Big tool sale goin on....My question is what would be your choice of air compressor....12volt, or 120volt and buy a invertor? or would you buy one of each? how about size?
norby
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I guess the question would be 'What is the main use of the compressor going to be?' 12V work well but tend to have very low CFM so you are limited to its uses. 120V gives you more usable options (higher CFM) but tend to be less portable. Other words to answer your ? I have no idea which is better so buy both
I would have to say no. I have not come across any 12v ones that can pump a tire up to 80lbs. I had a rather good one that had trouble pumping car tires to 44 lbs. I would say go for a 120v one. They do make several smaller portable ones (contractors use them for air nailers) that would do the job. IMO a 12v one would more than likely be a waste of money, but I've been wrong before. If it was me I'd get a 120v one.
a nice midsized 120volt one for the garage, big enough to run a 1/2 inch impact gun.
a portable refillable air tank with hose. would be handy when you run up to wisco to get your trailer and just need to "fluff" the trailer tires a bit before taking off.
and a 12 volt one for the tow vehicle, i have one that will allegedly fill up to 200 psi. i think one would die of old age before this would happen. but, on the side of the interstate it would be better than nothing!
john
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I bought my 1st compressor (8.5hp/15gal) about 10 yrs. ago. I needed good cfm's for 'refurbing' a sailboat (not professionally/week-end warrior). Over the years my air-tool inventory grew (tool for tool less expensive than elect.). I now have three compressors counting the 1st, + a portable tank. #2 is a small, portable, 120vac, good for brad/sm.nail gun etc. #3 is a 12vdc kept in the pick-up for trailer & truck tires. They kind of grew on me.
As pointed out, what tools are you going to use determine the size unit you buy. All air-tools list the cfm requirement, that's the min. size to buy. If you buy too small you'll spend most of your time waiting for recovery.
I have a 12v heavy duty compressor that is rated to run continuously. It has oversize gears and a big cooling fan inside. I find that it does great on my 65# tires, athough I have to be patient. I'm sure that it would reach 80# eventually, but you might have a gray beard by then.
I have one of the portable battery packs from Sam's Club that has a cigarette-lighter type outlet. That solves the problem of topping the tires out at the storage place where I have no AC power. Nice to top up the power mower, also without running a cord.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
We figured with 10 good size tires to watch over, a good choice was the sears for under $100
Craftsman 2 hp UMC Hand
Held Compressor
Sears Item #00915235000
It was also very useful for blowing out the water lines when we winterized the trailer.
So far we are pleased with its performance.
Originally posted by norbert Big tool sale goin on....My question is what would be your choice of air compressor....12volt, or 120volt and buy a invertor? or would you buy one of each? how about size?
norby
Money no object I would look for a 60gallon or so 2 stage 220 v capable of over 8.0 CFM at 90PSI. for the shop and a CO2 tank for the road. The above site lists CO2, Engine driven and 12v.
The main compressor they list fir the engine driven is a Yoke A/C compress used on Volvo, Fords and may cars. You can pick up a used one from the Junk yard for around $30 and do the same thing with some fabrication. If your intersted I can point yo to several sites that have the how too information. The big thing that has to be done is it needs a oil passage blocked or it will send oil inot the out going air.
That little tank of CO2 will go a LONG way. One of my buddes has that for his off road truck and it will fill big 35's pretty quick and it will fill about 40 of them. Refill is about $15.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Ohh yeah those oilless compressors sears sells....VERY VERY VERY LOUD! The old belt drive pumper is much more quiet but it's pretty loud as well. High CFM 2 stage means it recovers faster and runs less.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Sent you a pm. I don't see a bow-sprit but that looks a lot like our P/S Dana. The Bronze & teak are nice! Looks like you'll need a compressor for bottom work, unless you have a yard do it!
If you hit the FAQ at www.onboardair.com They have a excelent how too section. I really like this site and the people running it. They knew this was common knowledge and instead of trying to pretend it wasn't they worked it from a onstop shop site so you can buy everything or just a couple things and find the rest yourself.
Now you can do this to just about any A/C compressor. Some will take the abuse longer then others. THe Fridgidair "Logs" GM used seem to do the worst from a longgevity stand point. The yorks are widly reguarded as the best. The Sanden that is used on a lot of current cars does ok.
Another alternative is School buses and stuff like Unimogs have Air compressors on them. The one off a GM powered school busfrom the 80's is awsome but takes a lot more plumbing. It is continuous duty. It oils off the vehicles engine so you have to plumb in a drain back to the sump. It also is tied into the vehicles cooling system. VERY HD unit and I hear they run about 8 CFM at 90psi at 1800 engine RPM's.
The actuall plumbing is the easy part as far as the air lines and control valve. The big thing is getting it to mount on the engine. That takes some custom fabrication.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
I haven't gotten too serious about the air compressor. I have a small 12 volt in the truck and a 5 hp at the house. I have been thinking about installing a portable 5 gallon tank that is filled by a 12 volt compressor with a pressure switch set at 125 lbs. and a valve stem type fill connection that could be used for refills by my home compressor or one at a service station. A small electric source would be all that was needed and with quick disconnects the tank could be removed and taken to the individual tire that needed inflation
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If your intersted I can point yo to several sites that have the how too information. The big thing that has to be done is it needs a oil passage blocked or it will send oil inot the out going air. 
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