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Old 05-02-2019, 01:53 PM   #1
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1966 26' Overlander
San Luis Obispo , California
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 60
Bright Work Polish

I recently began using the Bright Work Polish to renew the shine on my 1966 Overlander. I was very pleasantly surprised with the ease of working with this polish. I prefer it vastly over Nuvite polish. I found it easier to apply, way less mess and easy cleanup. Granted I am not going from a old unrestored finish but the ease of working with the product and the results were very very satisfying. You can find you tube videos on how to use it and you can order it on the Bright Work website. I have no affiliation with Bright Works and they do not know I am posting this thread. It has been 3 years since I polished my rig and it sits outside all the time. We are about 8 miles from the ocean and the finish was not looking pretty at all. In no time at all I had it looking better than it has ever looked before.
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:30 PM   #2
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1966 26' Overlander
San Luis Obispo , California
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 60
Bright Work Polish

I wanted to add a couple photos and also mention this products goes a long long way. I doubt if I will use a whole can of the polish on the complete trailer. The photos show before and after on one section. I will take a photo of the whole trailer when I am done.
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Old 05-03-2019, 02:18 PM   #3
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2017 25' International
1968 17' Caravel
Los Osos , California
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 289
Do you happen to use anything over the Bright Work Polish to maintain the sealing qualities in the months after your initial polishing?

I'm looking for something that I can apply occasionally by hand that is compatible with a machine polishing material. I use GLARE Professional Polish on my more contemporary Airstream, but I'm not sure what effect it might have on the NuVite machine polish finish on the vintage.

We share the same sea air, albeit a bit closer to the water for us.
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Old 05-04-2019, 04:49 PM   #4
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1966 26' Overlander
San Luis Obispo , California
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 60
Bright Work Polish

I tried using Nu Polish and had the same issue I had with Nuvite - AWFUL! It left things looking hazy. I called Bright Works and they said a car polish is meant for a smoother finish like a clear coat and the bare aluminum is not -smooth enough so it leaves polish in the small minute lin-es you cannot see. He said I should not need to seal with anything. Call me at 805-801-8444 if you have more questions or would like to see mine.
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:11 PM   #5
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1972 23' Safari
Middletown , Rhode Island
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How many cans did it take you....

How many cans did you use, 8oz or 16 oz? Which polish did you get, red, white, blue, all 3? Thanks. I'm in the process of polishing my 72 Safari 23 footer. Just finishing up on the clear coat removal.
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Old 07-11-2019, 02:07 PM   #6
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1966 26' Overlander
San Luis Obispo , California
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Polish

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I ordered the 16 oz bottles and I think I could completely polish the trailer twice with these. The process uses very little polish. I love the fact it doesn't get slung all over like the Nuvite does. A little harder to get the pads cleaned but I soak in a degreaser solution for a couple days before washing in the machine and they come out like new.
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Old 07-11-2019, 02:18 PM   #7
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1965 17' Caravel
Brunswick , Georgia
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 6
Hey there, and thanks for the post!
I am new to the Airstream community- just purchased a 1965 Caravel- and I do plan on polishing her up one day. My question- would you mind explaining to me how you used the polish? I assume with a buffer? What kind, and any special pad?
Thanks so much in advance-
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Old 07-15-2019, 01:49 PM   #8
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1966 26' Overlander
San Luis Obispo , California
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 60
Bright Work Polish

First off there is a ton of information on methods in other threads. Take the time to read them to get a better understanding of what to do. Watch the videos on your tube as well. First off you need to strip the clear coat if it has not been done already. The condition of the skin will determine how aggressive you need to be.

For the Bright Work Polish I started with a wool pad on a DeWalt angle grinder. the polish is spread out over a small area similar to applying wax on a car. Then use the wool pad to clean polish off moving slowly across the area in both directions. The 2nd step is identical to the first only a less aggressive polish. For the 3rd step, I used the Cyclo polisher with the flannel pads from Perfect Polish. Between each step it is important to clean off the remaining residue. I use the Mineral Odorless Spirits from Home Depot and use micro fiber towels to wipe off. I use a 2 step method. Use a spray bottle to apply the Mineral Spirits. First wipe to get the bulk off and then use a clean one for final wipe. I use the environmentally friendly version of Mineral Spirits as it seems to be easier to use for me.

If there are still cloudy areas, it means there is still corrosion on the surface. I tested a small area last week by sanding with 1500 grit and then followed with 2000 grit. It made a real difference in the shine. Depending on the condition of your skin, you might even have to use a more aggressive grit to start with. There are other threads that talk about sanding as well but be careful not to sand through the finish layer of aluminum.

Good luck!
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