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Old 10-07-2009, 05:14 PM   #15
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Last time I was at the factory, I asked the service techs about the foam in place insulation. The response - "Most crumble, but some may be OK.... until you have to replace a segment or panel. It sticks to EVERYTHING and almost doubles the labor cost to remove a panel. If we KNOW it's under there, we recommend just laying another piece on top of the damage and fastening it with aluminum rivets."

Paula
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:25 PM   #16
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Hi Paula,
This is not spray-in foam, but flexible polyurethane foam with reflective foil on both sides. It gets cut to size and taped in place. I have heard enough bad stuff about the spray-in to stay away from it. If you're interested in researching it more look at www.insulation4less.com It's called Prodex.

Thanks, Rich
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Old 10-07-2009, 06:00 PM   #17
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I purchased 700 sq.ft. and it barely covered my 22' safari with 2 layers. Keep in mind that I have more windows-per-foot than most(9 total), so you should adjust your figures accordingly. Also, get the tape from them. It was a better deal than I could find anywhere else.
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Rich, I've been planning prodex as well and put the order in this morning. Thinking about the double layer like you did, especially with your info that the one roll did your Safari. Can't really tell from your pics, did you run your wiring in the airspace between the two layers?

cheers,
steve
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:03 AM   #18
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Yes, that's exactly how I did it. I'll try to post some pictures of it if I can find some decent ones.
Rich
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:11 PM   #19
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Are you also using Prodex under the floor?
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:15 AM   #20
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I used rust-proof 'Monel' staples and Vulkem to install Prodex under the floor - a border strip two-inches wide around each panel, and a two layer Prodex center standoff to add more air gap and provide drainage if water ever gets between the floor and insulation.

I plan to add blankets on the spars stitched on with ty-wraps before it gets closed up.
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:46 PM   #21
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I plan on using sheets of polyurethane foam to fill the cavities under the floor completely. It can double as a raft if it keeps raining like this. I just need to find that old outboard motor...
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Old 10-14-2009, 10:42 PM   #22
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I plan on using sheets of polyurethane foam to fill the cavities under the floor completely. It can double as a raft if it keeps raining like this. I just need to find that old outboard motor...
You mean you don't have a pair of wooden oars? SHAME..
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:51 AM   #23
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I used rust-proof 'Monel' staples and Vulkem to install Prodex under the floor - a border strip two-inches wide around each panel, and a two layer Prodex center standoff to add more air gap and provide drainage if water ever gets between the floor and insulation.

I plan to add blankets on the spars stitched on with ty-wraps before it gets closed up.

Is one layer of prodex enough for the underbelly? How did you use it in the banana wrap? Or did you use something else in that area?
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Old 11-12-2009, 12:44 PM   #24
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Prodex in a floor is excellent in a cool or cold weather climate - its not so good at keeping heat from rising into the floor - specs from website:

heat flow down (1) layer of Prodex *R 15.67

heat flow up (1) layer of Prodex *R 6.00

The specifications on the prodex website are with 2 & 2/3 inches air gap. Thats easy to do on a stick built housing structure but hard to do elsewhere.

Prodex - and all reflective type insulation - work especially well at reflecting heat 'upward' and cold 'downward' - the important part to remember is it needs a dead air space to truly work.

When heated energetic air molecules slam into the aluminum its got to be reflected back without imparting much heat energy and a large air gap reduces the number of times it can ricochet around, multiply that by billions & billions of nitrogens and oxygens and you see what the score is.

I put prodex in primarily since it does not provide aide and comfort to rodents - and left the air gap intentionally small at 1/4 to 1/2 inch to keep little vermin condos out of that air gap.

The spar area was done the same way - two inch strips around the exposed plywood area edges glued on with vulkem and then the outer shield of prodex glued to those, with a double thickness standoff in the center, then tacked for a mechanical fastening with the rustless monel staples.

It's tempting to go with another layer, of prodex of something else in the subfloor area but the real deal to worry about is the roof and walls, which I have not closed in yet...
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