Starting Restoration - Need a Game Plan!

[JJJ76]

Hello all, time for introductions I guess…I’m about to dive into restoration of a ’76 Sovereign. This project started as my wife’s idea (Instagram’s fault I think), but I’m always up for a new project. I prefer to start them when the current one is 80% done, so the house renovations will just have to wait….
Anyway, the trailer…I think it’s in decent shape, but I’m not counting on it. No visible rot on the plywood (PO pulled up the floor) but the bath wasn’t pulled up. I have no idea what does or doesn’t work on the trailer.
So… I need a game plan! Any advice on where to start or what to make sure I do before starting? In particular regarding the mechanicals. I have solid diy skills but zero experience with RV systems. I fully expect to be removing the interior skins so I can reinsulate. I am sure at least portions of the floor will need to be replaced. Seems to me if I’m in that deep it would make sense to replace all the mechanicals, but maybe that’s unnecessary? If I am keeping anything, how do I test to see if it works?
I’d love to hear some thoughts or lessons learned. Thanks in advance…

[millertimeUS]

First thing first, check the floor esp in the rear for rot. Get under the rear bathroom cabinets and really look. Then drop the belly pan and check the frame out. My 76 frame was really really bad, hope yours is better. Worst spot will be the rear crossmember most likely if you have frame issues.

The belly pan is riveted on and might be pretty corroded in spots, drill those rivets and get the whole belly pan down and out of the way so you can really see the entire frame.

Much much more to do after that, but start there.

[Isuzusweet]

#1 Weigh your trailer at a CAT scale, total weight, tongue weight (just the tongue resting on scale) and each side weight (drive one side of axle on to scale).
#2 Get a blank note book and a cheap camera just for this renovation. You need to take pictures of everything, especially electrical connections.
#3 If you are replacing the interior, section off the trailer, left side, right side and four sections front to back and weigh everything that comes out of those sections.

The above will give you a base line on your trailer as it sits now. Renovating a trailer is more science than design. Whatever new weight you add (extra drawers, drawer slides, ceramic tile, yada, yada) to whatever section, you must remove that same weight in that section OR add weight to a different section to balance the trailer.

DO NOT, under any circumstances sell or throw out any interior pieces before the entire project is absolutely finished (even if you know you are replacing something with something new).

The rule of thumb I used with my interior renovation was very simple....if I couldn't replace a stock OEM item AS used with something lighter; that item stayed stayed! You'd be surprised at how hard it is to replace interior items with new that are as light or lighter than stock.

Cheers
Tony

[ttbikes]

Assuming you do not want to strip it completely down I would take some time to get to know the trailer. Think about how you plan to use your trailer. Go camping and see what you use most. I would not fix anything that is not broken but there are things where safety is a consideration. Gas leaks, carbon dioxide detector etc. are important. You will have plenty of things to spend money on. One of the first things I replaced was the furnace only to find I do not use it.
To start I would look for leaks first and fix those. Then go ahead and reseal every thing. Next I would look at the frame and axles.

If you are striping it down completely you will easily see what you have to do. Rules to follow are safety first, big to little, and if you fix the floor but not the leak you are spinning your wheels.

[Minno]

Take pictures of everything as you remove it, in place, and then what's there when you take it out. It will help as you renovate. We referred to those pictures many many times ( and sometimes still do) . Take pictures as you build too (especially electrical and plumbing). You will also refer to those pictures later. Seriously consider replacing axles. You will be able to rebuild with a little more weight if you want and have the trailer sit a little higher than it probably is now (good for backing up hills, etc.).
Seal leaks first. Pay attention to windows, rear light assemblies, and any roof extrusions like vents also.
You will probably want to take inner skins off to replace insulation and rewire. Any smell in your trailer currently will probably be removed with the insulation (ours was a mouse highway and storage facility, probably housing and nursery too).
Appliances are variable. New refrigerators are more energy efficient and spacious for the same footprint than the older ones. We replaced the furnace, as we use ours at times, and older ones are usually unsafe. We didn't have a stove either when we bought our trailer. Water heater is probably a replace item too.
I agree with not throwing pretty much anything away until you are well into or almost done with your reno. We pitched our cabinets as we were going with all new early on, but saved hardware and passed it on to others. Saved the wall extrusions, but should have saved the walls for patterns... you get the picture.
Finally, we suggest you read, read, read what others have done, trials and tribulations. It helped us immensely with our rebuild. And, post what you've done! We all love to read about it and SEE PICTURES, and you may help someone else!
Good luck! We did it with our house DIY skills, too.

Kay

[64airstream]

JJJ76,

Welcome to the forums. In my opinion you've taken the first and maybe most important step toward your project by joining the forums and starting to research. Our skill level was comparable to yours and we've now completed two trailers. The first was before we discovered Airforums, the second after. It has made a huge difference. From being able to find ideas and little improvements, to knowing which air conditioner to install, etc, comes from figuring out what the questions are and then finding who has already answered them and how they did it. The community here is excellent at providing help and opinions. Recognize, in advance, sometimes you'll get so many opinions that you're still undecided.

I agree with the advice offered, so far. You're "in discovery" and will find out much more as you progress. The floor and frame are a great place to start that discovery, because you want to build on a strong foundation. Your running gear (axles, wheels, tires, brakes, shocks...) are another important part of the foundation. As you move through discovery, think ahead so, for example, you don't replace the bearings and brakes, then decide on new axles (which can be ordered with new factory installed brakes and bearings, if desired. Before you begin to disassemble the appliances, you may be able to test some, depending on how intact the trailer systems are currently. If the electric system is intact (nothing loose or missing) you may want to plug it in and check the outlets, converter, DC lights, etc. The same is true for the fresh water system, propane system, and waste system(s). Don't proceed if there are wires hanging or open ended propane or water lines.

I would also offer, that, as you disassemble the cabinets, you will sometimes think you have removed all the fasteners, rivets, screws... and find the component doesn't come free when you give a good tug. You've probably still got another fastener holding you up. When you find it, there's probably still another one.

If you're interested, our first project is documented at 64airstream.com and our second project is documented here on the forums at https://www.airforums.com/forums/f39...er-155180.html

We wish you good luck and hope you enjoy the project part of this effort as much as we're sure you'll enjoy traveling in your trailer when it's done.

Keep us posted on your progress,
Roy and Marie

[JJJ76]

thanks for all the advice. I didn't mention that the interior is not very pleasant at the moment, using as-is not an option. straight to restoration. First tasks would be to remove the inner skins, and possibly some subflooring, and then assess further.

Anyone have suggestions for must-have tools and/or supplies for these first steps? best methods or order of attack?

[Hittenstiehl]

JJJ

If you think this project may take longer than expected, they all do.

If you think you might want to use it before you get it entirely finished.

We decided to make ours clean, safe and road worthy first. They make very nice tents during the renovation process. We have a comfortable futon, camping stove and table, yard table and chairs plus some solar lamps.

You will have loads of fun either way.

[Minno]

1/8 inch drill bits for the wall rivets - have multiples since they do break.
We used a dremel tool to cut off the tops of bolts for the floor. You need a power driver/screwgun also to back out screws in the C channel. We found many there. Just when you think you have them all....
End caps removal in our trailer were hard to control with one person. One was cracked, and we were able to get a new one, but I don't think they're available anymore. They're floppy, not rigid.
Face masks, long sleeves, gloves when removing stuff from the trailer.
A good rivet tool or two when you start to rebuild is a must. Lots of rivets in multiple sizes also. We bought our rivets on-line, rivet tool from Northern Tool. Also, our local Ace Hardware has many sizes of rivets but small numbers in a package- good in a pinch.
Vintage Trailer, Out of Doors Mart, Inland RV are all good places to get supplies on-line. Colaws Salvage in Missouri (also on-line) has parts sometimes from Airstreams they are parting out. Also, you can use the classified section of the Forums here to buy and sell parts.
We started disassembly at the front of our trailer ( already had most of the furniture out), and worked back to the rear bathroom. That went fast. Then inner skins (we rolled them up and secured with plastic wrap - the kind you use on carpet for storage). Then belly pan, and floor.
We found it was good to have 1 specific spot to keep everything in, so we weren't trying to remember where we left stuff as we worked. It took us 4 summers to get our trailer functional again. MN winters, and full time jobs really cut into our reno time! Several times we bought stuff (fortunately not expensive stuff) and then couldn't find it. I just came across the first set of curtain hangers we bought a few weeks ago....

Kay

[Jlutt]

Hi, I'm just starting my first restoration on my 1965 trailer that I plan on living in once finished. I'm working alone and I've decided to start with polishing (normally the last step, I know) so that I can get to work but make a game plan at the same time... just get my hands on the trailer while I think it out. And get the exterior work done before the Florida heat sets in.

How do you know when you need to replace your insulation? I've found a couple mouse nests in corners (no live animals thankfully) made from insulation. Other than that, how do I tell if I need to rip out my whole interior and add a huge next step to replace my insulation or just let it be and continue working on other things?

[ttbikes]

Originally Posted by Jlutt

Hi, I'm just starting my first restoration on my 1965 trailer that I plan on living in once finished. I'm working alone and I've decided to start with polishing (normally the last step, I know) so that I can get to work but make a game plan at the same time... just get my hands on the trailer while I think it out. And get the exterior work done before the Florida heat sets in.

How do you know when you need to replace your insulation? I've found a couple mouse nests in corners (no live animals thankfully) made from insulation. Other than that, how do I tell if I need to rip out my whole interior and add a huge next step to replace my insulation or just let it be and continue working on other things?

No definitive answer to this one. I will say that whenever I have taken off a panel the insulation has been fine. There is no organic material in the insulation so unless organic matter has been introduced is some other way rot is not a problem. I can also say in my case that insulation has stayed in place. You can improve the insulation if you have the panels off but I have found it not to be a priority.

[64airstream]

Jlutt,

We've kind of had similar experience, but when we have interior panels or sub-flooring removed for any other reason (like electrical work or access to the C-channel for a section of floor replacement), we replace the exposed insulation. We've been mostly using the green styrofoam type insulation as replacement. It has reasonably good R value and doesn't come apart over time. We score the inside radius at about 3/8 inch intervals and about 3/4 depth for the curved walls.

Good luck and enjoy your project,

Roy and Marie