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Old 09-25-2007, 12:38 PM   #29
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The polymer sealants last longer than wax. The sun hardens them and I have found they retain the shine up to a year with minimal cleaning. On clearcoat they are terrific.My 280 shone like ice on the clearcoated body.
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Old 09-25-2007, 02:26 PM   #30
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At what age should my Airstream be when I wax it the first time?
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Old 09-25-2007, 04:46 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
At what age should my Airstream be when I wax it the first time?
it should be waxed at birth...

immediately upon delivery, the first camping trip, whenever...

but asap.

it may be the ONLY way to delay the corrosion issue...

also going through the process of a through cleaning, contaminant removal and sealant...

givens one a very close inspection of the exterior and any early potential issues.

the ONLY corrosion on my 05 is in locations i FAILED to seal/wax early....

because my arms got tired.

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-25-2007, 05:07 PM   #32
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I don't think there is an owner among us who wouldn't have taken the extra step for protection immediately had Airstream made it known to be an issue. Actually evey dealer should do that. Shame on Airstream for not being forthcoming and sending out an alert to all buyers. I found earlier e-mails recently to a dealer inquiring about our first Airstream in 2003, and he says only the clear coat of the past was an issue, that the new clearcoat will not be a problem. Oh if I knew then what I know now! It was definitely a concern we had before even considering Airstreams.
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Old 09-25-2007, 05:55 PM   #33
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Sitting in YOUR driveway

Quote:
Originally Posted by nilesrob
Quite frankly, we wouldn't mind seeing ANYONE's AS in our driveway right about now...
The Argosy is dripping paint on our driveway and making a really cooool mess.
More than glad to bring it up and finish the stripping in your car park.
Especially since you have the full hook ups right there at the corner of the house.
Looks like a country come to town opportunity!
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:16 PM   #34
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I'd love to help - but now we're a week away. I've got to save my arm! Sounds like I've got work to do soon!

Now I just need to figure out how we'll give our new AS a good cleaning - total water restrictions in our county due to drought.

And then, of course, we'll have to wash the paint from em's Argosy off of our driveway!?! Would it be wrong to paint our driveway aluminum?
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:15 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
it should be waxed at birth...
cheers
2air'
Ooops, too late for that one. I guess I'm gonna have to order some of that extra fine clay you linked to in your post and start cleaning and waxing.

I think my parents used some of the liquid glass on their car one time and it sure did shine and the water ran off so quick. Even the paint "felt" smooth and glass like. Does anybody know of a problem with using it on an Airstream? I have some car wax at home that could be used, but I'd like something that would last. Waxing an Airstream has got to be a big job...especially a 30 footer so I don't want to have to do it very often. Yes, I'm busy on weekends and I usually go camping when I am not busy.
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Old 09-26-2007, 08:31 PM   #36
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That is what I have been using for the past 5 years, it was terrific on my motorhome. One can had enough to coat the 28 footer twice, and do my car.
I bought two cans this year to do the Sovereign and three cars. It goes on easy. Pep Boys gets 18 dollars a can.
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:13 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
well don, if there is any plasticcoat left on the 80s trailer....use whatever you want!

the plasticoat on that vintage had more 'plasticizers' in it so using the original walbernize.....is the ticket.....
since it is high in plasticizers.....
which is supposed to help...
but it will not be very shinny....
if the plasticoat is 20+ years old regardless.....
is that the original application or has it been recoated?

on newer 'alcoa' applied' clearcoat trailers any car wax is fine.....
for those of you that like meguiars products......
i've been using their polymer sealant product.....
looks great on silver and the last application has 8-9 months on it and still looks fresh.....

the silicone/siloxianes in modern auto wax will not hurt clearcoat or plastic coat....

cheers
2air'
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Can you recommend a buffer that would not be harmful to the AS? I was planning on using a regular orbital buffer, which raises the question of the type of pad that will be appropriate.
Will we see you at Moraine this year?
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:20 PM   #38
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FWIW, I would NOT use any type of buffer.

I have however, reconsidered my Walbernize stance. I like the ease of application and removal, yet I have noticed that it does not last all that long.

So as an inital test, I Walburnized the entire trailer, exept the entry door. On that I used Mother's carnuba cleaner wax to see how it holds up. I figured if it did anything wrong, it's easier to replace the door than the rest of the exterior skins.

Though it seems a bit more laborious removing the paste wax vs the Walbernize stuff, it wasn't overally laborious, so we'll see.
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Old 04-27-2008, 02:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodedareas
...Can you recommend a buffer that would not be harmful to the AS?...
hi wooded'

you asked a similar question last year and not much has changed on the buffer front except price....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...wax-32816.html

the porter cable 7424 is still the best overall tool for this purpose.

however IF you don't own one of the p-c units yet or haven't used one much...

practice first on that lincoln truck or one of the cars, to develop a feel for the tool...

it is very hard (not impossible) to hurt the clearcoat with one of these and the right pad and liquid products....

the primary concern with using it on the 'stream is TOO MUCH PRESSURE on the panels

because they are thinner that most auto sheetmetal, and can indent from too much weight in the wrong spots...

the next issue is climbing a ladder to get the upper half of the 'stream while holding onto the buffer.

typically the buffer is used for the earlier steps, like polishing, swirl removal, glaze application,

while the final coat of sealant or wax is applied and removed my hand.

and really IF the surface is prepped correctly the final wax/sealant goes on and comes off easily...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...its-36047.html

it is ok to apply/remove the final coat of wax or sealant with a porter-cable, but if doing so...

USE THE BLUE-FINISHING-FINESSE PAD for this last step....

here is a site that has all the needed tools and pads, but plenty of auto detail sites carry these items...

... Porter Cable 7424...

they've got some nice 'how to' material on that site as well.

i like doing this stuff for the exercise, but you might be happier just finding a top notch detailing shop, with folks who do this all day....

in addition to the main tool, backing plates, the sealants/waxes/polishes, CLEANING tools (to clean the pads) and the typical assortment of detailing paraphernalia are necessary...

so IF not already fully equipped and doing the cars n trucks, is this really a process ya wanna get in to?

as you can c from reading the thread linked above, lewster also uses a p-c for this task,

and it is fun, sorta for those of us who don't do frame off restorations....

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:31 PM   #40
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My dealer, Can-Am RV, recommends Walbernize for pre-Alcoa aluminum trailers, and Socar Sealant for Alcoa coated aluminum. I just spent the day washing and waxing our 2001 Safari. The Socar went on and of very easy. I'll be interested to see how well it lasts.
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Old 05-24-2008, 02:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
When I first got my CCD, I read all of the threads and got some Walnernize . Atfer applying it so a small spot of the trailer, I really didn't like the finish, but thought that I should give it a try. I ended up polishing half with Walbernize and the other half with Rejex, which is a polymer product that I have been using on a regular basis since my MoHo days. It is available from Corrosion Technologies Corporation.

That was in Jan. After looking at the A/S yesterday as I get it ready for my trip, the Walbernize side is not as bright as the Rejex side, and the water beads are not as distinct......almost non-existent. I would say that I prefer the Rejex and will re-do the T/T as soon as I have the time. The CCD is stored outside, so it is a pretty good indicator of who expect. Plus, the Rejex makes it far easier to remove tar and bugs, from prior experience of owning a bug magnet (also known as a motor home).
Man, after reading Lewster's post here, I had to try this stuff (Rejex) on my Safari Sport Airstream and got the job done yesterday and I am amazed by the result. This stuff works extremely well and you get an awesome shine (I could see my reflection on the Aluminum of the trailer). The other thing is that I used only a quarter of the bottle, after purchasing two bottles. Definitely will endorse this product with Lewster (as posted above).
Not sure how well it works on the older Airstreams, but I guess it would be worth giving it a try.
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