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03-27-2012, 09:44 PM
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#1
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(-1 Rivet_
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson
, California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
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What's your favorite brand rivet gun?
Any takers?
TIMK
__________________
Thanks in advance!
TAC CA-77
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03-28-2012, 07:05 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,527
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What kind of rivets, solid shank (buck) or blind?
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03-28-2012, 07:12 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1969 29' Ambassador
brooksville
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,270
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The working kind that's not jammed up!
__________________
Not all those who wonder are lost.
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03-29-2012, 11:21 AM
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#4
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(-1 Rivet_
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson
, California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
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Both kinds
Just getting some input, I was asking about both types.
Thx
TIMK
__________________
Thanks in advance!
TAC CA-77
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03-29-2012, 12:21 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
2009 19' International
Woodinville
, Washington
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 191
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Got this one from Garrett Wade tools. Haven't used it much but swivel head is great for awkward or tight spots.
Rivet Gun, Nut Gun: Swivel-Head Riveting Gun, Blind Nut & Pop Riveting Tool
__________________
DonS
"It's like magic, only real"
(Bud Light commercial)
Women and cats can do as they please, while men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea.(R. Heinlein)
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03-29-2012, 01:15 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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I have an Arrow swivel head pop rivet tool that I got at Home Depot. It works well, but I find that the swivel head is more of an annoyance than a plus. It's great when you can't get to a hole any other way, but I still wish I knew what I did with my old one that stayed put, that is, didn't swivel. Not bad enough to go buy a new one, though.
__________________
Vaughan
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03-29-2012, 01:23 PM
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#7
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Vintage Trailer Supply
Commercial Member
1956 22' Caravanner
Vintage Kin Owner
Montpelier
, Vermont
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 134
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I own a swivel head and a standard blind rivet tool and, like Vaughan, I find the swivel head to be a gimmick that just slows me down. If you are popping stainless rivets bigger than 1/8" you will need a long arm tool, too. Unfortunately, most long arm tools have nose pieces that won't get into small areas... so you probably need to own both.
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03-29-2012, 01:39 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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Steve made a good point about needing a long arm one for stainless rivets bigger than 1/8". I installed about 12 or so larger stainless ones on my F150's bed using the Arrow one from my previous post. To its credit, it survived and still works well. They were so hard to do with the handles on the Arrow that I was squeezing as hard as I could and it wouldn't work till I also squeezed with my knees. That was just enough extra to get the job done. After each rivet, I would have to sit down and rest a while.
Next time, I'll get a bigger riveter.
__________________
Vaughan
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04-07-2012, 12:59 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield
Steve made a good point about needing a long arm one for stainless rivets bigger than 1/8". I installed about 12 or so larger stainless ones on my F150's bed using the Arrow one from my previous post. To its credit, it survived and still works well. They were so hard to do with the handles on the Arrow that I was squeezing as hard as I could and it wouldn't work till I also squeezed with my knees. That was just enough extra to get the job done. After each rivet, I would have to sit down and rest a while.
Next time, I'll get a bigger riveter.
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I know that feeling. My first project with a poprivet gun was to put some steps up a 30' mast on my sailboat. So I would put one step in, hoist myself up a little farther in my bosun's chair, do another one, etc.
It was (6) 3/16" stainless steel rivets per step, 10-12 steps. I should have bought a bigger riveter, but I was still in cheap college student mode (especially just after having bought a sailboat ) Anyway, I had so many blisters on my hands, and my arms were sore for a week.
In summary: get many different types. You will use them on the Airstream, I promise.
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04-07-2012, 05:25 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Loganville
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,741
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I bought three at flea markets. Did not pay over $2:00 for any of them. All three work great. I keep one in each trailer and one in the garage.
Brian
__________________
Brian & Adrienne
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04-07-2012, 05:35 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1961 24' Tradewind
1969 29' Ambassador
1970 21' Globetrotter
Jamestown
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,783
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Has anyone tried the air powered ones like Harbor Freight sells??
__________________
Rick Davis 1602 K8DOC
61 tradewind, plus a few others
13 Ram 2500 TD
99 Dodge TD 577K miles
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04-07-2012, 06:15 AM
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#12
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageRV
If you are popping stainless rivets bigger than 1/8" you will need a long arm tool, too. Unfortunately, most long arm tools have nose pieces that won't get into small areas... so you probably need to own both.
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I got a couple of pieces of galvanized steel pipe to slip over the ends of the handles. It's kind of awkward, but works better than the "two men and a boy" method. Especially with my arthritic hands.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDavis
Has anyone tried the air powered ones like Harbor Freight sells??
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They work very well for Olympic rivets.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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04-07-2012, 11:18 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian
I bought three at flea markets. Did not pay over $2:00 for any of them. All three work great. I keep one in each trailer and one in the garage.
Brian
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May be the best flea market bargain I've ever hear of!
__________________
Vaughan
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04-07-2012, 11:29 AM
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#14
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Maniacal Engineer
1971 25' Tradewind
Lopez Island
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,244
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I've had poor luck with pop riveters & stainless rivets; they don't seem to live very long. I prefer stainless rivets for high load tasks like re-riveting the hinge on top of Airstream windows....
One handy tool I made is a nose extension for the rivet tool - this helps set rivets down in recessed areas such as the window supports.
For buck riveting the Vintage Trailer Supply kit has worked very well for the few hundred rivets I've used for a all-alumnum battery box, wing window replacement and rear-end separation repairs.
- Bart
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04-07-2012, 11:36 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barts
I've had poor luck with pop riveters & stainless rivets; they don't seem to live very long. I prefer stainless rivets for high load tasks like re-riveting the hinge on top of Airstream windows....
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I haven't done that many stainless, but would expect shorter tool life. They really are tough!
Quote:
Originally Posted by barts
One handy tool I made is a nose extension for the rivet tool - this helps set rivets down in recessed areas such as the window supports.
...
- Bart
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That is a great idea. I have been meaning to make one myself. In the past, I've used stacks of drilled-out pop rivet heads for a spacer by sliding a few over the mandrel before inserting it in the tool, but you don't always have those around.
__________________
Vaughan
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04-07-2012, 12:06 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1983 27' Excella
Walnut Grove/Laguna Woods
, California
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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For a hand operated tool I prefer the Marson HP-2. I sold them for many years off of my Snap-On truck. Not one problem. None ever broke. The only thing that went wrong was the jaws would wear out from use. A new set of jaws was about 40 cents, so I kept them in stock and replaced them no charge.
The tool with a small assortment of rivets in a nice case is available at Amazon for about $30.00.
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04-08-2012, 09:37 PM
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#17
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(-1 Rivet_
1965 20' Globetrotter
Jackson
, California
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 175
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Stainless rivets,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
What kind of rivets, solid shank (buck) or blind?
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Aerowood, where would I use stainless rivets on an airstream? Just wondering
How about a pnuematic pop rivet gun to replace the interior? Think it's a good idea? I have a 20' GT (1965)
I was thinking the two kits from VTS to start, gives me a little of everything including an olympic shaver.
TIMK
__________________
Thanks in advance!
TAC CA-77
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04-08-2012, 10:43 PM
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#18
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Maniacal Engineer
1971 25' Tradewind
Lopez Island
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88
Aerowood, where would I use stainless rivets on an airstream? Just wondering
How about a pnuematic pop rivet gun to replace the interior? Think it's a good idea? I have a 20' GT (1965)
I was thinking the two kits from VTS to start, gives me a little of everything including an olympic shaver.
TIMK
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I use stainless pop rivets when I want extra strength and I can't use a bucked rivet such as fastening window hinges using reversed pop rivets
or securing the bottom trim rail in the rear of the trailer.
- Bart
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04-09-2012, 04:00 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
1969 18' Caravel
Jensen Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 32
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I bought the least expensive air over hydraulic pop rivet gun from HF (about $45) and it works OK but it does jam quite a bit. Special care has to be taken to be sure the spent rivet stem is clear of the jaws before driving another, but usually a simple shake of the gun will do this. It is much more troublesome when using olympic blind rivets and any kind of sealer as the sealer causes the spent stem to hang up in the gun and causes problems with the next rivet driven. It's easy to unjam, just screw off the nose piece that holds the jaws and clear out the stem pieces, but it takes time . Also the nose piece won't fit in tight places and I had to resort to a hand driver on many interior wall moldings. In hindsight, I don't think it was worth it for me as it didn't really save that much time.
I also couldn't justify the money for a head shaver, a small sanding disk in a drill was good enough for the 200 olympic heads I had to do. It only takes a few seconds for each one and I seriously doubt anyone would have an issue with the results.
As for a buck riveting gun, I borrowed one from a buddy who worked in the aircraft industry. He said " I haven't used it since I stole it 7 years ago". An add on craigslist would probably turn up a used one for a reasonable price.
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04-09-2012, 07:18 AM
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#20
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Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
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Jonesway at Fastenal
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickDavis
Has anyone tried the air powered ones like Harbor Freight sells??
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I recently purchased a Jonesway air/hydraulic riveter at Fastenal. It was sitting there on the shelf for years so the manager gave me a great deal. It takes it a lot of grunt to pull 3/16" stainless rivets, but it got it done. I wish I would have bought one years ago.
For the regular manual blind riveter, I got a new Pop brand riveter from Brown Aviation and Aircraft Tools a while back. The Arrow swivel head had to be relegated to the scrap metal pile. I very much prefer the non swivel version.
For solid riveting, I have the solid rivet kit from VTS. Works great.
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
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