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Old 06-22-2010, 01:45 PM   #1
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black emery bar vs. nuvite G6 ?

Need to work on some scratches. I've used the black bar is G6 coarser? Any help on reducing the scratches is appreciated. Don
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:19 PM   #2
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No, the bar is coarser. Looking good!

Shari
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:07 PM   #3
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Shari, If that is the case, I will work the scratches a little more with the black bar. Did you have any scratches you had to deal with on your '56? Don
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:21 AM   #4
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Oh yeah! Lot's. Some are in otherwise good panels (not dented or creased) so we just polish them and leave them. The risk you run of overworking a scratched area is that you burn through the clearcoat...especially with the black bar...it can happen pretty fast. The key is to just knock down the rough edge and then clean the compound out of the scratch really, really well, we use micro fiber cloths with the cyclo polisher and Glass Wax. Keep in mind, most people are not going to look at your trailer as close as you do while polishing...not sure I've ever seen a "eighteen-inch trailer" one that looks "perfect" from 18" away.

I do have to say though, we did replace our entire streetside panel because it was scratched the entire length (12'). If we would have wanted to get rid of all the scratches, we would have had to replace every panel because Birdy has seen the road! The front panels are pretty pitted from rocks - but once it's cleaned, really cleaned, after polishing - you don't notice. We like to say our is "a five-foot trailer" looks great from five feet away...

Someday, if we're bored, we may go back and replace another panel or two...but right now, we are happy to be done and ready to move onto giving Maxwell some attention - things we never did the first time around...change out the Univolt to an Intelli-Power, install new black tank (& possible toilet), change copper pipe to PEX and a new axle. Oh boy...it never ends!

Shari
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:36 AM   #5
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Oh yeah! Lot's. Some are in otherwise good panels (not dented or creased) so we just polish them and leave them. The risk you run of overworking a scratched area is that you burn through the clearcoat...especially with the black bar...it can happen pretty fast. The key is to just knock down the rough edge and then clean the compound out of the scratch really, really well, we use micro fiber cloths with the cyclo polisher and Glass Wax. Keep in mind, most people are not going to look at your trailer as close as you do while polishing...not sure I've ever seen a "eighteen-inch trailer" one that looks "perfect" from 18" away.

I do have to say though, we did replace our entire streetside panel because it was scratched the entire length (12'). If we would have wanted to get rid of all the scratches, we would have had to replace every panel because Birdy has seen the road! The front panels are pretty pitted from rocks - but once it's cleaned, really cleaned, after polishing - you don't notice. We like to say our is "a five-foot trailer" looks great from five feet away...

Someday, if we're bored, we may go back and replace another panel or two...but right now, we are happy to be done and ready to move onto giving Maxwell some attention - things we never did the first time around...change out the Univolt to an Intelli-Power, install new black tank (& possible toilet), change copper pipe to PEX and a new axle. Oh boy...it never ends!

Shari
Shari,
The black bar gives me an uneven cut,which is normal.When I go back with the red tripoli bar it shines up well but still somewhtat uneven.
What do you do next personally to smooth things out, and what after a wash dulls the shine slightly? Thanks,Steve
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:22 PM   #6
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Shari, I am with you---Beauty Marks are Cool. I'll just do a little more with the black bar then on to the brown bar and finish with cyclo and Nuvite. I bought several 3 and 4 inch sewn cotton wheels to work on the trim. Any suggestions on the window frames? Thanks, Don
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:34 PM   #7
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Well, first off..."I" don't do anything having to do with polishing except lend moral support and work on the details around the windows, doors and the final Glass Wax clean-up, Mr.InsideOut does all the dirty work! I would if I could, but I can't due to bad elbows.

But, he basically keeps going over the same area with each compound several times switching the way he holds the wheel, so the pads get into all the nooks & crannys and don't leave streaks all in the same direction. Then he does a pass with the compounder with "C" before Cyclo-Polishing a final pass with "C", then "S". I will have to admit he is VERY annal-retentive and super critical of his polishing. But the good news is, when he's "done" he's done and doesn't fuss with it all the time. There really isn't any magic trick to keep the oxidation from starting all over again immediately when you stop and water & humidity are what make it oxidize. So keep it waxed (we use "S" and then Nu-Finish) and enjoy the shine.

BTW, we have always parked outside, although we have located an indoor storage place for Birdy starting after International. It has been 6 years since we polished Maxwell, he's due for a touch-up next spring - but he still looks pretty darn good. Being in a dry climate doesn't hurt...

Shari
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:43 PM   #8
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Any suggestions on the window frames?
On Maxwell, when we polished him 6 years ago, I took a normal variable speed drill and used small cotton wheels (both stitched and loose) to get the window frames & jambs. In the tight spaces, I used my Foredom tool with small bits, it's like a Dremmel on steroids. I had it due to my hobby-jewelry business, I wouldn't buy one - a Dremmel would work fine.

On Birdy, we took all the frames off the trailer (see my It's a Girl!!!" thread, starting around post #245) and I was able to get at them with a drill again. This time I used a really gentle scotchbrite wheel first - but I had 54 years worth of oxidation to remove. The ONLY reason I felt comfortable doing that is the frames are not Alclad they are a lesser quality "solid" aluminum and because they were off the trailer there was no chance of damaging an adjacent panel by going through the Alclad layer. I would never recommend that to Alclad panel or any part adjacent to one.

Another couple of things I found helpful for tight spaces (including around the valves of our aluminum tanks) was both Nevr-Dull wadding and Mother's Aluminum Wheel cleaner with a soft cotton &/or micro-fiber cloth. Heck, we'll try anything, especially for the small detail hand-work...my manicurist hates me when we are polishing!

Shari
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:59 PM   #9
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The risk you run of overworking a scratched area is that you burn through the clearcoat...
Ooops, meant to type "Alclad" instead of clearcoat...sorry
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:19 PM   #10
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Shari, Thanks for all the info. I am working on the Caravelle next week and posts some new pictures. Don
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