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Old 04-23-2017, 05:16 PM   #1
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1972 27' Overlander
houston , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 13
Suspending the water tanks

Advice needed, please! I am a total greenhorn in the middle of a shell off restoration. I've got the new wheels and axles on, the frame has been welded and reinforced appropriately. now I'm ready to place my water tanks in the frame so that we can put the sub floor on. I had water tanks built to fit in the space for the previous fresh water tank but I misjudged and didn't allow for the vents, so I've got about 2 inches that I need to adjust for. They are too tall- they interfere with the subfloor. should I have a box welded to the bottom of the frame to drop them into or will dropping them with straps be sufficient?
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:13 PM   #2
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What kind of tanks are they? Does the manufacturer require them to be fully supported?
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:31 PM   #3
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
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Pictures please. Pictures would be helpful. I "hung" new waste water tanks in my 66 Trade Wind project.

Take a look at about any modern Airstream. The water tanks are close to the axles and below the subfloor. There is usually a "pan", or tank cover, that is bolted to the frame that protects the tanks. In some cases, the "pan" supports the weight of the full water tank.

You tanks need to be vented of course else they will not drain very good. And the drain lines to the tanks have to be vented somehow too our sinks won't drain very well.

And give every consideration to providing heat to your water tank bay like Airstream does. Heated tanks are important for cold weather camping.

Here are some photos of my waste water tanks that I hung on angle irons bolted to the frame. And here are photos of the tank pan I had made to protect and heat the tanks. It is bolted to the frame and hangs about 4" below the belly pan. Also is a photo of the fresh water tank from our 86 that is totally supported by the steel pan bolted to the frame. It hangs about 4" below the belly pan.

Hope I helped a bit.

David
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:13 PM   #4
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1972 27' Overlander
houston , Texas
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They are 3/8" thick hard plastic. I don't know mfgr specs but i will call him tomorrow.
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:17 PM   #5
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1972 27' Overlander
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I was wondering if bolting angle iron would be sufficient. I really didn't want to remove the belly so it could be welded again. Thank you!
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Old 04-24-2017, 03:28 PM   #6
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2012 23' FB International
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Airstream tanks are usually held up by galvanized steel boxes screwed to the frame. They are also usually lined with Styrofoam, in part for insulation and in part to protect the plastic from wearing on the sheet metal.
SO; your idea to use a box and drop them is exactly what AS does. I doubt very much that you can strap a plastic tank without the straps cutting through the plastic at some point in time.
JCW
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Old 04-24-2017, 03:32 PM   #7
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1972 27' Overlander
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Thank you for your input. I am going back to the welder to build the box for the tanks
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:02 PM   #8
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
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You gotta kinda think like an engineer in such a large project. Every object you install has to have an overall plan on how it will integrate with the next object.

I'm sure you have a rather detailed sketch of your overall renovation plan.

For example, toilet placement affects tank placement, affects door clearances, affects shower placement (if), and then the vanity, sink plumbing and drains, and on and on. It sounds like the belly pan went on before the tanks were mounted. I see some "ports" to your new tanks but how will they be accessed with plumbing through the floor. And the all important holding tank drain manifold with dump valves and protective box should be part of your design. Will you drain your tanks out the side of the trailer like many do. How will you get under the frame rail?

I can't remember how many "do overs" I had with my rather simple Trade Wind bathroom rebuild project. My plans were not good enough to avoid this. But when I was done, the bath looked kinda, sorta like my plan. However, I can't for the life of me remember why I thought a small shower was important. It is a waste of valuable floor space. Got dirty hiking? Go jump in the lake. Done.

But most importantly, have fun doing it. I thoroughly enjoy working on old Airstream trailers.

David
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:38 PM   #9
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1972 27' Overlander
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Thanks, David. We do have a very detailed drawing of what we want it to look like, with overlays of the frame, plumbing and electrical systems, as well as the interior cabinets/ walls. To start we didn't have much to work with. Nothing to use as templates or guides, as it was gutted and rusted. We have been going slow, trying to rethink every aspect-- its a big project for two 60-ish women but we're having alot of fun building it. We decided to move the bathroom to the center and put the bedroom in the back, and use a composting toilet. we're using gray and freshwater tanks only and i forgot to allow for the vents in my tank drawings. So, its back to the welder tomorrow. Thank you for your input. We are having a great time working on this old trailer!
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:14 AM   #10
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I bolted angle iron to the frame with bolts, nuts and lockwashers. Applied locktite to the bolt threads, because I had to put the nuts on the bolts from underneath. Just want to make sure those nuts don't come off. Used plenty of bolts.

The tanks protrude down through the belly pan. Riveted some 3003 aluminum sheet strips to the adjoining belly pan, and riveted the aluminum strips to a piece of aluminum angle, which I attached to the tank sides. Use some really good adhesive to attach the angle to the tanks. You'll have a nice tight installation.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:09 AM   #11
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1972 27' Overlander
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Thank you!
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:46 AM   #12
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1955 22' Safari
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Photos?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmuinch View Post
I bolted angle iron to the frame with bolts, nuts and lockwashers. Applied locktite to the bolt threads, because I had to put the nuts on the bolts from underneath. Just want to make sure those nuts don't come off. Used plenty of bolts.

The tanks protrude down through the belly pan. Riveted some 3003 aluminum sheet strips to the adjoining belly pan, and riveted the aluminum strips to a piece of aluminum angle, which I attached to the tank sides. Use some really good adhesive to attach the angle to the tanks. You'll have a nice tight installation.
Would love to see what you have done.
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:40 PM   #13
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Two 60 ish women beat one 70 ish man any day of the week! A center bath is great since you are starting with a blank canvas. The 70s trailers seem more prone to frame rust than other years. The frame, subfloor and shell are the key members of the Airstream "semi monocoque" construction.

I've seen center baths with a toilet room and vanity on one side and a shower room on the other side of the center aisle. Working around the darn wheel wells is a challenge.

You already know it takes much more time to put the trailer together than it does taking it apart.

Maybe you would like to start a "full monty" thread in the Airstream Knowledge Base in the 72 Overlander. Folks would be interested and helpful in your project. Many have successfully gone where you two are going. They can help show the way. The Overlander was one of Airstream's most popular models.

David
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