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Old 11-08-2015, 10:08 AM   #15
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1987 32' Excella
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You may want to try using some Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:40 AM   #16
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1972 31' Sovereign
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felton , California
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a/c leak point ?

any clue where rain water drains from a/c unit ? i'm going to cover up the vent hole and see if that has any effect ...
even though i thought a waste of time, sealed along the awning rail ..

cheers everyone, thanks for the advice !
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Old 11-09-2015, 12:44 PM   #17
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any clue where rain water drains from a/c unit ? i'm going to cover up the vent hole and see if that has any effect ...
even though i thought a waste of time, sealed along the awning rail ..

cheers everyone, thanks for the advice !
The AC "should' drain the 'condensate' through a plastic tube run through the wall, between the roof and ceiling... if you remove your inside panel covering the AC you should see the 'drain line'...

Since it is inside the walls, it is unlikely it is causing a roof leak...

It is possible the seal between the roof and AC is leaking tho..
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:54 PM   #18
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1972 31' Sovereign
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Consider getting a "leak test".. They pressurize inside then put soap solution on exterior.. Watch for bubbles! If you pressurize yourself, get a gallon of cheap "soap bubbles"'from a Dollar store and use it.. Generates best bubbles!
that would be quiet a challenge i think ... every window, all the exterior storage bins, air vents, door etc etc would have to be sealed off tight first ! i've heavily sprayed down the entire area again, including roof & A/C fan area .. nothing

there must be a structural rail in between outer & inner skins right above the window as rivets run the length of the trailer, i'm thinking water is being caught by this rail and then runs to an exit point which then finds it's way out above the window frame..
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:13 PM   #19
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that would be quiet a challenge i think ... every window, all the exterior storage bins, air vents, door etc etc would have to be sealed off tight ..

I did a redneck pressure test on our 34' and didn't seal off anything. Bubbles showed up at all of the leaks even though there were lots of normal places for air to leak out. I didn't even close off the stove vent, it was wide open and there was enough air blowing out to move my hair!
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:36 PM   #20
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I am a roofing and waterproofing contractor by trade. I can tell you that water does some incredible things that sometimes defies gravity. I've seen water travel laterally on a vertical surface and even travel as much as 8 feet on the underside of horizontal surfaces, when it was flowing down a connected vertical surface. That said it would help to think of leak problems as having multiple potential sources beyond the most obvious. I have not yet "waterproofed" my 60 Traveler, but have noticed several areas in the outer skin seams where irregular voids and bulges in the seams overlapping joints are evident, and several poorly applied light fixtures and other outer skin penetrations. Remember, while your driving 65mph in a rainstorm those old rotted rubber gaskets on the base of the exterior lights are useless.

What you should do is NEVER trust any rubber gasket component of anything attached to the outside of your trailer that penetrates through the skin. I would discard the rubber and seat everything in a thick 1/4" round continuous bead of Vulkem polyurethane rubber, and seal the back side of the rivets you use to attach it to the shell. Yes this will cause a mess, but the displaced caulking will both ooze out of the joint to seal the unseen union points and be easily cleaned from the joint you can see on the exterior surfaces. I would use a plastic putty knife to remove most of the ooze from the exposed messy joint, making sure to scrape most of the sealant off before carefully cleaning the rest off with mineral spirits.

Finally, if you have leaks then it makes sense to seal the back side of the rivets and seams. This means removal of interior skins in some cases, but to my mind that is the only way to make sure you get every single one.

I will be posting the seam sealing to my blog in a few weeks at:
http://TheAdventuresOfFlyingToaster.wordpress.com
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:52 PM   #21
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thanks Bob, great advice. I'm going to try the leaf blower method this weekend and see what I can see ! I've just replaced the exterior driving lights and sealed the screw holes and around the wires. Leak has got to be coming in from rivets or seams up top, I'll be starting there. PO and my inspector failed to mention / see that some panels may have been damaged / replaced as I've noticed some pop rivets heads down one side of the trailer too ... so need to check those for leaks, I got a simple suction cup, it actually seems to work!!

cheers
nick
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