I have a leak between the shower pan and the shower p-trap so I removed the belly skin only to find exactly where the leak is but I also discovered a rotten cross member. Once again my mind invisions me removing the entire bathroom in our recently acquired 66 Caravel to fix these problems. Please tell me that I am over reacting and my life is really not in the toilet!
Actually I have stopped freaking out long enough to figure a posible remedy. The verticle parts of the cross member seems solid. It is the horizontal to part, that the floor is bolted to that is totally trashed. My thoughts are to clean it up as good as posible, coat it with rust away paint and sandwhich a new right along side of it and bolt it to the old one. This will support the plywood subfloor, which amazingly enough, show little water damage. What do you think?
The configuration should be screw-in drain into a piece above the 'P-trap'. Similar to a home sink/bathtub.
Hopefully, you can unscrew from above and then surround that piece with plumber's putty. Screw it back it. Let it settle, remaining dry until the putty sets.
Chris--- Thanks for your response. I have worked on home plumbing and have experienced exactly what you have described however I am a little nervous to reef on it as you used the word "should". I wondering if there is anyone out there who has first experience actually removing this part.
Chris--- Thanks for your response. I have worked on home plumbing and have experienced exactly what you have described however I am a little nervous to reef on it as you used the word "should". I wondering if there is anyone out there who has first experience actually removing this part.
I have removed a bunch of those and they should screw out. The word should is used because they can be froze up with corrosion and be a bear to remove.
Chris, Thanks for explaining that to me.Do you have any tricks for the stubborn ones? Should I have someone with a wrench underneath holding the plastic fittings so I crack something loose and end up with a bigger mess?
Chris, Thanks for explaining that to me.Do you have any tricks for the stubborn ones? Should I have someone with a wrench underneath holding the plastic fittings so I crack something loose and end up with a bigger mess?
I took a pipe and cut 4 slots into the end so it fits down into the drain and I can put a pipe wrench on it. Wiggle it back and forth till something turns. The plastic is stronger then the cross pieces in the drain and will break out if too much pressure is used.
Congrats on your purchase! I have removed mine too easiest part was the drain as for the pipe I cut it out see my thread caravel with issues. My black tank was caved in and there was a few escape holes in the floor. Plan on using ours in aug but for now we still have to get the shell off! Do you have pictures of the top side of the caravel?
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Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
Stephan do your self a favor and take out your ladder and LOOK at the plumbing vent on the top of your caravel. If there is a crack or line at the base of the vents (both sides) get some epoxy at the hardware store and paint the epoxy around the base of the vent outside as those cracks will leak which was the second reason for the renovation. Both of mine were cracked and they are out of stock and have been for months.
Cliff
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Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
Nobody has responded to your proposed fix to the frame work.. Something along those lines is what came to mind immediately. If in doubt.. or for a professional second opinion.. clean up the area, so you can see exactly the extent of damage, then call up a good trailer shop and ask them for a second opinion or their idea of a fix.. They will likely say weld.. as thats what they do.. and would probably fix it for you for $50. Looks like you may need to get the tub drain out of the way first. That will show you the bottom side of the tub and the piece you are trying to reseal.. I believe you can buy a tool from the home depot that is designed to pull those.. special wrench. Mine came right out.. Yours may be stubborn as you have had leaks in that area.. maybe rusted. Dont fret.. Very minor fixes here.
50.00 maybe in 1966! Labor hour 125.00 + added fees trailers are land yachts witch = hole on land you throw money into. Check the price of parts lately? Rear upper panel for airstream 1400.00 30 cent window clip for 5.00 if you can find them. No bust on Andy or Colin they gotta make some too and they don't get it for cheap, i for one am glad they are there so we can get parts and advice. It is the cost of inflation and that is why we do so much ourselves and besides its fun! Jason you are good but then you do most of your own work but there are just a few places where you can get quality work at low prices and those guys will never be rich just honest! Okay I have run my mouth and put in my two cents worth and I am sorry if I offended any one it was not intentional.
Cliff
Ps I live on the coast where a stainless steel screw cost 1.59 at lowes or 2.79 at west marine.
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Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
Youre right.. most places $50 doesn't get the guy on his knees to tell you its $300.. But, there are exceptions, like you mentioned.. Just 2 days ago, I took my old Jeep down to a local shop as the front of the frame where the steering box mounts to was cracked.. They welded it.. ground down the weld and welded a patch over that for $30.. Took them 20-30 minutes. So, I would say it depends on the place, your attitude and how well prepped the area is.. Anything you can do to make it quicker for them will save you. I really think you need to do more clean up work.. take a 4" grinder with a wire wheel on it and appropriate protection, and clean that area up.. Tough saying what the condition is of that metal by that crusty pic. Regardless, its nothing to be getting your panties in wad over. Be pumped that the wood sub-floor looks so good!! And congrats on your purchase of a very desireable Airstream!
Jason
Thanks jason, we have the same kinda shop here and others that want a credit score before a tune up. The more you do and the better your attitude the better off you'll be. I will be putting in braces on sat to take the shell off our caravel (outrigger, rotted floor amongst other things). Had a very good fabricator tell me to bring him the outrigger and he will make me one for a case of beer. $14. For an outrigger is not bad and he said that he would weld it on if time permits. So there are good people out there just gotta find them and not forget them when they need a favor.
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Gotta get busy! Have a great day! Now where did I put those revits?
I am happy to report that I removed the drain flange with no disasters. My little pea brain tells me to use silicone to seal it however I would like to know what you all recommend. As far as the crossmember is concerned I think that the sandwich job will work however I am minutes from a trailer place and it would be easy to let them have a look. Attached is drawing of my proposed fix. Thanks to everyone for your help.
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