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Old 04-17-2012, 07:39 AM   #1
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1975 27' Overlander
Elkton , Maryland
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Test? repair or replace

My questions to all of you guru's is I have a 1975 overland with all original systems. The battery and univolt have been removed by PO (no battery). I would like to test all the systems to see what works and what dose not. how can I do this safely and are there items that are just not worth the effort AKA the univolt it seems is a replace item. I would like to keep as much of the gear original for price and authenticity as I can. The PO had started to do some repairs and only got to the dismantling stage so there are copper lines cut and removed from the belly I believe these are water lines. The two waste tanks have also been removed.

Items I would like to test. AC unit, furnace, water heater,oven, range, fridge, vent fans,

I do plan on doing a full monty to address frame and floor issues so I don't want to do a lot of repairs just to dismantle in a few weeks can these items be tested independently once out?

sorry this is such a long question. I am so excited about starting the project but don't want to get ahead of myself.
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:12 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkrukosky View Post
My questions to all of you guru's is I have a 1975 overland with all original systems. The battery and univolt have been removed by PO (no battery). I would like to test all the systems to see what works and what dose not. how can I do this safely and are there items that are just not worth the effort AKA the univolt it seems is a replace item. I would like to keep as much of the gear original for price and authenticity as I can. The PO had started to do some repairs and only got to the dismantling stage so there are copper lines cut and removed from the belly I believe these are water lines. The two waste tanks have also been removed.

Items I would like to test. AC unit, furnace, water heater,oven, range, fridge, vent fans,

I do plan on doing a full monty to address frame and floor issues so I don't want to do a lot of repairs just to dismantle in a few weeks can these items be tested independently once out?

sorry this is such a long question. I am so excited about starting the project but don't want to get ahead of myself.
You will need a charged battery in order to test the water pump, the furnace, the lights, fans and brakes.

City power will be needed to check out the AC, and the reefer on AC.

The water heater, reefer and stove and oven can be checked out with just LPG.

Andy
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:16 AM   #3
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Do you have propane tanks? Are they full and connected? Are there any leaks?

You'll need propane to test the stove, oven, furnace, water heater, and fridge. You'll also need a 12 volt supply to test the furnace, water heater, fridge, and vent fans (assuming that both the fridge and water heater have circuit boards).

Do you still have the 12 volt fuse panel? I hope so - that will make testing easier.

Do you know where the old battery used to be connected? If yes, then buy a 30 amp in-line fuse and connect the battery to the wiring harness where the old battery used to be using the in-line fuse on the positive wire as an extra safety measure. Connect the positive terminal on the battery to the fuse, and then connect the other end of the fuse to the positive wire that feeds the fuse panel. Connect the negative terminal on the battery to the white wire where the old battery used to be connected.

If you do not have the fuse panel, but a bunch of wires, then I would wait until you start pulling stuff apart to test things. Then you'll know exactly what wire goes where. You can hook up the battery to each item, one at a time, and test it to see if it works.

Depending on the model of your fridge, it may ran on 110 VAC as well as propane. Easy to tell from the front - look for a switch that says AC and Gas, or AC and Auto. If there is no switch like that, then you may have a fridge that only runs on propane, and it may not even require 12 VDC. Pictures would help.

On the roof a/c, is the original shore power cord and breaker box all still intact? If yes, then you should be able to plug the trailer into shore power and test the a/c and the fridge on AC as well. And your 110 VAC outlets. But be careful here - if the power cord, breaker box, or any of the 110 VAC wiring looks like it's been messed with by the PO, best to NOT plug the trailer in until you're sure it's safe.

To test the a/c, be sure to plug the shore power cord into at least a 20 amp outlet. Preferably not a GFCI protected outlet. A 30 amp RV outlet would be ideal, but I'm guessing you probably don't have one of those handy... To use a 20 amp outlet, you'll need a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter for the shore power cord.

The safest things to test yourself are the 12 VDC items. Especially if you and inline fuse on the battery. Worse case there is you blow the fuse if something is shorted out.

If the 110 VAC was messed with, you run the risk of getting shocked when you plug the trailer in. Again, if you're not sure, have someone that knows RV electrical systems check it out.

The propane system is another risk if you're not sure it doesn't leak. In your age trailer, both propane and water use copper lines. Propane should be flexible copper, while the water lines should be hard copper. But, if the PO messed with both systems, you may have propane lakes or even cut propane lines. Propane lines run under the trailer (below the belly skin). from the main line, there will be tees to the branch line, and maybe even shut-off valves. From the tee or shutoff valve, the propane flexible copper line runs up through the belly pan and floor to the appliance. There should not be any connections in the propane line once it enters the belly pan until it reaches the appliance.

Not trying to scare you - just making you aware of the risks involved. Pictures would help us help you figure out if something is safe or not.

Chris
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:03 AM   #4
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The copper lines attached to the bottom of the trailer are the propane lines not water lines. Before testing items that use propane you will need a regulator along with the appropriate connections to the tank(s). All propane lines should be connected to the appliance they serve and tested for leaks. Each appliance should have a valve to shut the gas off. These valves should be on the exterior or the trailer, usually on the belly pan near each appliance. Refers don't have a shut off valve in a lot of cases.
If the water lines which are all in the interior of the trailer show signs of being frozen. I would replace all of them with PEX.
If you don't plan on traveling with the trailer for some time. Don't buy a battery, it will just deteriorate with age. You can test all of the 12 volt devices and lights using a battery charger with a 6 amp minimum capacity. Of course you could buy a new converter along with a fuse panel and install it. Then identify each DC wire and connect them. All of the exterior lighting can be checked with the battery charger. You can use an extension cord to power the battery charger or even the converter until you get the 120 volt electrical system checked out.
It is very important that the 120 volt AC electrical system be thoroughly checked out before plugging the trailer in to shore power. There are three components to this system, the hot leg, the neutral and earth ground. All three need to be connected correctly for safety reasons. Do not plug the trailer in to shore power until you are sure it us safe. There are plenty of folks here that can help you with the checkout.
The air conditioner will have to wait until you get the shore power connected.
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:45 AM   #5
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1975 27' Overlander
Elkton , Maryland
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ok here are the photos I have so far.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1114137...CI6i3sT70PDYHQ
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