Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-28-2019, 03:19 PM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 101
Splicing subfloor

Hey guys. I know I'm posting a ton and eventually I'll create my own trailer build thread.

I have my 76' Overlander stripped to the frame, cleaned, and about to POR15. I am doing a shell-on approach, but I was able to get all subfloor out intact. This will make tracing the new subfloor much easier.

At any rate, I read about people splicing their subfloor together. What is the best approach for this when someone is installing all new subfloor? Is there a preferred method for this?

I purchased the recommended self-tapping screws from Fastenal and stainless steel bolts / washers / nylock nuts for the perimeter / C-channel, for what it's worth.
__________________

JoleneAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 04:18 PM   #2
Rivet Master

 
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,032
There have been numerous comments on what some have done to keep the plywood joints in perfect alignment. When we adjusted the crossmembers on our chassis to accommodate the tanks, we adjusted to also accommodate the plywood joints. We also went a step farther and used a biscuit joiner and added biscuits on 12Ē centers along the butt joints. I glued the biscuits into one sheet but not the other so expansion wasnít compromised. Iím sure this was overkill, but it didnít take any time to do it. In your case, I would make me a dimensioned sketch of crossmember locations and hit spices on crossmembers where you can. Another simple way is to screw a 3/4Ē x 2Ē strip of plywood to the bottom of one sheet edge and set the other on top of the piece of strip hanging over the edge of the first sheet. You just donít want a spongy feel at the joints. Iím sure others will chime in with other suggestions. Good luck
__________________

Bubba L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 05:32 PM   #3
Dazed and Confused
 
Isuzusweet's Avatar

 
Currently Looking...
1983 31' Airstream310
Hillsburgh , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,625
When I did my Coosa subfloor I used a 3/4" half lap joint.

Set up router with a 3/4"x usually 1/2" cutter, with bottom bearing, (link below)

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/fre...set/1000407377

Cut just a hair over halfway into the edge of the sheet. You want the joint to be a hair under flush to allow for silicone or PL premium nails to be applied into the joint. The beauty about a half lap joint, is you only need one fastener to fasten both sheets, and the bottom half lap keeps the sheets flush, no matter what the frame is doing below; or will support the other sheet if crossing between frame supports.

In the photo below, you can see the half lap joint. Whenever I was joining sheets together over a frame, I would cut the sheet 3/8" longer than the center of the frame work, so my fastener would be into the center of the frame.
Notice the one line of fasteners attaching sheets to the frame below.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01751.jpg
Views:	22
Size:	220.2 KB
ID:	341940  
__________________
Per Mare, Per Terram and may all your campaigns be successful.

ďItís a recession when your neighbor loses his job; itís a depression when you lose your own.Ē "Harry S Truman"
Isuzusweet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 06:14 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 975
My 74 originally had plywood strips (7/16" maybe, not positive on the measurement) under each of the plywood seams, and the subfloor sections were screwed to those before being bolted down. The frame members at the joints were lower to accommodate these strips.

You can see the strips in the first photo of this post:
https://thegreatleys.com/journal/201...va?rq=Subfloor. Unfortunately I don't think I have a good photo of them put together.

Not sure if that's what Airstream did for your year, but I'd suggest just duplicating what was already there. If it lasted this long, it should work out fine.
TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 10:57 PM   #5
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 101
Is there any chance mine did not have any splice pieces? Each subfloor piece joined over the crossmember where a metal zigzag looking piece joined them together and then a bolt into the crossmember. Once I removed the bolts and cut out the zigzag pieces I was able to separate them. That said there were some old, barely distinguishable screws at the seams that didnít seem to screw into anything. The subfloor pieces donít look like they were routed at all to accommodate a splice and the crossmembers seem to sit pretty flush with the rest of the frame.

Iím still confused about how to squeeze in a splice when the frame and crossmembers are flush. Iím having trouble visualizing the recommendations by Bubba and Isuzu. :/

Thank you guys for the help!
JoleneAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2019, 11:31 PM   #6
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 101
Maybe this is kinda what is already being described but I was thinking of something. The original subfloor measures very close to 1/2Ē. I purchased 3/4Ē and will be routing down the entire perimeter to fit the c-channel. What if at the seams I routed the underside edge by 1/4Ē about 3Ē deep on both sides, then used 1/4Ē thick x 6Ē wide strips to span the width of the trailer and glued and screwed the subfloor into that. Does that make sense?

A crude drawing of what I mean.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	D1820D57-35A2-462A-8241-BBBD924A8D0F.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	148.7 KB
ID:	341992  
JoleneAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 08:34 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 11,412
Any time you want strength for assembling wood joints like this, it pays to take the time to use a good marine epoxy like the WEST products, and to pre-treat all the surfaces to be glued with a carefully-applied-thin-first-coat -- before assembly -- and letting that coat dry. Then sand it lightly.

When you assemble again with a fresh layer of epoxy, screw/clamp it all ASAP, and let everything cure for 24 hours without moving it, standing on it, etc..

"WEST epoxy" AirForums search results FYI:

https://www.google.com/search?q=WEST...com&gws_rd=ssl

Good luck,

Peter
OTRA15 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 10:13 AM   #8
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 101
Thank you kindly for the reply. I already have myself West epoxy and will be using it on all subfloor pieces (I even planned to pre-drill and pour a small quantity into holes where screws will go into the frame and through C-channel to help prevent rot in these areas.)

I'm still just having a difficult time mentally visualizing how people are making these splices. D'oh.
JoleneAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 10:23 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 11,412
It might also be a good idea to pre-coat all your ply/Coosa board subfloor sheet material with a thin coat of WEST applied with a roller, on both sides. If you also then coat all freshly cut edges with WEST, the possibility of rot is greatly reduced. Pre-coating plywood with WEST makes a great base for painting later, although that might not apply to an Airstream's subfloor.

Peter
OTRA15 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 03:42 PM   #10
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 101
Thanks, I do plan to use the West system on all pieces of wood and on all sides. Now I just need to figure out a good method for splicing.
JoleneAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 04:25 PM   #11
Dazed and Confused
 
Isuzusweet's Avatar

 
Currently Looking...
1983 31' Airstream310
Hillsburgh , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,625
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoleneAS View Post

Iím still confused about how to squeeze in a splice when the frame and crossmembers are flush. Iím having trouble visualizing the recommendations by Bubba and Isuzu. :/

Thank you guys for the help!
Just Google half lap joint

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint

The great thing about this joint is that you don't have to follow the framework. In my picture you'll notice I've laid the Coosa across the frame work, instead of with it. As I said the bottom part of the lap joint supports the top half; once you have an adhesive in the joint, it's not comng apart.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
__________________
Per Mare, Per Terram and may all your campaigns be successful.

ďItís a recession when your neighbor loses his job; itís a depression when you lose your own.Ē "Harry S Truman"
Isuzusweet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 04:39 PM   #12
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Just Google half lap joint

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint

The great thing about this joint is that you don't have to follow the framework. In my picture you'll notice I've laid the Coosa across the frame work, instead of with it. As I said the bottom part of the lap joint supports the top half; once you have an adhesive in the joint, it's not comng apart.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
Thanks much for the reply. I guess the part I don't understand is that the original subfloor pieces were 4' long, and I've purchased 4'x8' subfloor to replicate what was already in there. I get the idea of a half-lap, but I don't understand how to make the replacement sheets overlap if they are the exact length as previous? Or would I need to change the lengths of the sheets so that they no longer overlap the crossmembers?
JoleneAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 09:33 PM   #13
3 Rivet Member
 
1976 27' Overlander
Milwaukie , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 101
Looking at this thread, a spline joint sounds like it would make the most sense for me: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ed-142903.html

Given that I want the dimensions of my subfloor pieces to match the original and overlap over the existing, thin crossmembers, this would seem like a reasonable setup for me.

If there's any wood aficionado's out there, would be happy to hear about specific cut recommendations. If my wood is 3/4", I figure I'll make the spline a 1/4" and the depth 1" on each side for a 2" spline. Is this a reasonable setup?
__________________

JoleneAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Splicing Sub Floor on Frame Rail Acceptable? Venturewest Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 14 03-08-2018 09:53 AM
Splicing 12 AWG to 14 AWG question - help nocmanus Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 34 02-21-2017 05:30 PM
Subfloor Repair Steve Heywood Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 2 01-13-2006 07:10 PM
No subfloor? Over59 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 5 05-13-2004 06:41 PM
Sealing the Subfloor?(Pergo!) KingPing Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 4 02-12-2003 06:45 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
×