frames? I see nothing on the forum about window frames, cleaning and polishing.
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:00 PM   #2
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I would avoid using steel wool on aluminum. We use Scotch Brite pads, they come in various grades, and don't contaminant the aluminum.
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:01 PM   #3
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Let's see some pictures of the new project trailer. Did you buy two to use one as a donor? Ed
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Old 02-15-2009, 04:46 PM   #4
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I hope you are wrong Kevin about steel wool contaminating aluminum as that is what I used on all my windows of my Airstream to get the pitting and oxidation off. I don't see how it can contaminate it as it's only on there when it was being buffed. After two years it still looks OK to me. I was surprised Ed that someone wanted to see pictures of a trailer that is not an Airstream. I have them both under cover in a shed that's attached to my barn to keep the moisture off them untill I get all the windows and roof vents resealed. I never took any before pictures when I first got them so I guess I should do that this spring. The 55 is a 24' Ensenada from Arizona and I only have to replace one wood pannel around the roof vent. Very lucky. Everything in it is original except the refrigerator was missing. When I rewire and replumb it I will sell it.
After I bought the 55 a week later I found a 19' Mira Mar in Montana so I hauled it home too. All the wood has to be replaced inside and all the wiring and plumbing is trashed but it also is all original inside. I will keep that one as it's smaller. One kool thing. I have the original paper work for the 55. A Col. Preston G. Waterbury ordered it on 5-20-55. It cost $2,200 then.
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:03 PM   #5
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Shark Hyde

Shark Hyde works good. There is a thread on how it holds up: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...ant-42667.html

As noted, just use precautions such as gloves and a ventilator as it has the same organic solvents as spray paint.

Beckybillrae has also used it for her whole trailer.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:27 PM   #6
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This is just a suggestion that I used. we were doing some sheet rock work at the house and used a sheet rock spong that had a fine grit to one side.
It polished the aluminum really quick without any bad effects.
Take care
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:17 PM   #7
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"I was surprised Ed that someone wanted to see pictures of a trailer that is not an Airstream."

I don't know about others here but all these older trailer are worth seeing pictures of. I really like that you are trying to put the old girls back into a condition where someone will be able to enjoy them once again! Bravo! Ed
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:48 PM   #8
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Window Cleaning

This is the process I have used with good results. I start by cleaning the corrosion off in a three step process. First I use a small wire brush to remove the heaviest oxidation. Then I finish the job using an extra-fine foam sanding block and then Scotch-Brite. Once this is completed I polish the aluminum with either Met-All brand polish by hand, or if I am doing a complete polish you cab use Nuvite and the standard polishing methods. The Met-All polish is extrememly effective and easy to use in small area.

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Old 02-16-2009, 02:11 PM   #9
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Wink It's a residual issue...

Quote:
Originally Posted by custom67as View Post
I hope you are wrong Kevin about steel wool contaminating aluminum as that is what I used on all my windows of my Airstream to get the pitting and oxidation off. I don't see how it can contaminate it as it's only on there when it was being buffed. After two years it still looks OK to me. I was surprised Ed that someone wanted to see pictures of a trailer that is not an Airstream. I have them both under cover in a shed that's attached to my barn to keep the moisture off them untill I get all the windows and roof vents resealed. I never took any before pictures when I first got them so I guess I should do that this spring. The 55 is a 24' Ensenada from Arizona and I only have to replace one wood pannel around the roof vent. Very lucky. Everything in it is original except the refrigerator was missing. When I rewire and replumb it I will sell it.
After I bought the 55 a week later I found a 19' Mira Mar in Montana so I hauled it home too. All the wood has to be replaced inside and all the wiring and plumbing is trashed but it also is all original inside. I will keep that one as it's smaller. One kool thing. I have the original paper work for the 55. A Col. Preston G. Waterbury ordered it on 5-20-55. It cost $2,200 then.


If you have had good sucess with steel wool keep on scrubbing. It is great stuff. The problem arises when any residue is left behind, or becomes embedded into surface. Aluminum oxidizes into a dull gray finish. Steel oxidizes in to a lovely shade of rust, so any left behind will cause stains that are usually a familiar shade of orange, or black.

Scotch brite pads are used through out the alumunum industry to clean and polish because they do not leave behind oxidizing residuals. If you use steel wool, you may want to consider going over the surfaces with a NEW scotch brite type pad, or the sanding sponge (iron oxide free) to remove any contaminates.

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 02-16-2009, 05:15 PM   #10
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Window Frame Restoration

Thanks for the Scotch Brite pad idea. I will try that. I believe that it would hold up much better than steel wool also. I was about to try the Shark Hide cleaner and then I found something else while poking around on line. It's called Wicked polish. www.wickedproducts.com Its made for truckers and they say a trucker came up with the stuff. I ordered some and if it works as they say I will post the results. I still would like to try the Shark Hide sealer on the skin of my trailers and see how it does. If it can be maintained as they say with little effort what a way to go. The secret with the Shark Hide is putting it on when it's cold. It will run otherwise from what everyone says.
Ralph
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