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Old 07-14-2016, 01:23 PM   #1
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Very naughty to cut a new vent opening?

1968 Overlander International without A/C:

I have a Maxxair on the way. Would it be very naughty to cut a completely new hole for the Maxxair just aft of the solar dome?

Lying in one of the twin beds right now, it looks like it would fit exactly between the concertina door and the next roof frame member. I realise I would have to get 12V to that point.

The reason I ask: to get the Maxxair to fit means having to remove one of the original curved aluminium vent frames and cutting the skins in the corners square. To my mind, cutting a completely new opening in the middle would be more respectful to this old unit than ripping out one of the existing vents. Or have I just drunk too much Bavarian beer?
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Old 07-14-2016, 02:36 PM   #2
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It is your trailer...if you feel comfortable, go for it. Your point about respecting the original vents and leaving them intact makes lots of sense to me.

I have made similar changes to my '64 with no regrets, but always going the extra mile to conserve the original look of the trailer.
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Old 07-14-2016, 03:08 PM   #3
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Old 07-14-2016, 03:15 PM   #4
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Old 07-14-2016, 06:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony hunt View Post
Would it be very naughty to cut a completely new hole for the Maxxair just aft of the solar dome?
Well, Santa might bring you a lump of coal for Christmas, but being on the "naughty" list is a lot more fun. Go for it!
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:48 PM   #6
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I just finished replacing my stock fan with a Maxxair (yes, cutting the rounded hole square) and also cutting a new 14" hole in my rear convertible lounge for another Maxxair. Not stock, but a whole lot nicer having hot stuffy air replaced in less than 5 minutes.

Go for it and you will not regret it.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:12 PM   #7
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Do it, just be careful..
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:23 AM   #8
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Thank you for all your replies. I appreciate them, especially the reminder to be careful.

The Maxxair Deluxe arrived today and I intend to fit it next week when the temperature should drop lower. I am convinced a new cut-out is the way to go.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:34 AM   #9
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This past weekend, I cut a 14x14 hole in the roof of my '67 Caravel. Once the backordered Coleman-Mach Polar Cub arrives, it will fill the hole. I contemplated using the existing vent hole for the A/C, but it would have meant the unit would hang too far rearward and look funny due to the rear roof curving downward just aft of the vent opening. The factory A/C wiring happened to be about 60" forward of the rearmost main spar/rib. Perfect. At first I was very reluctant to cut the hole, but now am fine with it as it will mean window A/C unit (installed by my uncle...PO) goes away and I get a window again.

BTW, the read lettering near the new opening was there when I opened up the ceiling. It says: "AC nope". Assuming it was written in the factory to tell production workers that this particular trailer was not to receive A/C so don't cut a hole in the roof.
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Old 07-30-2016, 01:13 AM   #10
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Thanks David.

I took a close look at images of stripped '68 Overlanders first and guessed there would be cables exactly where I wanted to cut over the twin bed area midway between the astra and solardomes.

Enclosed is a picture of the cables that were found in the cut area. I re-arranged them to the original positions for clarity in the photo.
By cutting really carefully, just thick enough to cut the metal and no more, the cables were not harmed. As soon as I could, I peeked inside the cut and moved the cables as I went.



I'm having the metal shop fabricate a simple aluminium interior frame with radiused corners to respect the interior and the astra and solardome frames. If this works out, I will post a new thread. I like the Maxx Fan so far.
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:12 AM   #11
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Thanks Tony,

This is a timely post for us. We pick up our AC unit and accessories today and plan to cut the same opening in our 68 Overlander next week. Did you make your cut just aft of the concertina door or just forward of the door?

I plan to cut a 4" diameter hole with a hole saw first to feel around for the wires. Your photo helps me know what to expect.

Roy and Marie
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:29 AM   #12
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A 4" hole saw is going to be almost impossible to control without part of it flying through the aluminum and cutting into wires. Go out and buy one of these with an appropriate blade and being careful you can gauge how far through the skin you are cutting. You then walk the blade across the cut.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 07-31-2016, 09:44 AM   #13
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+1 re using an oscillating saw (aka multi-tool saw) for custom cutting. Oscillating saws are arguably the most useful power tool development in recent decades. Many factors support this assessment: inexpensive (e.g. Harbor Freight's corded, or uncorded, w/ assorted blades for ~$30; durable as well), very compact and light, easily controlled allowing precise and visible depth control and sawblade advance, blade is ~300+ degrees rotate-able supporting "the angle of best approach" in tight spaces (vs. sabre/recip saws, hole-saws, or what-have-you-saws which typically cannot be depth controlled as finely as an oscillator saw can be, nor can other types of saws get "close enough" nor "angled correctly" for many custom tasks).
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:00 AM   #14
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Thanks, will do.
Roy
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