The polymer sealants last longer than wax. The sun hardens them and I have found they retain the shine up to a year with minimal cleaning. On clearcoat they are terrific.My 280 shone like ice on the clearcoated body.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
I don't think there is an owner among us who wouldn't have taken the extra step for protection immediately had Airstream made it known to be an issue. Actually evey dealer should do that. Shame on Airstream for not being forthcoming and sending out an alert to all buyers. I found earlier e-mails recently to a dealer inquiring about our first Airstream in 2003, and he says only the clear coat of the past was an issue, that the new clearcoat will not be a problem. Oh if I knew then what I know now! It was definitely a concern we had before even considering Airstreams.
__________________ Cj Joy to the world Joy to you and me
Quite frankly, we wouldn't mind seeing ANYONE's AS in our driveway right about now...
The Argosy is dripping paint on our driveway and making a really cooool mess.
More than glad to bring it up and finish the stripping in your car park.
Especially since you have the full hook ups right there at the corner of the house.
Looks like a country come to town opportunity!
__________________ Travelers by aluminum roadships, loyalists to one species, masters of convenience, herdsmen steeped in maintenance and restoration.
Ooops, too late for that one. I guess I'm gonna have to order some of that extra fine clay you linked to in your post and start cleaning and waxing.
I think my parents used some of the liquid glass on their car one time and it sure did shine and the water ran off so quick. Even the paint "felt" smooth and glass like. Does anybody know of a problem with using it on an Airstream? I have some car wax at home that could be used, but I'd like something that would last. Waxing an Airstream has got to be a big job...especially a 30 footer so I don't want to have to do it very often. Yes, I'm busy on weekends and I usually go camping when I am not busy.
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2006 30' Safari - "Changes in Latitudes"
2008 F-250 Lariat Power Stroke Diesel Crew Cab SWB
Family of Disney Fanatics
WBCCI# 4821
That is what I have been using for the past 5 years, it was terrific on my motorhome. One can had enough to coat the 28 footer twice, and do my car.
I bought two cans this year to do the Sovereign and three cars. It goes on easy. Pep Boys gets 18 dollars a can.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
well don, if there is any plasticcoat left on the 80s trailer....use whatever you want!
the plasticoat on that vintage had more 'plasticizers' in it so using the original walbernize.....is the ticket.....
since it is high in plasticizers.....
which is supposed to help...
but it will not be very shinny....
if the plasticoat is 20+ years old regardless.....
is that the original application or has it been recoated?
on newer 'alcoa' applied' clearcoat trailers any car wax is fine.....
for those of you that like meguiars products......
i've been using their polymer sealant product.....
looks great on silver and the last application has 8-9 months on it and still looks fresh.....
the silicone/siloxianes in modern auto wax will not hurt clearcoat or plastic coat....
cheers
2air'
2Air
Can you recommend a buffer that would not be harmful to the AS? I was planning on using a regular orbital buffer, which raises the question of the type of pad that will be appropriate.
Will we see you at Moraine this year?
Allen
I have however, reconsidered my Walbernize stance. I like the ease of application and removal, yet I have noticed that it does not last all that long.
So as an inital test, I Walburnized the entire trailer, exept the entry door. On that I used Mother's carnuba cleaner wax to see how it holds up. I figured if it did anything wrong, it's easier to replace the door than the rest of the exterior skins.
Though it seems a bit more laborious removing the paste wax vs the Walbernize stuff, it wasn't overally laborious, so we'll see.
__________________
Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form. -NY Times 1991
they've got some nice 'how to' material on that site as well.
i like doing this stuff for the exercise, but you might be happier just finding a top notch detailing shop, with folks who do this all day....
in addition to the main tool, backing plates, the sealants/waxes/polishes, CLEANING tools (to clean the pads) and the typical assortment of detailing paraphernalia are necessary...
so IF not already fully equipped and doing the cars n trucks, is this really a process ya wanna get in to?
as you can c from reading the thread linked above, lewster also uses a p-c for this task,
and it is fun, sorta for those of us who don't do frame off restorations....
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
My dealer, Can-Am RV, recommends Walbernize for pre-Alcoa aluminum trailers, and Socar Sealant for Alcoa coated aluminum. I just spent the day washing and waxing our 2001 Safari. The Socar went on and of very easy. I'll be interested to see how well it lasts.
__________________
Gary & Debbie
2001 Safari 25 SS
2001 Yukon 5.3L 3.73 • Hensley • Jordan Ultima • McKesh
When I first got my CCD, I read all of the threads and got some Walnernize . Atfer applying it so a small spot of the trailer, I really didn't like the finish, but thought that I should give it a try. I ended up polishing half with Walbernize and the other half with Rejex, which is a polymer product that I have been using on a regular basis since my MoHo days. It is available from Corrosion Technologies Corporation.
That was in Jan. After looking at the A/S yesterday as I get it ready for my trip, the Walbernize side is not as bright as the Rejex side, and the water beads are not as distinct......almost non-existent. I would say that I prefer the Rejex and will re-do the T/T as soon as I have the time. The CCD is stored outside, so it is a pretty good indicator of who expect. Plus, the Rejex makes it far easier to remove tar and bugs, from prior experience of owning a bug magnet (also known as a motor home).
Man, after reading Lewster's post here, I had to try this stuff (Rejex) on my Safari Sport Airstream and got the job done yesterday and I am amazed by the result. This stuff works extremely well and you get an awesome shine (I could see my reflection on the Aluminum of the trailer). The other thing is that I used only a quarter of the bottle, after purchasing two bottles. Definitely will endorse this product with Lewster (as posted above).
Not sure how well it works on the older Airstreams, but I guess it would be worth giving it a try.
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I guess I'm gonna have to order some of that extra fine clay you linked to in your post and start cleaning and waxing.
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