Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-14-2015, 08:24 AM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
earlwalker's Avatar
 
1993 21' Sovereign
Scaly Mountain , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Images: 1
Water Heater Drain Plug Broken

Stupidly, I over torqued the plastic water heater drain plug and broke it off in the water heater. I've tried digging the plastic from the internal thread to no avail. I bought a tap to clean the plastic out but can't get it started. Any suggestions?
earlwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 09:00 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
AWCHIEF's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
Images: 33
Thankfully I have not had that problem. Something like this might work.
Screw Extractor Set 12 Pc

Or using progressively larger drill bits, drill the plug out a bit at a time. Carefully as to not damage the threads.
__________________
MICHAEL

Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
AWCHIEF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 09:03 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
blkmagikca's Avatar

 
1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,414
The extractor awchief suggests should work fine. Then replace the plstic/nylon plug with a brass fitting that has a valve on it - makes for emptying the tank much easier (for winterizing) and will not break like the plastic/nylon one.
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
WBCCI 8080
blkmagikca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 09:24 AM   #4
1 Rivet Member
 
earlwalker's Avatar
 
1993 21' Sovereign
Scaly Mountain , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Images: 1
I have most of the plastic out except for that left in the threads. I've not been able remove that.
earlwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 09:26 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
AWCHIEF's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
Images: 33
Time to dig out the dental pick.
__________________
MICHAEL

Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
AWCHIEF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 09:33 AM   #6
1 Rivet Member
 
earlwalker's Avatar
 
1993 21' Sovereign
Scaly Mountain , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 15
Images: 1
Thanks, I'll find one.
earlwalker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 09:37 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
HowieE's Avatar
 
1991 34' Excella
Princeton , New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
Images: 12
You may have to make a pick strong enough to work those treads.

If you grind a pick I would heat it with a torch just before applying it to the treads. Hopefully that will cause the pick to melt into the tread and thus get a better grip. Once you break one tread it should be easy to peal the rest out.

Since that is a tapered thread I would start about half way and work the inner treads free first.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles

HowieE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 09:49 AM   #8
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
An "Easy out" which is sort of like a reverse threaded tapered screw should bring it out without problem - you would need to drill a small pilot hole in the broken plastic pug in order to start the "Easy Out" into the plug.

Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 10:03 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
AWCHIEF's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
Images: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
An "Easy out" which is sort of like a reverse threaded tapered screw should bring it out without problem - you would need to drill a small pilot hole in the broken plastic pug in order to start the "Easy Out" into the plug.

Brian.
See post #4
__________________
MICHAEL

Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
AWCHIEF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 10:06 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
If this happens to anyone else, at the underground sprinkler section of your local hardware store, or big box store like Home Depot, they have what is called a nipple extractor. Generally under $5. You can drill a pilot hole in the plug and put the extractor in and unscrew the plug.

It would be of no use now to the OP as he is down to the plastic in the threads, but the product and advice might help someone else who is just starting out with a broken plastic plug.
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 10:27 AM   #11
3 Rivet Member
 
1972 27' Overlander
Woodburn , Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 131
Snap on makes great small picks that would work great for this purpose , I use them all the time to remove " O " rings in small engine carbs you just have to find one of there trucks to buy one or you can order on line
Bob
shineybullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 11:27 AM   #12
1 Rivet Member
 
2020 23' Flying Cloud
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 15
Thanks!

I read these threads every day and I'm grateful for the shared knowledge. In this instance I was amazed by the effort you responders put in to help out, especially Idroba's contribution. It was helpful beyond the call. Thank you!
Nightowl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 12:19 PM   #13
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 10,403
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
I like to pull the plug annually so that I can scour out the insides of the tank. The original plug got a seam in it and started to drip. I went over to the local SOB dealership who is close to home and bought 3 black plugs. That way I carry a couple of extras in case one fails.

Galvanic corrosion can occur when dissimilar metals have contact with each other. Aluminum and brass are reactive to each other with aluminum acting as the anode. My Atwood tank in my Airstream is aluminum. Suburban branded tanks tend to be steel and have an anode rod in them to minimize corrosion.
https://www.fastenal.com/content/fed...0Corrosion.pdf

I imagine that other than cost factors, an aluminum tank is really better off using a nylon replacement plug to help maintain tank life. That's pretty much why I scour the tank annually to remove the deposits in the tank, and continue to use nylon plugs. I use a small adjustable crescent wrench to remove the plug. It works pretty good and doesn't scar the nut end. In addition I do wrap some teflon tape around the plug threads prior to reinsertion. That minimizes the amount of tightness you need to exert to keep the plug from leaking around the threads.

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56 S/OS#15
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 01:10 PM   #14
2 Rivet Member
 
1999 25' Safari
Currently Looking...
Sparks , Nevada
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 48
Smile Drain Plug

I too have had this wonderful experience.
What I did was to use a sprinkler system riser removal tool to get the old plug out. That was however just the beginning. Seems that all the Teflon tape that I used over the years has become one with the water heater. I could not get a plastic plug to start SOooo I used a brass plug that I cut several slots across the treads to in affect make a tap. After several times of starting the plug into the heater enough Teflon was removed that I could get my new plastic (nylon) plug to start. I did use a dental pick to remove most of the remaining Teflon tape. I then found a 1/2 inch gray PVC type pipe about 2" long, both ends with male threads. I put on some Teflon tape and screwed it into the water heater. Now I use a female PVC threaded cap on the end of the pipe. When I wish to drain and clean and flush the heater I just unscrew the cap.
Vich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 01:28 PM   #15
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 10,403
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vich View Post
Seems that all the Teflon tape that I used over the years has become one with the water heater. I could not get a plastic plug to start
When I open the plug annually, i pull any residual tape off the threads in the heater. If you do this it pretty well eliminates the build up and it comes off pretty easily. If you let it build over time, I can understand that it can get a little nasty to deal with. I like to start with clean threads on both the plug and the tank.

Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56 S/OS#15
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 02:30 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vich View Post
I too have had this wonderful experience.
What I did was to use a sprinkler system riser removal tool to get the old plug out. That was however just the beginning. Seems that all the Teflon tape that I used over the years has become one with the water heater. I could not get a plastic plug to start SOooo I used a brass plug that I cut several slots across the treads to in affect make a tap. After several times of starting the plug into the heater enough Teflon was removed that I could get my new plastic (nylon) plug to start. I did use a dental pick to remove most of the remaining Teflon tape. I then found a 1/2 inch gray PVC type pipe about 2" long, both ends with male threads. I put on some Teflon tape and screwed it into the water heater. Now I use a female PVC threaded cap on the end of the pipe. When I wish to drain and clean and flush the heater I just unscrew the cap.
The tool is the same one I was referring to. Your further ideas of the cut brass plug as a tap and plastic extension plus cap are excellent ones.
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 03:23 PM   #17
3 Rivet Member
 
2014 27' FB International
Clearwater , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 109
The mpt/fpt threads are under compression. Use a hacksaw blade to carefully cut the remaining ring into segments. Cut slowly to not damage the aluminum tank threads. With luck segmenting will release the tension allowing you to rotate out the plug ring. If not use a screwdriver to knock out a segment, use needle nose pliers to pull out the remaining segments. Replace with a brass plug or valve. I have used this process to remove mpt plugs and PVC fitting for years. Not pretty but it works.
ChuckFeldt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 03:32 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
Mission , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 836
Echoing ChuckFeldt's removal technique as well as replace the plug with a (brass) valve ...
nrgtrakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 04:04 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
2007 27' Classic FB
Tupper Lake , New York
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 27
What about using a vacuum cleaner?
Diesel75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 04:24 PM   #20
Rivet Master
 
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
Images: 3
Stick with a plastic plug to prevent corrosion. Hadn't thought of this earlier but it's making me think of my trip to tractor supply earlier. They make plugs that have a threaded port/hole in the middle that you can thread another smaller plug into. Not sure of plug size on the water heater, an inch or so. You could use a 1" plug with an internal 1/2" plug. May reduce chance of breaking smaller plug in the future.
HiJoeSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water heater drain plug - 2005 Classic 30 Wingeezer Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 5 09-15-2012 06:32 AM
Atwood water heater drain plug nm1oqrz Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 33 05-14-2011 09:30 AM
Fresh water drain plug sticks skipj Fresh Water Systems 16 11-06-2009 06:43 PM
Bowen B10G water heater drain plug lebolewis Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 3 09-20-2008 11:49 AM
Needed, drain plug for hot water tank! wacnstac Fresh Water Systems 8 10-16-2007 08:22 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.