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Old 08-25-2015, 08:52 PM   #15
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It is a pretty common failure item, based on threads over the years.
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:06 PM   #16
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One note, I belive the toilet is a 'macerator' toilet, not a vacuum toilet.
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:34 PM   #17
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I'm home now so can do some investigation with air pressure in the line rather than water, but I suspect it is a backflow preventer in the black tank flush line. Makes sense. The pressure at the park I was at was really high. Likely enough to "blow the lid" off the valve and spray water everywhere.

I'm inclined just to eliminate it as mentioned above. Probably help with winterizing as well...
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Old 08-27-2015, 02:36 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ted S. View Post
I have the same trailer. I use the tank rinser by closing the blank tank knife valve, turning on the water to the tank rinser and filling the tank to 75-80%, then opening the knife valve and dumping the tank. Then repeat.
I was under the impression that that the knife valve had to be open when doing this.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:03 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
I was under the impression that that the knife valve had to be open when doing this.
That is the recommendation from Airstream and the flush people. This is to prevent an overflow of the black tank. But if you know your black tank is not too full a technique is to turn on the water and let the tank get some volume in it for a more complete dump. BUT!!! Don't make the mistake (like I did) of having a fairly full tank and turning on the flush with the valve closed. Or you just might have a big brown stinky mess. And your wife will not be pleased.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:17 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
Went to use the sanitary flush line on my new trailer for the first time and heard the sound of water inside! Quickly stopped before too much damage but did make a small flood.

Trying to investigate the cause and noticed this clear plastic piece? What is it? I believe it's on the flush line. It's open with no top. I suppose it should be covered???
There is a drawing at this website that shows this part
Waste Holding Tank Flushing System

The part in your photo is a check valve that prevents black water from back-flowing out of the black tank flush inlet.
It is also a vacuum relief valve that is supposed to allow any water trapped in this system to drain into the black tank. Sometimes, if it does not drain properly or it is used during cold weather it freezes. Maybe that's what happened to yours.

edit:
If you decide to not use a check valve, add a cap to the inlet. That can be a place for critters to enter.
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:50 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ View Post
I was under the impression that that the knife valve had to be open when doing this.
Like Dave said, that is the recommendation. However, I dump the tanks fully, then close the valve and use the rinser up until 75% full, then dump and repeat.

Not sure if it is ok to do this, but it makes sense to me. We watch the bathroom and tank level very carefully while doing this.
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:57 PM   #22
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I just did a temporary winterizing by blowing out all the lines with 55psi and when I got to the back flush system I heard a pop when connected my air line. After reading this thread I'm worried the vacuum breaker may have come apart. Has any one had the same experience? Have a 2015 FC 23FB, does anyone know were the vacuum breaker would be located. I hate that Airstream doesn't have any plumbing diagrams!
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Old 10-19-2015, 07:41 AM   #23
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On my trailers the vac break was under the bathroom sink counter ...not sure about the newer models. Look under both kitchen and bath sink counters to start

Watch your air pressure...keep it below 50 psi for blowing lines.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:58 AM   #24
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As the son of a plumber, I would not recommend eliminating that valve. My Classic has a solid brass, made in USA, Watts Anti-Siphon Vacuum Breaker valve for the No-Fuss-Flush. Like on many other features, Airstream saved money by shifting to those cheap plastic ones. Use Google and order one that won't blow up on you.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:56 AM   #25
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I found the vacuum breaker under the kitchen sink. Was happy to see that it is brass not plastic. Hooked my air compressor up at 40psi and no leak at the vacuum breaker. I'm thinking the pop I heard was the float hitting the top of the valve without water dampening the sound.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:36 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Siegmann View Post
As the son of a plumber, I would not recommend eliminating that valve. My Classic has a solid brass, made in USA, Watts Anti-Siphon Vacuum Breaker valve for the No-Fuss-Flush. Like on many other features, Airstream saved money by shifting to those cheap plastic ones. Use Google and order one that won't blow up on you.
Seigmann....what is the Watts part number to the valve? Thx!

I've had two plastic OEM valves crack (LakeView Model 1000) and have been using the system without a valve.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:49 AM   #27
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This is what I have:

LF288A Lead Free* Hot or Cold Water Anti-Siphon Vacuum Breakers, Vacuum Breakers, Backflow Prevention - Watts
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Old 11-29-2016, 10:38 AM   #28
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Reviving an old thread. After the backflow preventer blew I took the trailer in for other work and the dealer replaced it. Seemed to work fine for a while.

I just went to winterize the trailer and I have a small hand pump that I use for that line. Well, after a few pumps and just as the antifreeze started flowing I heard a pop. Sure enough, inside the trailer was wet and it looks like it's from that valve.

I'm done with that piece of *%&% plastic piece...
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