The small buff pads are 4 inches. I don't see how you could use them with a larger grinder. I suppose if the guard were removed (if possible) any size pad could work. We've bought several brands over the years (we use them in our business) and the Milwallkee has held up the best, although I really liked the Makita I used first.
I'm using the Jestco products to polish right now. I have both the Harbor freight polisher & a 5" variable speed Makita grinder. Truthfully, the Makita is a bit scarry. Today, I got my $100 Bose earbuds caught in the grinder. They were whipping around & got me in the leg pretty good. I just threw the grinder because I couldn't go through the pain of turning it off. Luckily, it came unplugged on the toss. It still works! I found pieces of the earbuds about 20 feet away! I also hit the corner of the vent from above the stove (on the outside). Yep, I bent it. Thankfully, through all of this, I managed to stay on my ladder! The Harbor freight polisher is a little tamer. I hope to make it through this process without any broken bones. Last time I polished my former trailer, I dislocated my shoulder (with the Harbor freight polisher!)
Good luck....be careful (more so than I anyhow!)
The small buff pads are 4 inches. I don't see how you could use them with a larger grinder. I suppose if the guard were removed (if possible) any size pad could work. We've bought several brands over the years (we use them in our business) and the Milwallkee has held up the best, although I really liked the Makita I used first.
Put the 4" in a drill...
__________________
Frank Yensan The Airstreamer's Club MD-1 founding member "we're dead serious about having fun"
Here I am using a Northern Tool 7" Polisher with an 8" buff. I tried the smaller buffs on a drill, but you do not make the same progress as you do with a 3000-3500 RPM Polisher.
__________________ "I've got aluminum fever, and the only prescription, is more AIRSTREAM!!!"
I've been using the harbor freight variable speed polisher with a flannel buff pad from Lowes, but they have them at sears also. Sears also has the rouge for buffing. I'm using the red stuff (Tripoli) for the initial cut. and I bought some white rouge for a final buff (with a loose buff pad), but I don't know if I'll go that direction. after experimenting for a wihile with all the different recommendations for polishing, I tried buffing with the tripoli, then following up with a quick hand polish with Mothers, and it works pretty decent. I'm not going for the ultra shine right now. that will be later on.
I've had some experience buffing out aluminum on buffing stands, and I know that it helps to heat the metal before hand, so I've been working on it on the hot days in full sun. I don't think I'm too smart. I did try buffing on the hot side, and the cool side, and didn't notice too big of a difference. I am getting very little distortion on the hot side while I'm buffing though.
the picture of the rear shows the lines left by the buffer, and the spot in the middle is where I did the hand rub with the Mothers.
How is the rouge applied to the aluminum? I thought it was supposed to be applied to the buffing wheel but wont that tear up the buffing wheel? I dont get it.
How is the rouge applied to the aluminum? I thought it was supposed to be applied to the buffing wheel but wont that tear up the buffing wheel? I dont get it.
Take a look at post #49. He's using a buffing wheel with some sort of bar polish. The rouge also comes in a bar. I clamped mine to the ladder rung & ran the buffing wheel over the bar. The wheels don't tear up at all. You really are just using the wheel to transfer the rouge to the aluminum. Like with any other method of polishing, you have to get used to how much polish you apply to your wheel, along with how often you apply it. It all comes with experimenting.
Greetings Gen,
The different bars (White, Grey, Rouge-red) are somewhat soft...you hold them in one hand and the grinder in the other....with the cotton buff (wheel) turning...you touch the bar to the buff....it will adhere to the buff...you don't need a lot....then apply to the surface to be polished....about 12"x12" or so...overlapping....then re apply more polish....after awhile the buff becomes clogged and you rake it to loosen the buff and continue...hope this clears it up for you. I have been polishing with this method for about 2 yrs. and have found it to be the best so far for me. I used to polish the Nuvite way and Rolite way and both those methods where twice as long and twice as expensive..but they work also...and after 7 yrs of those methods, changed to the rouge bars....but to each their on.
The attached photo is of a Caravel that I polished in 60 hrs. with the bar method...used to take me appox. 150 hrs the other methods.
Jesco is a great company to work with - they are a MAJOR sponsor of our Vintage Resotoration rally in Albuquerque each year - there polishes work extremely well and you will be very pleased with the results - - - the only caution is to be very careful working at high speeds - especially arounds lights and things.
Take a look at post #49. He's using a buffing wheel with some sort of bar polish. The rouge also comes in a bar. I clamped mine to the ladder rung & ran the buffing wheel over the bar. The wheels don't tear up at all. You really are just using the wheel to transfer the rouge to the aluminum. Like with any other method of polishing, you have to get used to how much polish you apply to your wheel, along with how often you apply it. It all comes with experimenting.
Thanks, I have the bars too. It just looked to me like the bars would eat up the pads so I thought it best to ask first.
Quick Links
Linear Mode
