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Old 01-01-2016, 02:06 PM   #61
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There is no need to zero a split-beam torque wrench. I have both a 1/2" drive and 3/4" drive Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench - I got the 3/4" when I had an AS LY diesel pusher, and after selling the moho and replacing with the Excella trailer, I got the 1/2" torque wrench. See Precision Instruments: Split Beam Click Wrenches
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:19 PM   #62
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I've either got to get mine calibrated, or get a split beam. I've stored mine under tension for YEARS... Would love to see how far off it is. Might explain the last head gasket replacement failure I had... Only got 50,000 miles out of it.

-Red, shopping wrenches...
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Old 01-01-2016, 03:42 PM   #63
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Red,

You have a chance to at least check your torque wrench.

Put a pretty big bolt on a vise, you'll need a socket to go with it.
Find something that weighs maybe 20-25 lbs. The value also depends on the range of the wrench.
Measure from the center line of the bolt to a specific spot on the handle. IF you have a pivot pin handle like a beam type does, use that as the spot to measure to.
Convert the length measured in inches to decimal feet. 18" is 1.5" for example.
Multiply the measured length in feet by the weight of your weight. 1.5 ft X 25 lb = 37.5 lb-ft.

Set the clicker at the calculated value.

Now position the wrench and socket on the bolt horizontally and use a strap or such to hang the weight right at the spot that you measured at the handle. Beam type try to make the weight balance on the pivot pin.

Does it click or do you have to push down on it or lift it back up? Beam pointer on target?

This does not calibrate, but it can do a quick check to see it you're in range or wacko.

One great thing about the torque wrench, its a force at a known distance, no opinions, no YMMV, no fuzzy logic. Just a value.
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Old 01-01-2016, 04:42 PM   #64
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My Dad taught me how to install a tire 40 years ago. Put a little axle grease on each stud before you put the lug nut on the stud. Get them all finger tight. Snug them up in a star pattern with a 4-way, then torque them "good and tight" with the 4-way. I have driven my cars and trucks well over a combined million miles.
I would not do it any other way.
As far as tire shops go.... I drop my tires of in the morning and pick them up on my way home from work. My experience was more bad than good. Typically they over torque them with the impact wrench and I can barely get them off. Not to mention the damage they can do by putting the floor jack someplace its not supposed to be. Most people never look under their uni-body car to see the damage careless mechanics create with a floor jack.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:32 PM   #65
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Wink

........"Put a little axle grease on each stud"....SNIP


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Old 01-01-2016, 07:51 PM   #66
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Check out craftsman too.
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:06 PM   #67
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I have always loved Craftsman tools... Sears has always stood behind their lifetime warranty, no questions asked. I lived about a half mile down the road from the Ford dealership in Sanford Fl way back in the day, and they'd turn around their test drives after maintenance right in the entrance to our subdivision... Any tools left under the hood ALWAYS fell out right there. I picked them up all the time. When you got a Craftsman, good or bad, it was always a win...

-Red, taking the free tools when he can get them...
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:14 PM   #68
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Neither here nor there with regard to the original post, but IMHO, Craftsman tools ain't what they used to be.


Brevi tempore!
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:32 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Rockets ain't the same as lug nuts....

#JustSayin.

I think that anyone who wants to use a torque wrench to tighten wheels should do so, but as far as my vehicles go, I will keep doing what I have been doing (without incident) for the last 35 years.

Were those flathead Fords 21 stud or 24 stud heads?


Brevi tempore!

Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
To the greatest extent, pulling a lug nut down tight short of pulling or stripping the threads is not going to be too tight to hurt anything. (Wheel studs are very, very strong.

Most Wheels that come lose on the road are due to improperly seated or piloted wheels. This is true for most broken wheel studs as well.

The odds of me leaving a wheel too lose is going to be about zero, irregardless if I use a torque wrench or not.


Brevi tempore!
Not trying to be critical of you, just explaining my thought process:

Would I leave the lug nuts loose? No way I would do that. I used to be inclined to just crank the lug nuts down with an air wrench or a 4 way. I did this for years and years too. I never had a wheel or lug come off. I worked my way school (back in the 60's & 70's) at a service station. While I worked there I'm sure I changed thousands of wheels. I broke a few lug bolts, not a big deal to repair. After having to replace some brake rotors that got warped from overtightening, I started thinking more about controlled tightening.

Since aluminum wheels are so soft I knew I could deform the lug nut holes if I got the lugs too tight. So, I always did these by hand. No air wrench, just tightened till they felt right. As far as I know, no wheels or lug nuts came off. However, I did find some loose nuts after several miles.

I've learned from a few examples posted here on this forum that aluminum or mag wheels' lug nuts are especially susceptible to coming loose in the first few hundred miles even after they have been tightened perfectly to the correct torque. Rust and debris compressed between the hub and wheel can sometimes work its way out, letting the wheels loosen as it moves down the road. That is why I check at the intervals after the lugs have been loose.

If I had steel wheels on the trailer, I would probably still be cranking them down.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:31 AM   #70
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To your question about a torque wrench for both the AS and TV: Yes, get one that will do both. Ford says to torque my F150 wheels to 150 ft. lbs. As has been stated here, accuracy is better nearer the middle of the wrench's range. I don't think Harbor Freight offers a wrench with capacity greater than 150. I bought this CDI:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00
It's beautiful, but I'm a tool guy and willing to spend the money. I've read that CDI is actually made by Snap-On in Milwaukee.

In addition to the torque wrench you should get a good long breaker bar. Don't use your torque wrench to remove the lug nuts. Harbor Freights sells a couple 25 inchers that are good but longer ones are available elsewhere. Harbor also sells this "flip" socket set:
1/2 in. Drive Impact Flip Socket Set 3 Pc
It is very handy--it probably has all the lug nut sizes you will ever come across and the 3" extension gets the head of the wrench above the hub cap on my 2014FC.

Finally, the "chrome lug nuts" that will come on your AS probably have chrome caps that will come off after a few "wrenchings". This makes for a pretty sloppy fit with a 3/4" socket. McGard 64010 nuts are not cheep, but they are bullet proof:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:52 PM   #71
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Our HF has some big ones now. They did not last spring, but when I checked this Fall their selection included higher capacity sizes. Caution.....make sure you set the click for the correct torque setting. The HF wrench is a bit difficult to read. Pat
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Old 01-06-2016, 04:47 PM   #72
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Quick question from the mechanically challenged...What torque setting do I use for the 14" wheels standard on my AS 2015 FC 23ft?
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:11 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Longboard6 View Post
Quick question from the mechanically challenged...What torque setting do I use for the 14" wheels standard on my AS 2015 FC 23ft?

I'm not 100% sure - do you have your Airstream manual? It will tell you in there. Mine is 110 ft lbs (15"aluminum wheels).
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Old 01-08-2016, 10:36 AM   #74
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Harbor freight has their torque wrenches on sale this weekend $9.99. Everone should have one at this price.

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Old 01-09-2016, 09:08 AM   #75
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Sears has 3/8 drives on sale at $49.99. Much better quality than HF.
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:19 AM   #76
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Probably made in the same plant in China. Both have the same free replacement warranty.

My point was if you don't have one for $10.00 if you are in the area of the Harbor Freight store you should have one. If you don't like it no big loss for you and without some type of way to test one versus the other can't see the higher cost for a smaller wrench from Sears.
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Old 01-09-2016, 11:37 AM   #77
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Quote:
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Sears has 3/8 drives on sale at $49.99. Much better quality than HF.

Amen!
I have a nearly 30 year old Craftsman beam style. Works great-


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Old 01-10-2016, 08:44 AM   #78
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I have the set of 3 HF torque wrenches. I needed one for my batteries. 120 inch pounds. The one from HF did not work as expected, even with low expectations. The one I purchased from Sears is very much a better quality than the one from HF. I can't imagine them being made in the same factory. China is a big place.
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Old 01-10-2016, 08:59 AM   #79
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Hey there Papa Smurf, since you are in Canada and since the majority of answers appear to be coming from users in the USA, I thought I might give a Canadian option or two. First Choice... Canadian Tire Corp. They often put their 1/2 inch torque wrench and breaker bar combo on sale for 50% off. I have purchased two of these sets for myself and my son. Remember to use the breaker bar to bust the wheel nuts loose and not your torque wrench, saves the expensive torque wrench from abuse. My second suggestion would be the Princess Auto torque wrenches, they are the equivalent of Harbour Freight. the prices are usually good and sometimes great when a sale comes up but the quality is questionable. I threw my PA torque wrench away a couple of years ago as its calibration was really off.

PS... Congratulations on your upcoming delivery, you must be very excited.
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Old 01-10-2016, 09:02 AM   #80
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I sometimes think Harbor Freight's inventory is factory rejects- couldn't pas QC inspections-
Case in point:
Power inverters-
Harbor Freight version appears identical to Coleman, but won't last a year- so you better buy replacement warranty/insurance-
Open end wrenches $1- bought several- fit absolutely nothing SAE or metric!
Waste of money!
Got no use for Harbor Freight!


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