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Old 05-23-2012, 04:44 PM   #1
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2004 25' Safari
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Under panels

I was driving home with my trailer and the rear underbelly panel disconnected for about three feet from the rear bumper, exposing the insulation. The sheet metal bottom tore away from the rivets am
Nd it was flapping in the wind since it was still connected beginning at the rear stabilizer. The insulation appeared to be all wet. Since it was raining the last couple of days, I suspect there may have been a leak that saturated the insulation adding extra weight that caused it to fall. Should I just screw the panel back up or is there something more that I must do? Thanks for any suggestions
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:18 PM   #2
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Go ahead and screw it up until you have time to attach with wide head belly pan rivets. Give things a check while you can see underneath.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:45 PM   #3
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Are those rivets available somewhere?
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:13 PM   #4
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Are there any other thoughts as to what would have caused this. I noticed that the prior owner put a piece of duct tape under the entire length of the rear bumper connecting it to the underbelly. That tape was coming off. Perhaps that was put there to keep the water out?
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Garyj View Post
Are there any other thoughts as to what would have caused this. I noticed that the prior owner put a piece of duct tape under the entire length of the rear bumper connecting it to the underbelly. That tape was coming off. Perhaps that was put there to keep the water out?
yes the rivets are available , Airstream has them so should inland rv and out of doors mart . you might want to find out where your leak is comeing from.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:40 AM   #6
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If the gray tank is too full, it looks like it may overflow out the air vent in the rear storage compartment. It is about ten inches off the the floor. We were near capacity when we started driving and perhaps that is where the water came from. Does that sound reasonable since I cannot find any other leaks?
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:05 PM   #7
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On ours the rivets are only slightly larger than the holes drilled in the sheet metal. Driving causes vibration which cases the holes to gradually get larger. I have replaced 5 rivets with stainless steel screws and large washers. I drill a hole in the rivet appropriate to the size of the replacement screw. The rivet head can be pried off and the screw inserted. I think it screws into the frame. It appears the sheet metal is poorly sealed at the edges and water could get in by splashing through puddles. Screws and washers are easily bought at hardware stores and it is good to have some spares when the next rivet wears through the sheet metal.

This was all at the rear of the trailer. I don't think there are any tanks back there. They should be under the middle of the trailer.

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Old 05-24-2012, 12:06 PM   #8
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I hope this is where I ask questions . . . Hi there, I'm a new guy and I'm stuck . . . Have 1972 Argosy, and I want to upgrade the Converter that contains fuses for trailer brakes, running lights and interior lights. I want to install new intelligent converter. How do I integrate the new converter to the fuse box of the old converter?? Is it possible to wire from battery to the new converter then to the old converter to incorporate the existing fuse box?? ...Echogram
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:32 PM   #9
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Echo', this is not the place, but welcome to the Forum. This is a thread about reattaching sheet metal under the trailer. Look on the Forums tab at the upper left of the page. You will find all sorts of subforums about things like converters and start reading. There is a lot of information about replacing old converters. You will find answers amongst the chaos.

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Old 05-24-2012, 01:15 PM   #10
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The vent is on the drain pipe from the kitchen sink. I have a 25' Safari. The drain pipe goes to the rear of the trailer under the bed, which is accessed from the outside storage door. On the drain pipe in the storage compartment, there is a vent that goes up about 10 inches. The drain pipe then continues on to the gray water tank.
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:21 PM   #11
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The vent you refer to should have what looks like a hat on top. It is to equalize pressure in the drain line to allow the water to flow. It should not leak. Replacements are available where plumbing supplies are sold. There's a possibility there's a crack in the line from freezing.

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Old 05-24-2012, 02:47 PM   #12
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Thank you for all the info
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Old 05-24-2012, 03:14 PM   #13
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These are excellent rivets for the belly pan.
Large Flange Rivets
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