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Old 09-13-2007, 09:17 PM   #1
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Cleaning

Well I have had my AS 2 months now. Sprayed it off with soap and water to rid it of road grime from a couple of short trips. However, what is the procedure for caring for its skin and having it remain all ship-shape and bristol fashion. Some recommend walburnizeing (sp?). My trailer has the later clear coat finish. Polishes, tools etc. Thanks, Brad
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Old 09-14-2007, 11:19 AM   #2
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If you click on "forums" at the top of the screen, and scroll down to the "exterior restoration" forum, and then go to the "cleaning & polishing" sub-forum, you will find more information than you thought you needed.
Nick.
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Old 09-14-2007, 11:37 AM   #3
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In the Walbernize compound there are elasticizers that guard the clear coat from becoming crazed by micro-fractures (think shattered tempered glass) so its really replenishing the clear coat and adding a thin flexible barrier versus a hard wax finish. A thorough washing and Walbernize at least twice a year should keep the shell attractive for a long time...

Oh, and avoid pressure-wands-washers, I can see the sweep marks from jet spray fan nozzles in oxidation where it "opened" the clear-coat pores all over both my vintage trailers from one (?) pressure washing years ago....
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Old 09-14-2007, 12:41 PM   #4
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hi brad

don't waste money on walbernizer

the '99 and beyond trailers have a clear fluorocarbon PAINT finish.

it is a CLEARCOAT not the older plasticoat...

you can NOT nourish it or replenish as suggested with the older plasti-coat approach.

wash, clean, clay or otherwise prep the skin surface...

i use a soft brush and 2 buckets but many like sheepskip mitts...

then apply your favorite AUTOMOTIVE wax or sealant.

if your unit is stored in the sun carnauba waxes evaporate in a few weeks so

i use meguiars polysealant #20 or synthetic sealant #21 and like the results with both...

#21 is available in big jugs and buffs easier

Meguiars #21 Synthetic Sealant

but i've used #20 for 15+years and it's very durable and easier to find.

Meguiar’s No. 20 Poly Sealant

if you already have a favorite, non abrasive auto wax uses it.

and JUST LIKE AUTOMOTIVE CARE

proper prepartion of the the clearcoat finish is essential for best results...

cheers
2air'

the window frames/trim and attached fixtures/handles don't have the automotive clearcoat so don't apply wax/sealant to them...

some of the trim is bare metal and some is crappycoated so i use a plastic/detailers spray on trim

and the meg's product for plastic/lexan on the clear rock guards.

the lower segment protectors are brushed stainless steel so DON'T wax them either.

use your favorite stainless steel product.

i'm using soap/water then a solvent (for tar) followed by dap stainless spray (a mineral oil basically)
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Old 09-14-2007, 02:53 PM   #5
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....Wabbiteer takes notes for future reference, '99 & beyond, '99 & beyond....

Quote:
... the window frames/trim and attached fixtures/handles don't have the automotive clearcoat so don't apply wax/sealant to them... ...
So what is best to protect these areas?

I have frames burned w/ oxidation where somewhen a window cleaner ate whatever protection was on the frames and left bare metal... Both my vintage trailers have this to some degree, but I've attached a picture of the average damage on the '73...
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Old 09-14-2007, 02:58 PM   #6
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Note to self...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer
I have frames burned w/ oxidation where somewhen a window cleaner ate whatever protection was on the frames and left bare metal... Both my vintage trailers have this to some degree, but I've attached a picture of the average damage on the '73...
A perfect example of why to NEVER use Windex-type products with ammonia in them.

Ammonia + aluminum = etched skins (or at least possible stripped clearcoat)

I couple of years ago, at a RMVAR Rally, we did a test of different clearcoat stripppers. On some trailers (mid-70's as I recall) straight ammonia worked very well - not all years, as the clearcoat formulas changed every couple of years (sounds like they still do!). Using it as a stripper wouldn't be too bad if you were planning on throughly washing it off immediately and then following it with the full polishing regimen but with window cleaning the residue remains.

Shari
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Old 09-14-2007, 04:17 PM   #7
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window frames...

using the original formula walb' on these bits is a reasonable option...

another option is complete removal of whatever residual coating that remains...

first mask off the windows and skin

apply aircraft stripper or 3m stripper which is my choice...

while the masking is still in place polish with your favorite bare alum/metal product...

blue magic metal polish is a reliable choice since it's safe on plastic and glass too...

CarGo Blue Magic

again widely available at wallyworld or most auto supply stores.

but any of the 'final polishes' for aluminum would work...

keep in mind this is the 'black residue on d'rag' process...

and can be a lotta work

cheers
2air'
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