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Old 05-09-2013, 08:07 PM   #15
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As fantastic as Airstreams are, there is perfection in nothing. Maintenance is key.
This, and the fact that people don't seek out the forum to report "My trailer has not leaked in years. I feel so left out."

People with trailer problems have more reasons to start a forum thread, so the problems are over represented.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:12 PM   #16
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I think if you have an experienced Airstream owner and a top notch mechanic that KNOWS Airstreams you would have a good chance on minimizing many of the headaches along the way. I know my 1975 had at least 3 owners, the last one was clueless on how to maintain an AS. They kept it at a campground at the beach and stored it down there too. Most of their "repairs" involved large quantities of silicone caulk and dry wall screws. Eventually I will get rid of all of them.

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Old 06-19-2013, 08:26 PM   #17
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Hello,
We have a new 2013 28' Flying Cloud, and my husband and I want to make sure we do everything we can to make it always look the best it can be.

Can someone give me some quick tips on how to use the two products mentioned here? Boeshield and CorrosionX.

Are both products needed? If so, which is used where?

How does one go about "spraying the underside" of an Airstream? Is there room under there to spray it?

I really appreciate any help you can give me.

Thank you!!
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:52 PM   #18
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Did you reseal it your selves? How? Lessons learned?
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:22 PM   #19
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We are new owners of a used ('08) 19' Safari Bambi, and wondering how do you run the heat from gas to electric? Does it automatically flip?
Also, about the battery disconnect switch, the light stays on if it's pressed for either "use" or "store". Is this normal?
We are trying to reach the people we bought the unit from, but can't reach them yet. Maybe someone in this forum can answer me?
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:24 PM   #20
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time2play...my wife and I will get our new unit in less than 6 weeks now :O

Others on here had also advised about anti-corrosion methods....that thread is LONG, I spents about 3 years reading through it all (well, not quite that long) and it helped...

Folks told me the boeshield T9 product is sprayed only for the underbelly...it goes on and forms a very wasy cover...

The corrosion X product you put on any area that was cut or penetrated by JC....all seams, rivents, on metal parts....I *THINK* - it pretty much sprays on (doesnt take much I hear) then wiped off (what do you all use to wipe it off btw?)

We will be going to the beach 1-4 times per year so when I go I will likely be obscessive about rinsing with freshwater while there and applying these treatments

------

I told my wife that I will simply have to assume that I WILL have various problems despite our best efforts....this to not be too upset when the leaks or whatever happen...

It looks more and more like I will have to wait to have the pole barn built till spring...no biggie though...definately want it though....
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:27 PM   #21
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some have also advised buying a clear coat product and applying it using a small brush to edges that were cut from day 1...seems a reasonable thought in my view.

I have yet to buy a moisture detector...need to though in prep

In reading the leaking and floor rot horror stories...you just DONT want to be the new owner that never catches the presence of the moisture and then find the rot months or soon after the 2 yr warranty expires :/
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:11 AM   #22
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Okay - it isn't so. The thing most of the problematic units have in common? They're old.
After reading this board that theory won't hold water either....new ones seem to leak the worst.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:14 AM   #23
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Maybe someone in this forum can answer me?
Ask your question in the proper section and I'm sure you'll get plenty of answers.
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:15 AM   #24
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time2play...my wife and I will get our new unit in less than 6 weeks now :O
Wanna bet it leaks ?
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:59 AM   #25
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It is a "relationship".

Trade out/up within a month of warranty expiration...? Nah.. That's for some, not most here.

When it leaks, have it fixed or learn to do it yourself...

In my 1999 there were leaks. I fixed. The toughest was repair of floor with some marine epoxy. The leak was on roof seam, curbside front. Window and door gaskets expired.. Barely flex.

After repair?

I have 6 months, 5500 miles, 800+ in rain without leak reappearing.

Yours will leak.. It won't sink or rot with proper action on your part.

You can do this...

Of course, I prefer fixing broken to just replacing... In life, relationships...some things are worth the effort.
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Old 09-24-2013, 08:47 AM   #26
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A calendar schedule is the long term way to go. New owner enthusiasm fades for us all . . and keeping it under cover trumps any other approach so as to make the laborious work almost beside the point. Yes, it may leak (corrode, etc), but the damages -- if any -- will be caught early (calendar) and without much overall work (due to cover) in the years ahead.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:30 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by LFC View Post

After reading this board that theory won't hold water either....new ones seem to leak the worst.
I've never chimed in on the leak problem because my 2012 purchased new doesn't have them. That's part of the challenge when sifting through forums like this. I personally am more inclined to share a problem to work on a solution than I am to repeatedly say "still love my trailer" (which I do) or "still not leaking" (which it isn't). I have no way of knowing whether that tendency holds true for any, some, most, all forum members but let's at least acknowledge that the complaints aren't meant to be a statistically valid source of data :-)

Having said that, when you ARE the statistic, whether that happens to 0.01% or 99.9% of all owners, it's a big deal and needs to be addressed.

Life is messy and imperfect. Buying new gives you 2 years of warranty time to address leaks and any other defects (if you have them). Eventually, they all get older and - if we're fortunate - receive a pounding from all those miles we get to put on them :-) ... then it's a full on maintenance opportunity :-)

Could AS do better? Who couldn't? It's counterintuitive but improving quality could actually enable them to LOWER overall costs (waste, rework, warranty repairs, time addressing dissatisfied customers, etc.) which in turn could potentially lower PRICES and increase SALES (price sensitivity/supply & demand) and PROFITS. It's not quite this simplistic, but Toyota listened to Demming and at one point became larger than GM (who together with the other 2 didn't understand the point he was making). And those units AS sold to China? Watch out! South Korea (Hyundai) leapfrogged years of R&D and experience and eventually produced a VERY compelling product rivaling the Big 4 (including Toyota) in quality for a lower price and better warranty that their customers don't need to invoke as much!

Well enough of the junior MBA class on stats, marketing and economics :-). I'm still loving my trailer which thankfully isn't leaking yet and am genuinely sorry for those whose experience isn't that good. Frustrating that it isn't more consistent across the board...
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beckster53 View Post
We are new owners of a used ('08) 19' Safari Bambi, and wondering how do you run the heat from gas to electric? Does it automatically flip?
Also, about the battery disconnect switch, the light stays on if it's pressed for either "use" or "store". Is this normal?
We are trying to reach the people we bought the unit from, but can't reach them yet. Maybe someone in this forum can answer me?
Hey Beckster53 - this is a bit of a hijack of the original intent of the question about leaks so a very quick response...

If by gas to electric heat you mean heating via propane vs heating with the air consitioner's heat exchanger, that is not an automatic switchover. If you're plugged in to shore power AND have propane, you can choose either option by selecting it from the thermostat panel.

Re: the use/store light - it's confusing but yes, it's normal if you're plugged in to shore power. If you're not plugged in and switch it to store, the light will go off.

Did you get a manual with the trailer? If not, try the Airstream website to download one. Then here in the forums, try to search for existing threads that may have already addressed your question. You may find a lot of helpful info and see answers to questions before you post them. That's the reason why I mentioned this is a bit of a "hijack" of the intent of the leak question. 10 years from now when someone searches for "leak" this discussion won't help them :-)

Hopefully it's of some help to you now. Good luck!

Now back to the thread :-)
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