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Old 08-13-2013, 01:48 PM   #1
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Stove-Top Burners

Either Maytag/Amana (no name to be found--presume Amana) Mdl # Alz 9520 ADS, range top for rec vehicle. Three burner, 2 burners light with electronic igniter; third will light with match--no spark detected to burner. Book says repair had to be done by qualified tech. Repair seems as though it would be a simple fix to me (if I knew how). Ya think a tech is required or is there another way? Thanks
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:16 PM   #2
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The sparker sends the voltage through 3 separate wires to the electrode at each burner. If 2 work, the sparker is not the issue. The wires just plug into the sparker. Pull the one off to the non-igniting burner and test continuity from one end to the electrode at the burner. Should be very low resistance.

If open, replace the wire and electrode. Check for food grime in the gap between the electrode and the burner. Check the terminal end to sparker for corrosion and tight fit.

edit: In addition, the electrode end is held in place by 2 screws. Take them out, snake the white ceramic insulator out of the burner housing and inspect CLOSELY for cracks. Any crack will allow the spark to bleed off before reaching the electrode and burner, resulting in no gas ignition. Just like a cracked spark plug insulator.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:12 PM   #3
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Thanks for fast reply. I will check as soon as the sun goes down just a tad. I do not believe I have ever experienced such heat/humidity---and I am originally from Kansas. Thanks again. Tom
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
The sparker sends the voltage through 3 separate wires to the electrode at each burner. If 2 work, the sparker is not the issue. The wires just plug into the sparker. Pull the one off to the non-igniting burner and test continuity from one end to the electrode at the burner. Should be very low resistance.

If open, replace the wire and electrode. Check for food grime in the gap between the electrode and the burner. Check the terminal end to sparker for corrosion and tight fit.

edit: In addition, the electrode end is held in place by 2 screws. Take them out, snake the white ceramic insulator out of the burner housing and inspect CLOSELY for cracks. Any crack will allow the spark to bleed off before reaching the electrode and burner, resulting in no gas ignition. Just like a cracked spark plug insulator.
I agree for the most part. However the spark module (sparker) could be the problem as it has 3 outputs and my be only sending to 2. it could also be a switch.

There are 3 components making up the top burner spark ignition. A switch, a module, and an electrode. In you case you have 3 switches, 3 electrodes and 1 spark module.

Here's how it works. When you turn the burner knob to the "lite" position, the switch is closed giving a path of current to the spark module. The module then produces 15,000 pulsating DC volts sending it out to all 3 electrodes. (don't let the voltage scare you. It is only 3-4 milli amps. If you were to put your finger on the electrode it would only feel like someone stuck you with a pin).
So to troubleshoot, if you turn on burner 1, all three electrodes should be sparking not just burner 1. So if you turn on the burner that is not lighting and you see and hear sparking from the other two burners, it is not the switch. However if you turn on the burner that is not lighting and you don't see and hear sparking from any of the burners, it is that switch. If it is not the switch I would check the electrode going to that burner. Look at the burner end of the electrode. Like 'dznf0g' suggests check for a cracked ceramic insulator as well as cleanliness. The tip of the electrode needs to be clean as well as the target that the spark jumps to. One other way to check the electrode and check to see of it is the module at the same time is to swap the leads at the module. By this I mean, at the module, take one of the electrodes you know works and the one that doesn't. Unplug them from the module and switching places plug them back in. Then turning on the burner that did not light, if it sparks now the electrode is good and the module bad. If the same one still does not light it is the electrode that is bad.
Hope this helps.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:45 PM   #5
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Tiger, I think you are thinking of an "auto-spark-ignitor" like I have at home. My AS (and I assume Mocus' is like mine as mine was built in 06) has a separate ignitor knob from the burner knob. The ignitor is a twist to click, very much like a gas grill, except rotory and not push button. When you twist the sparker, all three burners spark, whether on or not the burner knob is on. I don't think there is any module nor switches in these simple units.
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:11 PM   #6
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Tiger, I think you are thinking of an "auto-spark-ignitor" like I have at home. My AS (and I assume Mocus' is like mine as mine was built in 06) has a separate ignitor knob from the burner knob. The ignitor is a twist to click, very much like a gas grill, except rotory and not push button. When you twist the sparker, all three burners spark, whether on or not. I don't think there is any module nor switches in these simple units.
I also assumed.
I looked up his model and found nothing. but did fine a ALZ8590ADB made by amana. That pilotless ignition is exactly like a full size home range.
So that is what I was going on.
If however his is like a gas grill ignition disregard my earlier post, unless you have a problem with your home gas range.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:33 PM   #7
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I have the unit Rich described. I was getting spark on 2 of the 3 burners. Reading the manual I decided not to go any further prior to checking with the experts. Guess what??? I lifted the cover, raised the burner cover to check your suggestions, and, there it was in plain sight....UNPLUGGED....Some day, hopefully, I will muster up enough nerve to trust my gut feelings. But until then, bear with me, please...

Tiger: I will keep your post for future reference.

Thanks to all...Tom
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