Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-09-2016, 05:49 PM   #1
BradT
 
2007 28' Safari SE
Milton , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 35
Stripped stabilizer bolt

When inspecting my 2007 Safari 27 FB I found the right rear stabilizer was loose. The stabilizer is normally fastened with 2 bolts near the curb and one bolt toward the center-line of the trailer. I found the single bolt toward the center-line was missing, and the stabilizer was hanging down about 1/2 an inch where the bolt was missing.
I found that the hole where the bolt goes is completely stripped out. A correct sized replacement bolt will not engage at all. The underbelly skin prevents any access to add a nut and washer so the bolt could tightened up.
Does anybody have experience with a repair that doesn't involve cutting an access opening in the underbelly skin? Perhaps drilling and tapping for a larger sized bolt might work, but I do not know what the structure looks like to determine if there is enough metal to support a larger bolt.
Thanks!

Brad
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2016-4-9 AS Stabilizer bolt.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	177.6 KB
ID:	260285  
__________________

__________________
bradt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 06:11 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,709
Surprising that yours look as rusty as mine!

I live in Canada where a lot of road salt is used and figured that was the cause in my case!

Just two weeks ago in Asheville NC I had one of the rusty brace bolts bust off when I canked the stablizer down with a drill. Luckily that was an easy fix and I went around all of them with some WD-40 release spray to try and avoid repeats!

In your case, I would be inclined to have a try with the appropriate drill and tap for the next size up - not much to lose!

If that didn't work, what about cutting out the belly pan in that area and then you could fix thngs one way or another if only maybe with a nut and bolt I would think.

You could then just pop rivet a patch plate over the access area you had created. I think that would be my approach

But maybe others will have smarter ideas! I doubt you are the first with this problem to solve! One of the great things about this forum!

Brian.
__________________

__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2016, 12:58 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
drboyd's Avatar

 
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,428
Either drill and tap or use a 1/4 x 20 Riv-nut
__________________
"Between what matters and what seems to matter, how should the world we know judge wisely?" - E.C. Bentley, Trent's Last Case
drboyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2016, 01:20 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 7,269
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 51
Hi, my stabilizers did that several years ago. I drilled 1" holes in the belly pan near the stripped holes. I installed nuts and bolts instead of the self tappers. The 1" hole leaves just enough room to slide the boxed end of a wrench in the hole with a nut held in place with putty or tape. This will hold the nut in place until you get it all tight. Mine never came loose again. I covered the holes with small pieces of duct tape.
__________________
Bob

2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent"
[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2016, 05:02 PM   #5
BradT
 
2007 28' Safari SE
Milton , Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 35
Thanks for the ideas!

Thank you for your ideas to repair the stabilizer bolt. I decided to go ahead and cut a hole with a 1-3/8 hole saw next to the bolt location. I drilled out the stabilizer hole to 3/8" and inserted a bolt with washer and locking nut on the inside. Taped the nut onto my box end wrench, inserted it thru the access hole, and it worked great. Tightened up and will be very secure.
To cover the hole, I put silicone around the hole, a little patch of aluminum, and pop rivets.
First time to cut into the belly pan. Probably not the last!
Thanks again for your ideas.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2016-4-18 Stabilizer bolt repair.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	155.8 KB
ID:	260965  
__________________
bradt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2016, 06:24 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
blkmagikca's Avatar

 
1987 32' Excella
Nepean , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,133
bradt - silicone is acid-based, and will damage the aluminum. The sealant of choice is Vulkem (Acryl-R).

See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ry-116214.html
__________________
VE3JDZ
AIR 12148
1987 Excella 32-foot
1999 Dodge Ram 2500HD Diesel
blkmagikca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2016, 06:27 PM   #7
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkmagikca View Post
bradt - silicone is acid-based, and will damage the aluminum. The sealant of choice is Vulkem (Acryl-R).

See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ry-116214.html
The new approved sealant for Airstreams is Adseal, which is silicone.

https://store.airstream.com/product/...m-sealant-kit/
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2016, 11:04 PM   #8
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar
 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,935
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
The new approved sealant for Airstreams is Adseal, which is silicone.

https://store.airstream.com/product/...m-sealant-kit/
I am using Adseal now... Where I have used it, there have only been a few separations... Most likely due to poor prep "my fault most likely"...
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2016, 07:31 AM   #9
retired USA/USAF

 
2001 30' Excella
Somerset , New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,157
I thought that silicone base and was a NO NO around aluminum ???? Has something been done to make it appropriate for our usage ??
__________________

__________________
Roger in NJ

" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948

TAC - NJ 18

polarlyse is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Leveling Jack End Bolt Stripped tarh2o Jacks, Stabilizers, Lifting and Leveling 10 12-04-2013 06:26 AM
BAL stabilizer bracket bolt stripped SeymourAC Jacks, Stabilizers, Lifting and Leveling 12 06-24-2013 07:39 AM
Stripped lug bolt holes chris's 67 Wheels, Hubs & Bearings 3 03-30-2008 06:27 PM
can a 92 limited classic be stripped and polished? 0557 Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 6 02-23-2004 10:14 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.