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Old 04-03-2014, 02:16 PM   #29
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Not really. On the compound curves like in a '63, the panels are stretched when they are formed anyways which makes them look different on close inspection. Our '56 with the 13 panels (on the right) doesn't have the compound curve panels, our '64 GT did. They definately polished up different, but from several feet a way you don't see the difference - I think i'd be the same with the scratches.

Shari
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:11 PM   #30
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Not really. On the compound curves like in a '63, the panels are stretched when they are formed anyways which makes them look different on close inspection. Our '56 with the 13 panels (on the right) doesn't have the compound curve panels, our '64 GT did. They definately polished up different, but from several feet a way you don't see the difference - I think i'd be the same with the scratches.

Shari
This is something I am willing to take on. I know I read about this somewhere else, but would I use 2024 Alclad on the outside as well? Almost every one of the lower panels has an opening in it that I want to patch anyway. It seems logical that I just replace the entire panel instead of cutting and fitting custom patches on each of the panels. I would probably only replace all the lower panels, leaving the end caps and arched center-roof panels, and just wet sand/polishing the heck out of them.

Sound like a plan?
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:17 PM   #31
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Yes, 2024-T3. When you order it, get the protective plastic coating on it - keeps it from scratching while you are working with it - lord knows, you don't need anymore scratches to deal with!

Check out my post #225 (picture #6) for how we used the old panels for templates on the new ones - it worked out great!

Good luck!

Shari
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:46 PM   #32
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sounds like a great plan! The new panels polish up like nobody's business. My avitar is the trailer I wet sanded, BUT, it wasn't sanded first, it was just really rough from sitting in the woods for 20 years!
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:08 PM   #33
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Thanks for your feedback. I am going to order a bunch of 2024 this week. Shari, I have already been planning to replace all the interior panels, and the process you and your friends used on Birdy is what I have been envisioning, in theory, for that job. I like the idea of doing all the template work on a big piece of plywood, and literally drilling the rivet holes through the old panel, so they match the holes on the frame. Awesome!

I bought some small sheets (2' x 4') of 2024 from a dude on ebay, but is there a generally accepted best online source for ordering 2024? I'd like to not lose my shirt on price and shipping. I'm in MA, and wouldn't know a good local source, so I am currently limited to online sources.

Thanks,

Jim

PS: updated the ole Avatar, as I think I will be asking a lot more questions on here; )
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:28 PM   #34
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We purchased our 2024-T3 aluminum online at Airparts, Inc. We ordered a 30+ foot long piece because we were replacing several panels on three different trailers. They sell it by the foot...



It runs about $16.75 plf 48" wide. Be sure to get it with the protective plastic one side. I think there might be a slight upcharge for the plastic, but it's worth it.

Shari
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:10 PM   #35
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That's a good place to order from but make sure you get 2024-T3 ALCLAD. I've seen people get it wrong and not have the ALCLAD.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:16 PM   #36
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Another cool creative idea would be to do a wrap like they do on buses. I've seen several SOTF trailers that have been wrapped - looks way cool! I may do my Scotty when I'm at that point.

Shari
Matthew McConaughey had his new one wrapped promoting a movie he starred in. He used it as his home while on the press tour. Wrapping covers all of the rivet lines, seams, etc. Practically guarantees no leaks. HOWEVER the color will last about 5 years max, then it will need to be redone.

There is paint that looks just like CHROME.... now talk about polished looking... People will think they're looking into the sun.

Paula
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:19 PM   #37
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We purchased our 2024-T3 aluminum online at Airparts, Inc. We ordered a 30+ foot long piece because we were replacing several panels on three different trailers. They sell it by the foot...



It runs about $16.75 plf 48" wide. Be sure to get it with the protective plastic one side. I think there might be a slight upcharge for the plastic, but it's worth it.

Shari
Just ordered 32' of 2024. PVC wrapped on one side. Thank you so much for the referral! I paid WAY more for this stuff on ebay.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:24 PM   #38
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got clecos? Who's gonna buck for you?

DO NOT stand on street corners in a trench coat saying, "Hey little girl wanna come up and see my trailer and buck with me?"

Paula
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:44 PM   #39
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Just ordered 32' of 2024. PVC wrapped on one side. Thank you so much for the referral! I paid WAY more for this stuff on ebay.
Awesome! Glad to be able to help…now I can't wait to watch your progress!

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got clecos? Who's gonna buck for you?
So true Paula, you will always need about 25 more clecos than you have!

By the way, at our house, I'm the shooter & he's the bucker! We tried it the other way, didn't work out so good…can you say "smilies"?

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DO NOT stand on street corners in a trench coat saying, "Hey little girl wanna come up and see my trailer and buck with me?"
Uh, yeah. That would be a very bad idea. Too funny!

Shari
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:14 AM   #40
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Looks like they used a 80 grit sandpaper, you will have to do this in stages use a 180 grit on an area then go to a 320 grit then a 1500.just keep going to a finer grit til you get the slicker looking metal.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:35 PM   #41
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Jim,

None of your image "attachments" worked; the links all give dead ends.

You need to use the other method you were using at first, or use an "image warehouse" site to post a link.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:53 PM   #42
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Looks like they used a 80 grit sandpaper, you will have to do this in stages use a 180 grit on an area then go to a 320 grit then a 1500.just keep going to a finer grit til you get the slicker looking metal.
I wasn’t planning on starting with anything as rough as 180 grit, but if you think that’s the way to go, I will start there. My approach was going to be:

Final Scuff with Scotch Bright pad, then 600, 800, 1000, 2000, then 3 stage Nuvite Compound/polishing.

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I spend most of the weekend pulling the windows, and stripping them of lots of spray paint on the exterior, and interior paint on the inside. I used Citristrip and a Scotch Bright pad to get the frames clean.

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The windows are now looking much better! A few of the frames fell apart pretty easily, after pulling them off the trailer. The POs had used various methods of fixing the frames in the past, from using angle-brackets with screws, to screwing directly into the corner of the frame. In any event, I am planning on getting these looking totally brand new, then bonding the corners with Loctite Metal Epoxy. Loctite Epoxy Metal / Concrete from Loctite Adhesives Let me know if something else would work better.

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The windows came out pretty easily, as the PO had re-installed the windows using steel screws. As I got them out, I started to think I will run into issues with the screw holes left in the frames. Will I have to use a larger or longer buck rivet to account for the oversizing that the screws caused? I am replacing some of the panels on the side, so I can drill 1/8” holes in those places, but in the front and back, I will have to use some of the old, potentially oversized holes again. In addition, I feel like I should prep those holes before starting the riveting. My current plan of attack is to lightly clean the screw holes of metal burrs n such with a Dremel, so the rivets seat cleanly.



Also, long these lines, there are a number of screw holes in the front and back end cap areas, just above the windows, where someone went off screwing holes in it. Any recommendations on filling these holes? I was thinking of pulling the old pop rivets, and just bucking a bunch of buck rivets into the holes to fill them, or potentially riveting in a reinforcement piece of aluminum in behind where all the holes are, just to beef the area up.

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Thanks again for all of your feedback. Hearing from everyone makes me feel much more comfortable making all my moves. Thanks!

Jim
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