Winterization HELP!!!

[mwilliamsmd]

Trying to winterize my 2014 FC 23D. Following the manual but still having questions???? Bought adapter for my small compressor but doesn't seem to be blowing any water out? Found a small piece of black hose with compressor fitting and a threaded female end (came with trailer) not sure what it's for? Suppose to access the water pump - no way in hell you can get to mine!!! Manual is pretty simplistic in my mind and makes way to many assumptions. Is there a systematic process that is relatively effective and reliable? Thanks

[Protagonist]

1 - drain fresh water tank.
2 - drain water heater.
3 - open low-point drains.
4 - open faucets so water drains to low points, if it's a single-lever faucet put it halfway between cold and hot while open to let air into both sides.
4a - if you have an exterior shower, hook it up and do the same as with the faucets.
5 - flush toilet and hold open so that the line going to the toilet also drains.
6 - close water heater bypass valve.
7 - close low point drains.
8 - attach blow-out fitting to municipal water intake.
9 - remove in-line water filter under sink if you have one.
10 - blow air at 45-60 psi until the faucets quit spitting water.
11 - disconnect the blow-out fitting, close the faucets, and disconnect the external shower.

That should take you past the blow-out phase, and you can resume using your manual for the subsequent steps.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by mwilliamsmd

Trying to winterize my 2014 FC 23D. Following the manual but still having questions???? Bought adapter for my small compressor but doesn't seem to be blowing any water out? Found a small piece of black hose with compressor fitting and a threaded female end (came with trailer) not sure what it's for? Suppose to access the water pump - no way in hell you can get to mine!!! Manual is pretty simplistic in my mind and makes way to many assumptions. Is there a systematic process that is relatively effective and reliable? Thanks

Yes there is an easy way.

BUT, you must use as a minimum, a 5 HP compressor.

Small compressors can't possibly deliver enough air flow.

When done, add some winterizing fluid to each P-trap.

Then to make super sure, start the winterizing process again by dumping the holding tanks again.

That insures complete water drainage.

Andy

[HowieE]

All I would add to the above is I open and then close the faucets one by one closest to the city connection while blowing with air. This ensures a better flow through each faucet. If your toilet has a spray hose don't forget to blow it out also.

Now about the pump. You have to get to it because water it in it and can not be removed with the air. Disconnect the input side of the pump.
Place a 2 ft length of hose on it and pump in your antifreeze till it appears at each faucet and toilet, again opening them one by one. This should take less than a gallon.

Pour about 8 oz. of antifreeze into the sinks, shower trap, and cover the flush valve in the toilet.

[SCOTTinNJ]

Does the black tank spray system not need to be winterize?

[A W Warn]

Like HowieE says, you must get to the pump now or you will be replacing it next spring. I suggest that when you get to it you should add a valve so that you can pump antifreeze into the water lines. After you add this valve the whole winterizing process takes less than a half hour. And you can forget about blowing air in the lines.
Pump Converter Winterizing Kit 88-8893 [36543] - $17.95 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

[polarlyse]

Scott, I don't know the plumbing arrangement for the black tank spray so I really don't know if it needs to be blown out but I do it anyway. Can't hurt and give me the peace of mind.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

And you can forget about blowing air in the lines.

If you've used the municipal water hookup, I'd still blow the lines, so that you can clear the water from the check valve in the water intake, if nothing else. Pumping antifreeze through the lines doesn't help with that.

[HowieE]

Yes the city water check valve is metal and it will crack when frozen.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ

Does the black tank spray system not need to be winterize?

Yes it does as it has a check valve in it, and will hold water. Blow it out with compressed air or pump force anti freeze into it with pressure so it gets through the entire spray system. Compressed air is easier.

[Woosch]

Hope this attachment helps. Bought a compressor at Harbor Freight for less than $100 and it works great. Many YouTube videos on this subject out there.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Yes there is an easy way.

BUT, you must use as a minimum, a 5 HP compressor.

Small compressors can't possibly deliver enough air flow.

When done, add some winterizing fluid to each P-trap.

Then to make super sure, start the winterizing process again by dumping the holding tanks again.

That insures complete water drainage.

Andy

Not necessarily. You need a compressor with a large tank and wait for recovery time. It is air volume that blows lines, not compressor head or motor size. I have a 2hp compressor with a 30 gallon tank and an auxiliary 20 gallon tank plumbed in series from an old failed compressor. Heck, I can successfully blow out my son's irrigation system with this system. I have to wait for recovery a lot, but it works.

[SCOTTinNJ]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Scott, I don't know the plumbing arrangement for the black tank spray so I really don't know if it needs to be blown out but I do it anyway. Can't hurt and give me the peace of mind.

Yes, I did plan on doing it. Quick question, do you usually open the valve to let the black tank contents flow out at the same time?

I may have trouble doing that at my location since I don't have a clean out handy. Was thinking (hoping?!?!!) a quick burst wouldn't pressurize the black tank too much.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ

I may have trouble doing that at my location since I don't have a clean out handy. Was thinking (hoping?!?!!) a quick burst wouldn't pressurize the black tank too much.

If the black tank is empty before you do it, then you could prevent pressure buildup by opening the dump valve while blowing air through the fitting.

BUT, if the black tank isn't empty, you're not ready to winterize anyway! Winterizing pretty much requires empty tanks, fresh, black, and gray.

[SCOTTinNJ]

I guess that makes sense.

[PharmGeek]

oh crap...I had not thought about the black tank sprayer or the city water check valve both requiring compressed air....

I thought with my antifreeze through water pump to all places + p traps + a bit in black tank + a bit in grey tank I was in the clear....

I think that black hose that came with the trailer may be a little stupid 4-5 foot extension for the propane access port on the trailer? I could be wrong though....

[TinTin]

Few (none?) of the RV winterization lists I've seen have included blowing out the black tank flush line. I wonder why it would have a check valve, you'd think it would be designed to self-drain ...

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by TinTin

I wonder why it would have a check valve, you'd think it would be designed to self-drain ...

It's actually by RVIA code (and municipal ordinances as well) that you must have some sort of back-flow preventer to keep wastewater from back-feeding into a municipal water source in the event of a loss of water pressure. That back-flow preventer is a check valve on your black tank, an air gap between your sink faucet and the top of a full sink, etc.

[PharmGeek]

Protagonist...I guess if there were ever water damage to that valve, the flushers would still work? but backflow prevention wouldnt? would be hard to notice? Mine was not flushed last year and may or may not have seen damage with multiple exposures of temps in the low teens here in Alabama believe it or not.

[TinTin]

Durn. And she's already put away for the winter 60 miles from home!