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Old 05-25-2016, 06:34 AM   #43
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I think you will find it will work indefinitely.


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Old 05-25-2016, 07:25 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
If there is a future electrical problem with the jack motor, or it burns out, you don't think the dealer is going to point the finger at the circuit breaker?
Only if you put in a circuit breaker rated more than the original fuse.
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:42 PM   #45
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If there is a future electrical problem with the jack motor, or it burns out, you don't think the dealer is going to point the finger at the circuit breaker?
Only if the wiring and motor is burned up because of a failed or wrong amperage breaker. They would have to have some evidence that it was the fault of the breaker in some way.
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:54 PM   #46
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My point was that changing out the glass fuse holder for a breaker opens you up for an argument from the dealer about the cause of the future problem. Why invite the argument when it is a simple matter to get the right glass fuse? [ and some spares ]

Changing out OEM equipment while still under warranty is not worth it unless there is a clear benefit which cannot be obtained any other way IMO.



PS -- Many dealers do this all the time, basically putting "the burden of proof" on the trailer owner to prove that it was a defect covered by the warranty. Swapping out an OEM part just plays into their standard Modus Operandi. Not saying all AS dealers are this way!





Quote:
Originally Posted by r carl View Post
Only if you put in a circuit breaker rated more than the original fuse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by richw46 View Post
Only if the wiring and motor is burned up because of a failed or wrong amperage breaker. They would have to have some evidence that it was the fault of the breaker in some way.
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:32 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
My point was that changing out the glass fuse holder for a breaker opens you up for an argument from the dealer about the cause of the future problem. Why invite the argument when it is a simple matter to get the right glass fuse? [ and some spares ]

Changing out OEM equipment while still under warranty is not worth it unless there is a clear benefit which cannot be obtained any other way IMO.



PS -- Many dealers do this all the time, basically putting "the burden of proof" on the trailer owner to prove that it was a defect covered by the warranty. Swapping out an OEM part just plays into their standard Modus Operandi. Not saying all AS dealers are this way!



Since mine is older I don't think about warranty work. But if it was under warranty and the fuse blew, I'd just call them up and ask if they wanted me to bring it in so they could research the problem or if they wanted to send me another fuse. If I blew a second one, I'd take it in so they could document that it's blowing fuses and let them swap out the motor.

AS shouldn't be accepting jacks from a supplier that is using glass fuses. They should put the onus on the supplier to change that out to blades before they arrive at AS. That's just quality, IMHO.

Once out of warranty, if I couldn't find the fuse I needed I'd modify the inline fuse to a blade fuse or breaker. I don't see any safety issue here.

As for the dealer wanting to void the warranty... if it was me, and the dealership was trying to claim it was my fault, my next place would be to file a grievance with the local BBB against the dealership and include Airstream as well. I'd be a thorn in somebody's side if I had to park my AS across the street from that dealership with a great big sign.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:31 PM   #48
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I have had some problems with the power head, and together with Barker, thought it was the up/down switch. I replaced it and still didn't work. They sent me a new power head under warranty. I offered to pay (Trixie is going on 6 years old).

Included with the new power head, they included extra fuses.

I continued trouble shooting and found the one of the crimps was was loose, and there was a build up of corrosion on the positive lead on the battery.

Through all of this, I never blew fuse. I did read all of the instructions, and will ensure I lubricate all of the gears at least annually. I will also keep the head itself covered to help prevent rain and snow from shorting (or damaging) the switches.

I am very impressed with the customer service from Barker.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:45 PM   #49
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rich I don't like to struggle so much . . .



New glass fuse is KISS, and yes if there is an underlying cause for blowing the fuse, the dealer should fix it under warranty.

Out of warranty period? Go for the breaker of course.

Peter
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:45 PM   #50
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OK, I now have two 5 fuse packages of NAPA 30 amp SB fuses. They look a little different than the the buss OEM's, but I have lost possession of that when I gave it to the dealer. Oh well. My memory says the OEM's were 250V and without a microscope, it appears the Napa's are 32V's. I swapped them out (and back) as they worked fine. I also have a pack coming from Barker, who has been very helpful.

So for now I'm going to wait on the Blade fuse/breaker swap for later, maybe next year.

Not to hijack this (Let me know and I'll move the discussion) but after conveying to Barker what happened to my foot plate and jack, they made two comments. Also I noticd on the instructions and website that in fact " it's design also includes a silent shutoff by use of limit switch."

History.
I thought I ran the post up too far and that caused the toe plate to loosen up and drop off on the highway. (1st comment) Barker said they are bolted to the bottom of the post. Just a heads up you may want to get your socket wrench out and check yours. I had the dealer install a new plate with a lock pin.

When I unhooked from a recent trip the fuse was blown and the hand crank not operative. The dealer said I jammed the gear by running it up to far. The story of having a limit stop changed to no you don't have one. You have to stop short.

They fixed it and I tapped a hex head screw in the post as insurance.

Second comment, Talking to Barker, they confirmed it should have stopped and that I needed to re-sequence the timing to correct that and sent me a diagram. Seems there is a way to reset the post setting so the silent shutoff operates correctly.

I'm heading back to the dealer so that they can discus this with Barker and perform the re-sequencing themselves since it's under warranty. However it looks like a very straightforward process. I have asked (via email) an explanation from Barker re the silent shutoff (i.e. is it a switch, how doe the sequenceing trigger it?) as I want to understand it better.

Barker has been very helpful.

Bob
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:29 PM   #51
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rich I don't like to struggle so much . . .



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Old 05-26-2016, 01:23 AM   #52
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:35 AM   #53
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Bob, sounds like the thing was not installed right, or fixed incorrectly before you bought the trailer? I remember reading about having to calibrate the limit stops if the head was ever removed. Glad you are getting this sorted out. Thinking I will not check mine out, as the nearest dealer is 200 miles away!

I shall simply have to know my limits I guess . . . ?

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Old 05-26-2016, 02:49 PM   #54
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Bob, sounds like the thing was not installed right, or fixed incorrectly before you bought the trailer? I remember reading about having to calibrate the limit stops if the head was ever removed. Glad you are getting this sorted out. Thinking I will not check mine out, as the nearest dealer is 200 miles away!

I shall simply have to know my limits I guess . . . ?

Me too.

The calibrations looks straight forward but since the dealer is 5 miles away and they've always considered this as warranty, it's an easy call.

I'm printing the schematic for my trailer paperwork, just in case.

b
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:37 PM   #55
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If you are blowing fuses on a regular basis you could substitute an automotive type breaker that will reset when it cools. There has to be a reason for blowing a fuse, and assuming your trailer isn't some how particularly overweight I would look at lubricating the jack screw mechanism. It may be binding and overloading the jack motor.
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:44 PM   #56
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So I just jumped into this thread and then found My solution was already offered..sorry and hope you get it resolved. I don't think the jack motor is the problem; I think it is one of the solutions offered already...bad connections or broken limit switch. I was blowing the 30 amp fuse from my TV and found the problem was one of the limit switches so when I reversed the jack it just blew the fuse.
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