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Old 05-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #1
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1966 17' Caravel
Klamath Falls , Oregon
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The deeper I look, the more trouble I have

I have a leak between the shower pan and the shower p-trap so I removed the belly skin only to find exactly where the leak is but I also discovered a rotten cross member. Once again my mind invisions me removing the entire bathroom in our recently acquired 66 Caravel to fix these problems. Please tell me that I am over reacting and my life is really not in the toilet!
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:49 PM   #2
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Is there just surface rust and some pitting, or has it eaten all the way through your crossmember?
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:56 PM   #3
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Actually I have stopped freaking out long enough to figure a posible remedy. The verticle parts of the cross member seems solid. It is the horizontal to part, that the floor is bolted to that is totally trashed. My thoughts are to clean it up as good as posible, coat it with rust away paint and sandwhich a new right along side of it and bolt it to the old one. This will support the plywood subfloor, which amazingly enough, show little water damage. What do you think?
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:12 PM   #4
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One more thing. The drain is leaking around shower pan plug fitting. Does this unscrew or am I stuck trying to seal it around the hairline gap.
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:33 PM   #5
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Plumber's Putty...

Hi Stefandmissy,

The configuration should be screw-in drain into a piece above the 'P-trap'. Similar to a home sink/bathtub.

Hopefully, you can unscrew from above and then surround that piece with plumber's putty. Screw it back it. Let it settle, remaining dry until the putty sets.

Good Luck,
Chris
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:40 PM   #6
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Chris--- Thanks for your response. I have worked on home plumbing and have experienced exactly what you have described however I am a little nervous to reef on it as you used the word "should". I wondering if there is anyone out there who has first experience actually removing this part.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:16 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Stefandmissy View Post
Chris--- Thanks for your response. I have worked on home plumbing and have experienced exactly what you have described however I am a little nervous to reef on it as you used the word "should". I wondering if there is anyone out there who has first experience actually removing this part.
I have removed a bunch of those and they should screw out. The word should is used because they can be froze up with corrosion and be a bear to remove.
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:47 PM   #8
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Chris, Thanks for explaining that to me.Do you have any tricks for the stubborn ones? Should I have someone with a wrench underneath holding the plastic fittings so I crack something loose and end up with a bigger mess?
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Old 05-23-2013, 10:50 PM   #9
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Correction Thank you Shacksman
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:37 AM   #10
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Chris, Thanks for explaining that to me.Do you have any tricks for the stubborn ones? Should I have someone with a wrench underneath holding the plastic fittings so I crack something loose and end up with a bigger mess?
I took a pipe and cut 4 slots into the end so it fits down into the drain and I can put a pipe wrench on it. Wiggle it back and forth till something turns. The plastic is stronger then the cross pieces in the drain and will break out if too much pressure is used.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:42 AM   #11
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A direct replacement for the drain piece is a bar sink drain. I got mine at Lowes. The old one did crank out as described above.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:02 AM   #12
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Congrats on your purchase! I have removed mine too easiest part was the drain as for the pipe I cut it out see my thread caravel with issues. My black tank was caved in and there was a few escape holes in the floor. Plan on using ours in aug but for now we still have to get the shell off! Do you have pictures of the top side of the caravel?
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:12 AM   #13
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Stephan do your self a favor and take out your ladder and LOOK at the plumbing vent on the top of your caravel. If there is a crack or line at the base of the vents (both sides) get some epoxy at the hardware store and paint the epoxy around the base of the vent outside as those cracks will leak which was the second reason for the renovation. Both of mine were cracked and they are out of stock and have been for months.
Cliff
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:24 AM   #14
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Nobody has responded to your proposed fix to the frame work.. Something along those lines is what came to mind immediately. If in doubt.. or for a professional second opinion.. clean up the area, so you can see exactly the extent of damage, then call up a good trailer shop and ask them for a second opinion or their idea of a fix.. They will likely say weld.. as thats what they do.. and would probably fix it for you for $50. Looks like you may need to get the tub drain out of the way first. That will show you the bottom side of the tub and the piece you are trying to reseal.. I believe you can buy a tool from the home depot that is designed to pull those.. special wrench. Mine came right out.. Yours may be stubborn as you have had leaks in that area.. maybe rusted. Dont fret.. Very minor fixes here.

Jason
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