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Old 09-29-2009, 12:49 PM   #1
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Question Toilet & Floor replacement Project, '92 Limited 34

Relatively new owner, Just discovered rotten floor under toilet, 1.5 by 3 foot section has to come out!

New Sealand toilet, plywood, drills, small saws, tanks cleaned, entire area opened up & dried out. Rotten area under rear of older toilet extends under rear bulkhead into stern berth area, that area of floor/carpet also removed & opened up to be cut out.

Any advise, directions greatly appreciated.

Owned & lived on mega sailboats, repaired anything & everything on a boat/sailboat. Airstream is all new to me. No idea of the frame underneath, steel, distances apart, etc....

Thanks for any time/help.

Frank Burgett
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:19 PM   #2
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yuck

I suspect your floor has the same issues mine had.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...oor-54952.html
See post #52 for the bad spots in mine, #63 shows the area that was replaced and #26 shows Catson4's bath with the floor removed. You can see the frame rails. There is an additional cross member just behind the bath wall, in the bedroom. This was the location where I ended my splice. The foward most splice was just foward of the cross member between the toilet and the shower.

Set a circular saw to cut the same depth as the thickness of the ply and try to make straight cuts. I used a jack to flex the ceiling upward, lifting the bath/bedroom wall enough to slide the floor patch in place from the rear. I did have to remove the bed frame to make room. Doubler pieces were installed under each section of splice. The bath area is MUCH easier than the ends and having to deal with the curves and the C channel

Good luck!
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Old 10-01-2009, 01:09 PM   #3
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Thanks for your help/time. Loaded up every tool/supply I can think of for repairs. So far in mountains hard to go to any hardward store.

If you by chance have any pics of open floor area/frame that would be nice.

Direct frank@coastalbrokerage.com in Mobile, Limited up north Alabama at farm. Have laptop, but mega slow there.

Plan to use drill, limited distance, do not want to cut tank, if can connect to frame it should work OK I hope.

Thank you, your comments have helped with project.
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Old 10-01-2009, 06:40 PM   #4
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Not much to a rear bath unit when you look behind the curtain..

Backing/joining plates are not perfect, double up on fasteners and make them wider than first choice would be, the surrounding plywood has 18+ years on it so it may be loosing its temper and softening... Beware interference with the tank and/or the outer shield box, take metal cutting tools as you might have to trim the bent sheet metal flange depending on where your floor cuts end up at. Prime the wood edges and backs of anything you put in. If toilet has allowed weight to shift from flooring to tank be prepared for cracks in tank.

I seem to remember being short largish C-Clamps when hanging joining plates - and a countersink bit might be helpfull to evenly seat screws, I would not use countersink unless certain plywood sections are hard enough to thwart a nice even crush seating OR if the backing wood does not give enough bite to pull the screw heads flush. Gauge fasteners well, no drilling tank with oversize screws. Someone will thank you if you use coated deck or other non-rusting fasteners.

Good luck!
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
Not much to a rear bath unit when you look behind the curtain..

Backing/joining plates are not perfect, double up on fasteners and make them wider than first choice would be, the surrounding plywood has 18+ years on it so it may be loosing its temper and softening... Beware interference with the tank and/or the outer shield box, take metal cutting tools as you might have to trim the bent sheet metal flange depending on where your floor cuts end up at. Prime the wood edges and backs of anything you put in. If toilet has allowed weight to shift from flooring to tank be prepared for cracks in tank.

I seem to remember being short largish C-Clamps when hanging joining plates - and a countersink bit might be helpfull to evenly seat screws, I would not use countersink unless certain plywood sections are hard enough to thwart a nice even crush seating OR if the backing wood does not give enough bite to pull the screw heads flush. Gauge fasteners well, no drilling tank with oversize screws. Someone will thank you if you use coated deck or other non-rusting fasteners.

Good luck!
Thank you for advise/time, gonna give it a good shot this weekend.
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:42 PM   #6
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It's Saturday night and we await an update of the progress!
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and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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